DeuxVis Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > You should probably not use different plastics for > the two gears. Hmm... May I ask you why?by Yamster - Reprappers
bernardis Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Using a separate power supply for the bed is easy > - at least with RAMPS. Just connect it to the 11A > connector on the RAMPS and you are done. I would assume that "11A connector" is one of two 12V connectors on RAMPS? Is there a label on the board indicating which one is this 11A connector and which one is thby Yamster - Reprappers
So, did you buy a fully assembled printer? I'm guessing this because you said your printer came with a 300 W PSU. What kind of printer is it? My printer uses RAMPS controller board, and as jbernardis has said, RAMPS takes two 12V power input. My PSU has two rails, but there was no indication which rail has how much wattage, so I just assumed the load is evenly distributed into each. Yes, bby Yamster - Reprappers
Haha.. feline intervention. Maybe you can train your cat to turn off printer for you when something goes wrong with printing while you are away. :p By the way, web cam monitoring is a good idea. I guess you must have some kind of home security/automation system? You know, so that you can also stop the printer by turning the power off when you see a problem.by Yamster - Reprappers
I've only used 3.00 mm filament. However, there seem to be a lot of good reason to use 1.75 mm filament: Then, would there be any reasons to use 3.00 mm filament (or not to 1.75 mm filament)? I think I read it somewhere that 1.75 mm are a bit more expensive (because it's easier/faster for manufacturers to extrude 3.00 mm filaments), but all the suppliers I have seen either had the same price fby Yamster - General
sheck626 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > That's pretty much why I don't like to do long > unattended prints. I can imagine all kinds of > failures that would end up much worse than what > happened to you. I cannot disagree or object to this at all. But then again, a lot of times I don't have any other choice but to do it. So far, this alien egg/tuby Yamster - Reprappers
I would try to extrude it at 180 C with relatively high feed rate, like 70+ mm/min. If it does not come out at all, or it comes out but there are some choke ups, irregularity, discontinuation, then it would be most likely ABS. Also, if the hobbed bolt (if your extruder uses a hobbed bolt) digs into the filament, then it's very much likely ABS - all PLA filaments I've used were pretty hard, thby Yamster - Reprappers
The white stuff is Teflon tape - I put layers of it around the nozzle head for insulation. There are a couple of things which caused this plastic "tumor" 1) On of the screws, which hold the heated bed down (I have spring suspensions between the heated bed and the bottom plate), came loose and completely got disengaged. This caused the heated bed to come up quite a bit and caused the hot end ruby Yamster - Reprappers
Last night I set up a printing job which will run over 3 hours. Started printing and watched the first few layers to make sure everything is looking good and going well. Turned off the light, left the room, and went to bed to sleep. This morning, this is what I have found: Yeah.. holy crap... Now I'm heating up the hot end to take this thing off. I just hope I am not gonna see some alienby Yamster - Reprappers
Oh yeah.. optical. Not just an optical switch, but optical measuring device that can find out the distance between the tip of the hot end and the heated bed. That will be sweet. With a proper firmware, it will be able to make height adjustment (if needed) during the print, like compensating for blobs or irregular extrusion height/thickness (if any) of the previously layer. Anyway, if I can'tby Yamster - Reprappers
15.52 came from... trial and error basically. That's why I don't think it's exactly 15.52, but close. When I started the next print without adjusting Z height, as I have described, I was getting symptoms of "Z=0 set too low" - extrusion line is wider than normal because the plastic gets squeezed out to the side (because nozzle head is pressed down too far against the bed). How much too far? Wby Yamster - Reprappers
First of all, I currently do not have Z end stop.... It's a long story... But anyway, in order for me to establish Z=0 point, I have to send in a g code G92 Z0 after locating the nozzle tip at Z=0 position. So, with this setting, I have to trust (?) my printer that if I move the head 100 mm up from Z=0, and then move it down by 100 mm, it will come back to Z=0 position. I thought that's notby Yamster - Reprappers
I would like to provide my own feedback: As I stated in one of my previous postings, I have ordered a spool of PLA from MatterHacker last Thursday. I placed my order on Thursday afternoon, and received it on Saturday! It's an awesome shipping and handling, especially considering the fact that the shipping was free! I've also decided to test my luck with JET PLA from Amazon, so ordered a spoolby Yamster - General
I have a spool of ABS which I bought from eBay (for it was cheap) and it's almost unused because I keep having problems with it. It either jamms the hot end or the extrusion line gets so thin (and sometimes disappears) during the print. I wanted to try at a higher nozzle temperature, but it's already at 230C. If I set it anything higer than that, sometimes it goes over 235C, which is the safteby Yamster - General
Yep, like I said, it took me a couple of failed attempts before I got my PTFE tubing right. First time I didn't have any taper. The second time I did have a tapered end, but I did not tighten the set screw tightly enough, there still was a gap between the (tapered) end of the tube and the top of the metal head/melt zone. Both times, when I took the PTFE tube out I had to pull it very hard (I hby Yamster - Reprappers
