Generally it would be better to keep the electronics outside, because the life time expectation of electronic parts decreases with temperature. But I assume if the inside temperature of the enclosure not extends over 40°C it should not be too harmful (40°C is the maximum ambient temperature for which many electronic devices are designed). The problem with keeping the electronics outside the enclby GerdH - Mendel90
@Nilez The bad smell when printing ABS was also a reason for me to put my M90 into an enclosure. But up to now I don't have an extractor. Nevertheless the smell situation has improved. It seems, that the fumes condense in some way inside the M90, when they become cold. At least my extruder took a slightly orange color, after printing orange ABS for a while. The doors in my enclosure I have fby GerdH - Mendel90
I have built an enclosure, please see the photo attached to this posting: Important is a stable base plate and that the filament spool, the extruder and the heated bed are easy to access. For that the enclosure has a front and a back side door. Also the top of the enclosure is detachable. For more detailed repair work on the M90 also the complete enclosure can be un-screwed from the base plateby GerdH - Mendel90
After printing many parts without problems, yesterday the PSU switched off again during printing. But this time I coudn't solve the problem by simply switching off and on the power switch - after switching on the power not returned and the fan was not running. I was already looking for a spare PSU in the Internet, when I noticed, that the 12V terminal on the Melzi was not as tight screwed as wheby GerdH - Mendel90
1. Connect your 3d printer via USB to your PC 2. Start the Arduino IDE 2a. Look, if the IDE on the bottom right indicates if the Melzi board is connected to some virtual COM port. If not, open the IDE settings to chose the Melzi board and a virtual COM port 3. Open merlin.ino 4. Open the tab configuration.h 5. Edit configuration.h 6. Compile and upload the binary to the printer (right arrow top lby GerdH - Mendel90
As nophead proposed, I printed the large box in natural PLA and the result is perfect: no cracks, no warping, correct dimensions :-)by GerdH - Mendel90
I had the same problem with a squeaking Y axis. Applying sewing machine oil to the rods helped for a while, but after printing for many hours, the Y axis now developes a rattling sound which becomes louder and louder. Curiously, the noise appears only at movements in one direction. I controlled the screws at the Y axis but all are tight. Can it be, that one of the linear bearings has a damage?by GerdH - Mendel90
Finally I achieved to clean the hot end completely! I removed the hot end from the extruder, put it to a vise and heated it up. Then I reamed out the nozzle by a guitar string. But afterwards it was still not possible to look through. I pushed a 3mm drill from above into the hot end, but it moved forward only to about 1cm above of the brass part of the hot end. A 2mm drill I could advance down tby GerdH - Mendel90
Still struggling with the hotend ... I reamed out the nozzle with a guitar string, which helped for a short time, I pulled out the PLA filament several times at 85°C, changed to another type of natural PLA, but nothing was succesfull. The extruder every time stucks again after a short period and I need to disassemble the extruder, clean the hobbed bolt etc. I there a way to clean the J-Head fby GerdH - Mendel90
I think, its a combination of two effects, the curling and burning effect (I have actually some problems with curling) and the debris from inside of the hot end. I extruded some filament into free air and it was curling much. Also the extruder stuck some times for a part of a second, obviosly when a particle of debris passed through the nozzle. So I pulled out the filament manually at 80°C someby GerdH - Mendel90
Hello, in a print, which stopped accidently due to a power loss at the first layer, I spotted some brown dots in the printed filament at several places of the first layer. The dots are also visible from the bottom side. The print is made with white PLA, extruding at 185°C over the heat bed set to 65°C. The PLA is from a new spool of a brand I'm using the first time. So I'm wondering, if this brby GerdH - Mendel90
Hello, yesterday my M90 stopped suddenly after printing for about two hours. I could not communicate to the M90 and I noticed, that the fan of the PSU was off. After switching off and on the power switch of the PSU, the printer worked again. But after 20 minutes happend the same again. Is there something like a thermal fuse inside of the PSU? Normally I'm printing ABS with the M90 inside of aby GerdH - Mendel90
Thanks for the infos. The datasheet of the transparent ABS quoted 225 to 240°C printing temperatures. So I tried 230°C, which worked fine for small objects. But the box must not be transparent or from ABS (btw, if the infill is not solid, it looks not very transparent, more like crushed ice). I still have a spool of green PLA. Or has natural PLA even better characteristics?by GerdH - Mendel90
Hello, after printing many objects without problems, I got serious problems with the largest part I have printed up to now. It is a box with 110x190 mm ground surface and 100mm height. The walls are 3mm thick. The box is printed from transparent Bendlay ABS filament at 230°C over a PET tape covered heat bed set to constant 120°C temperature. My M90 was running in a heated chamber with 44°C insiby GerdH - Mendel90
I had the same problem as Academicdave with one extruder motor screw. Removing another screw and mounting the motor turned by 90° has resolved the problem for me.by GerdH - Mendel90
