This also happens to me. I'm using RC2 and was splitting a STL that was too large for my build plate. I was unable to open the exported STL's that slic3r exported.by new to3Dbob - Slic3r
The only time I got jams that fast was with a big retraction, but I really didn't need so much since I'm not using a bowden.by new to3Dbob - General
I had this happen when my z axis wasn't level. One side was slightly higher than the other. Initially it would move but then just start to squeal as they moved more until eventually they wouldn't move at all and only squeal. It was only the slightest out of level and making it perfect made all the difference.by new to3Dbob - General
Interesting, I have burned jams out of my tip and heat break of the E3D a few times without it carbonizing. Maybe I will try boiling water next time, sounds like I have been lucky. So far the heat has just drawn the PLA to the end being heated and dripped out in a liquid like state onto the floor.by new to3Dbob - General
I currently print only with PLA using the E3D. I have had jheads as well and never had any issue with any of them, other that the cheap ebay ones.by new to3Dbob - General
I've had good luck with makergeeks PLA.by new to3Dbob - General
When I changed nozzles I removed the heat break and basically reassembled the whole nozzle for that reason. Not really much more work still only took a minute but without removing both you are right you don't know if the heat break moved.by new to3Dbob - General
A torch and .3mm wire cleaned the PLA out of my nozzle. Doesn't seem to be any negative affects by using the torch.by new to3Dbob - General
Wow, I can't imagine how it could get that hot. Mine is barly warm at the bottom fin. I had a jam during an overnight print and didn't notice until I checked on it the next morning. The drive gear stripped the filament trying to push it but nothing was blocked up near the heat sink. Maybe the fan stopped.by new to3Dbob - General
Agreed. I plan on eventually splicing a second fan in to be used for cooling the object. I plan on putting a manual toggle switch on this so I can turn it on or off at will. Still not ideal since I'll have to monitor the print at least until the first layer is printed.by new to3Dbob - Mendel90
So far I have just been using a fan blowing across the table to cool my PLA prints but I have seen a few ducts on thingiverse that supposedly will split the airflow and cool the hotend an the print at the same time. I will try one of these soon. I only print with PLA right now, the E3D is actually printing well for me, mostly. I went through several spools of filament and have had only a few jby new to3Dbob - Mendel90
This release definitley fixed a problem I was having with fully infilling very small areas. Same ini file used with both versions.by new to3Dbob - General
Mine fit really well into groove mount from hotends dot com.by new to3Dbob - General
Maybe you could try putting a fan setup on it similar to the E3D one. It directly only cools the top several fins but they all stay cool to the touch. I can print PLA consistantly without jamming. I never even tried ABS yet.by new to3Dbob - General
I would suggest getting a thermocouple. I bought a really cheap one since checking my hot end temperature was my only use for it. It reads within a few degrees of what my hot end is set at. The below link is the one I purchased.by new to3Dbob - Printing
Yes the backside of the tape is strong enough to keep the tape in place for quite a few prints. Occasionally a large object that is being stubborn to remove will pull the tape loose.by new to3Dbob - General
I'm using the blue painters tape with PLA. The parts stick so strong that I've broken some trying to pry them off. Every once in a while when my Z axis home position get a little to high I will get the symptoms you are describing. Make sure that your nozzle is close enough to the bed when homed.by new to3Dbob - General
I was in your situation about 6 months ago. I ended up buying the Rapidbot 3.0, the kit version . I don't have any expierence with any other printers but I can tell you a little about the Rapidbot 3.0. My kit was missing a few parts and my printrboard had a problem after a few prints. The company did send the missing parts and replace the printrboard. They were always promt in their replies.by new to3Dbob - General
Hello, My fan is mounted all the way at the bottom of the hotend, starting at the bottom cooling fin. I do not have a heated chamber. Perhaps hot was the incorrect word to use, it is by no means hot. What I should have said is, the bottom few fins are slightly warmer that the rest of the fins. I have since noticed a I had a slight bit of slippage between the filament and the drive gear. I hby new to3Dbob - General
Can anyone let me know how much retraction you are able to use sucessfully without any jamming. I can get up to .7mm and any more than that it jams some where around/in the nozzle. When this happens I am able to heat it up to a higher than printing temperature and unjam the nozzle so I do not know exactly where the jam is occurring but it is definitly in the melt zone somewhere. I was thinkiby new to3Dbob - General
Enlightx Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > what extruders are people using? as iv tried a few > now with J-Head mount and iv found the hot end > ends up at a slight angle. also its not very tight > in the extruder. so far iv tried missans i3 gregs > and also sgrabbers compact i3 extruder. > > Currently im running with an alu groove mount formby new to3Dbob - General
@uGen: I was able to get the slower print rate to print without clogging for around 15 minutes pretty consistently. Since the only change I made was the print speed I was just assuming that the filament was the source of the heat. I could be totally wrong and would love to hear other possible theories why increasing the print speed eliminated my jams. Bobby new to3Dbob - General
new to3Dbob Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hello, > I have been trying to get my E3D hotend to > print PLA without jamming with little success. I > have managed to get a couple of short prints to > complete but nothing longer than a half hour or > so. My hot end is jamming toward the top of the > hotend near the upper cooling fins. I'm nby new to3Dbob - General
I have been sucessful heating the end of a pin up until it is glowing red and pushing it in to the stuck filament. This softens up the filament which sticks better to the pin than the PTFE and usually pulls out when I remove the pin.by new to3Dbob - Mendel90
I did measure it. It was measuring between 1.7 and 1.76, obviously not that good but I wouldn't have thought it would get stuck. It tried pulling in it hard enough that the filament was breaking that's why I had to melt it out. I really would have liked to see what the filament looked like if I was able to get it out without melting it. Do you think that if the filament was out of round or toby new to3Dbob - General
Hello, I have been trying to get my E3D hotend to print PLA without jamming with little success. I have managed to get a couple of short prints to complete but nothing longer than a half hour or so. My hot end is jamming toward the top of the hotend near the upper cooling fins. I'm not sure why since nothing past the bottom 3 or 4 fins is hot. The only way I can unjam it is by melting the fiby new to3Dbob - General
Thanks. This was cheap filament and once its used up I will try a know better quality one.by new to3Dbob - General
My Filament came sealed in a resealable plastic bag with the desiccant packet. It was stored in the bag with packet when not printing. The filament absorbed the moisture I believe during several back to back several hour long prints. I was simply sharing sharing something that did work for me. So far no one was was able to answer my question as to how long out of the bag does it take to absorbby new to3Dbob - General
How long does it take for moisture to get into the pla? Is it hours or days. I have been doing some prints that lasted 7+ hours. A couple of those in a row and the pla is exposed for quite a while. It's not a matter of what it costs to store it it's just a matter of getting it stored in time I guess.by new to3Dbob - General
I had this exact same thing happen to my Z axis when I had a bad solder joint on a Y harness for the Z axis, I'm using a Printrboard. I looked up the RAMBo board and it looks like it has two seperate connectors for the Z axis motors so if they are both acting up this probably isn't the problem. I just though I'd tell you that a bad solder joint on a cable can produce the problem you are describby new to3Dbob - Reprappers