Hmm... I am not quite clear your current situation... It's been a while and it's just way too confusing for me. The 30 degree cut I was referring to can be found here: While revisiting the J Head RepRapWiki page above, I've noticed there's a set of instructions for outfitting a J Head for 1.75 mm filament. It seems like it basically requires us to stick in a 1/4" OD (outer diameter) PTFE iby Yamster - Reprappers
Hello, I am in process of creating/designing a camcorder mount. I want to mount a small home use camcorder, and control the pan, tilt, and... hmm. there's one more movement, but not sure how to call it. :p Anyway, so it will have 3 motors, one that spins the hole thing along the Z axis, another one to make the camera look up and down (rotational move along the X axis), and the last one adjusby Yamster - Controllers
Did your friend use the exact same g code? Or, did your friend sliced the STL him/herself by any chance? I think (not 100% sure) the dimensional accuracy, especially with inner openings, can be impacted by the slicing software used and also the layer width.by Yamster - Reprappers
Actually, I don't think the heat from the motor will be transferred to the small gear that efficiently via the shaft. The only thing you would have to worry about deformation from the heat from the motor will be the things to which you mount the motor, like extruder main body or X motor, etc.by Yamster - Reprappers
The smaller gear? I think you can use PLA for usre. Like I said, the only reason I used ABS for the smaller gear was to make it softer than the bigger gear intetionally, so that it will be the one that wears out instead of the other gear (or both).by Yamster - Reprappers
luigi Wrote: > > Also is it necessary to paint the kit? > I don't think it's necessary. I did it for a good look. LOL > Kinda going off topic but ye ^^ had that question > for a while now Well, I asked Colin about it, too (yes, I bugged him quite a bit a lot of questions - I must be on his black list by now). However, my question was somewhat the opposite of yours; instead oby Yamster - Reprappers
For the gears, I used the original (to MakerFarm Prusa i3, that is) design. You can download the STL file from MakerFarm web site - there is URL for the printed parts in the build instructions. And for the extruder body/motor mount, I used this variation: I only used the extruder body from this design. I like the design of the gears which came with my MakerFarmkit (round edges). Also, I likby Yamster - Reprappers
Here's a picture my new extruder - purple/hot pink parts are PLA and gray/silver parts are ABS.by Yamster - Reprappers
I think PLA is actually preferred choice of material for gear parts for some people. Well, I did say some people - I don't want to start a war on this. LOL I actually have a Makerfarm Prusa i3 8" bed myself, and I re-printed the extruder gears, too. Actually... I did a little bit more.. I downloaded a modified design of the extruder body/motor mount, which holds the motor above the X rails, iby Yamster - Reprappers
Hello, What will be the best way of put some text cutout in the print? Like the letters in a spray stencil plate. I thought I could simply do linear extrusion of 2D text shapes from a DFX file, and carve that out from the print body using a difference operation in OpenSCAD. Well, that probably is one of the ways to do it, but I am having a problem creating a DFX file which OpenSCAD can read.by Yamster - General
jbernardis, Monoprice looks good. The shipping cost to my address is a little of $8, so the final price is around $34 for a 1 kg spool. This sure is a good price. Please let us know how your filament worked out. ForgetfulJones, Thanks for the info. I have searched Prototype filaments on Amazon, and even though had very few reviews, they were all 5 stars. But then again, $39 per spool is aby Yamster - General
I hope there are some affordable solution using laser measuring; let the printer figure out where the heated bed is by itself. There could be other applications than just homing in with Z axis with this laser measure capability. For example, we can print on uneven surface with this, since the printer will be able to figure out how much to lower/raise the extruder to add the next layer (of couby Yamster - General
Okay... If I got anything wrong/misunderstood, please correct me. Having said that... I believe your problem is.. simply that your PFTE tube is coming out through the socket hole of the set screw, right? Also, you are trying to use 1.75mm filament. I have a J Head and I exclusively use it for 3 mm filament. I think this whole thing was made for 3 mm filament; the PTFE tube has 3 mm (probablyby Yamster - Reprappers
Thank you for your responses. So, it looks like the most of you guys had negative experience. Seems like another case of you-get-what-you-paid... Well, it's still very tempting, to be honest though. As I have mentioned, it's not just the difference in the base price, but free shipping is additional $5-$10 saving. I did notice Sainsmart had a really high number of reviews on Amazon (probablyby Yamster - General
Please let me know if this type of posting is not allowed - I will remove it right away. I'm thinking about buying some filament from Amazon. There's this supplier (or manufacturer) called JET, which seems like a lot of people love and at the same time a lot of people hate (typical Amazon customer review). There price seems pretty good, and they ship for free. Has anyone used filament from thby Yamster - General