The chamber is built on top of a 22mm MDF plate with 510mm x 510mm size. The cover is 540mm high and made from L-shaped aluminium profiles 15mm x 15mm, 1mm thick. The plexiglas is 4mm thick. The 540mm height is OK for filament spools up to 220mm diameter. I reused the MDF plate from a former wooden chamber. But I doesn`t like it, because it gave very few insight, what happens inside while printby GerdH - Mendel90
The USB connection uses internally on the board the TX0/RX0 pins of the ATmega. The ATmega provides a second UART interface, TX1/RX1 on the pin header connector JP16. It should not be too difficult to change the firmware for using the other UART. In this case, it can be used as a real RS232 connection (a voltage driver must then be added) or as an USB based virtual COM port (e. g. by an RS232-USBby GerdH - Mendel90
The µSD card dummies with an attached ribbon cable to an external SD card holder are very difficult to obtain. I have now replaced the standard CD4050 in my DYO SD card extension with a high speed 74HC4050 and the external SD card now works also with 8MHz SPI speed. To redefine the CS pin for the SD card is a good idea (seems that I'm still thinking to much in hardware and not in software ...)by GerdH - Mendel90
@Rural Thanks for the hint. I just had a look to the OctoPi website. Looks very promising for me. If the Melzi board is connected to the Rasberry: is it still possible to upload new Melzi firmware from a PC via WiFi and the Rasberry?by GerdH - Mendel90
Hello, Thank you all for the suggestions. My problem with printing directly from the SD card was, that I have my M90 inside of a heated chamber. So the access to the microSD card on the Melzi board is very inconvinient. In between I added a card holder for an external SD card. The external standard SD card holder is connected via a short ribbon cable and an adapter board to the SPI interface lby GerdH - Mendel90
Recently I had several times problems with the USB communication between my M90 and the PC. If I'm switching on or off an inductive load (e. g. my soldering station) in the same room, it's very likely, that the communication is lost and the M90 stops printing. I assume, that the problem is caused by power supply spikes which lead to short-time ground level differences between PC and M90, becausby GerdH - Mendel90
Hello Lars, congratulations for your first Android! It looks OK for me. The fan you will need, when printing with PLA layers, which are printed in very short time, to cool them down before the next layer is printed. How have you tried to start the fan (M106 in command line?)?. Do you have a possibility to measure the output voltage at the related Melzi terminals?by GerdH - Mendel90
Thanks for the info about the extension. I will look for a cheap SD card reader and desolder the card holder. I can connect the SD card holder pins then via a ribbon cable to the Melzi microSD slot pins. A standard SD card slot has the advantage that I don't need the micro to standard SD card adapter anymore. Regarding the SD card upload with Pronterface on my Netbook a tried some things but fby GerdH - Mendel90
I tested this now with my Win7 notebook and it works fine (but slow ...). But I would like to use my old netbook for running Pronterface, to place my M90 in another room. I copied simply the Printrun... directory from the supplied SD card to my netbook. Seems this is not enough for a correct installation ...by GerdH - Mendel90
Hello, I just completed a wooden case for my M90. With the closed case it is difficult to access manually the SD card. So I tried to upload via USB interface to the card. First I loaded the file from the PC ("Load File" button) and afterwards I clicked "SD Upload" and entered a target file name. But this resulted only in an error message "Error: line number is not line number+1, last line nuby GerdH - Mendel90
When I built my kit, I notized also some small gaps, but at another location and smaller. I think this was caused by the elasticity / limited flatness of the desk, on which I built the M90. At calibration of the bed with a gauge I can see, that the measured values change up to +/-50µm , when I put things somewhere on the desk. A sturdy desk with a flat surface seems to be essential for our 3D prby GerdH - Mendel90
I had no problems with warping up to now at printing with 230E and 135B (reduced to 120B after the first layer). The measured bed temperatures were 115°C / 105°C. This changed, when I printed recently a larger part, combining a large surface extension and more height. The corners lifted about 1mm and also the the first cm of the outside walls was deformed a little bit. But I don't know if the eby GerdH - Mendel90
Hello, for a LED lamp I'm developing, I printed a test object, to try out, what are the design limitations regarding overhang and bridges (attached pictures). The object is printed with ABS at 230° extruder and 120° bed temperature over PET tape. It has a large 45° overhang. At the beginning of printing the fan was switched off, resulting in some problems (circle 1 in the pictures). I switchedby GerdH - Mendel90
Thanks for the hints. My M90 now is printing much more silent ...by GerdH - Mendel90
I had similar problems, when printing with PLA objects with layers, which take only few time. I think its not a problem with the extruding temperature. The problem is, that the layer down isn't stiff enough, when the next layer is printed. In the cool script of Skeinforge there are some settings to deal with this problem. Orbiting doesn't work for me. "slow down" is better. Nophead mentioneby GerdH - Mendel90