Hi Matt, I was wondering about the "insert" too. Maybe considering the dimensions it is a printable idler bearing axle that sits in the slot of the "extruder guider" part. Don't know what the hole in the part would be for though. About the PLA effector, I don't think you'll be able to print with that for very long. But maybe just long enough to print an abs version with your Cherry Pi. Have youby Nilez - Delta Machines
Thanks very much Andy, I do have to add that I use different nylon/delrin wheels than the mini v's from Openbuilds. This means that my rod carriages sit a little bit closer to the profile towers. I'm also using a different construction for the rods since I couldn't find drilled 8 mm ball joints. I figured that the latest cherry pi's rod length including the balls is around 241 mm? (225 mm tubesby Nilez - Delta Machines
Hi Andy and others, So I have tried my best to build my cherry pie as accurately as possible and I guess now it's time to power up the electronics and calibrate etc. Now I have a couple of questions. I'm new to delta printers but from what I've read in the thread is when I use the LJ12A3-4-Z/BY sensor together with Rich Cattels' Marlin from the test branch on github, I'm ready to start the calibby Nilez - Delta Machines
Great! Thanks! But in theory one could use the ball/socket parts as they come out of the printer as long as the dimensions are correct?by Nilez - Delta Machines
Hi people, I have an 8mm ball end-mill and I was wondering if using it to smooth the sockets on the effector and carriage plates benefits the workings of the ball/socket joints? Or will this only introduce inconsistencies in the delta arm lengths? Thanks Nilezby Nilez - Delta Machines
You may have a point thereby Nilez - RAMPS Electronics
Hi Folks, I stumbled upon this kid's solution on his instructible at step 20. He soldered up a little board so he can use the original ramp's mosfets. Seems to work ok for him.by Nilez - RAMPS Electronics
Hi Andy, Do you use support material to print the bottom stepper base? I see there's a part in the the design where there's a 90 degree overhang at the inside where the profiles are sitting. Thanks in advance,by Nilez - Delta Machines
Hey guys, Thanks Andy thats good to know! Hey Pugzor, great you're still hanging in and perfecting your Cherry Pi despite those bumps on the road getting there that I've read about in this thread!!by Nilez - Delta Machines
Hi Andy, quick question. I'm building the wonderfull cherry pi IIIS and have the same "clone" metal hotend (that you supply with the kit I believe?). What thermistor table in Marlin do you use with this hotend?by Nilez - Delta Machines
It's weird, the right nut squeaks at the same amount even with all the clamps loose . I think I'll take the machine apart when I move it to another room in a short while to see if something's not right with the seating of the nut or something. Squeak always seems to go away after 15 cm down from the home position though, so it still suggests some misalignment I guess. Edit: ---------------------by Nilez - Mendel90
Thanks Garry, I've tried to get them parallel a while ago to see if that helped but I certainly didn't do it as elaborate as you're describing so I'm going to try this.by Nilez - Mendel90
Hi Garry, Darn! The sound only disappears when I relieve some of the downward pressure on the nut on the right (by very gently pushing up from underneath the right x-end) and not by pushing down on the left. Guess I still need another solution. My printer works great as far as I can tell but that sound when lowering down the first 15 cm....AARGH soo high pitch and loud . LOL Even my friends compby Nilez - Mendel90
Well done Garry! I'm going to try this too. See if that gets the squeak out of the nuts in the x-ends when lowering the z-axes.by Nilez - Mendel90
Hi QP, Here's a link to one of the papers: . It concerns the emission of UFP (ultra fine particles) caused by the heating of PLA as well as ABS. Although ABS emits 10 times more. Apart from the fumes, I need to build an enclosure to keep heat in because I'm moving my printer to a garage space.by Nilez - Mendel90
Ah indeed. That one sort of only encloses the area in which the printer moves. They use laminated mdf for their frame which in this design also become part of the walls of the box. I wonder if the dibond panels have the same isolating capacity to keep the heat enclosed.by Nilez - Mendel90
I see. But couldn't you design an enclosure sealed around the back-right part (where the electronics sit). Sort of a box with a cut out corner section?by Nilez - Mendel90
Thanks GerdH. (I thought I'd start a separate thread on the subject: ) Is it better to exclude the electronics and the PSU from the rest of the chamber and leave them in contact with the outside room?by Nilez - Mendel90
Hi all, Since I didn't want to hijack the thread on Mendel90 enclosures, I thought I'd start a separate thread on controlling the fumes. I'm too planning to build an enclosure for a while now. But what I want to add is a fume extraction mechanism. I've already read a study stating that a desktop 3d printer can be labelled as a "high emitter" of nano sized particles which could be harmful. Sinceby Nilez - Mendel90
Hi guys, Now that we're talking enclosures. What about fume control? Does anyone use some sort of extractor in addition to the enclosure? I don't have an enclosure right now and I notice that when I'm working in the same room as the printer for longer periods I get mild headaches and/or a sore throat after a while. Don't think this very healthy, especially in the long run.by Nilez - Mendel90
Just a tip: If there's no filament in the extruder at this point, you should load the extruder with some filament first and heat it to the extrusion temperature and let it cool to 80C from there. Otherwise I don't think this trick will work. But correct me if I'm wrong here though.by Nilez - Mendel90
Yep that's what he means. I do it manually by lowering the carriage and then turning off the motors so I can turn the big gear to reverse the filament. I also set it to 85C if the filament feels really stuck.by Nilez - Mendel90
Hi Wisar, For me just increasing to 1,5 was enough when extruding at 190 C. No extra length on restart was necessary. My bridges do come out a bit messier though. But I don't know if that has anything to do with retraction yet. Regards, Nielsby Nilez - Mendel90
Ah ok, I hope some experts can chime in here.by Nilez - Mendel90
Hehe cheers. Yeah I knew I've read that thread some time ago and that it was about "spare parts" in PLA or ABS so that made the search a bit easier.by Nilez - Mendel90
Hi, I think this thread answers your question: Regards, Nielsby Nilez - Mendel90
Maybe it also has something to do with the layers not getting cooled down enough? I'm a newb but I have had this sort of problem when printing small layers. It helps to print multiple objects to increase the layer/cooling time. Still the pictures do you show a lot of stringiness so there does indeed seem to be too much oozing going on. I recently asked about retraction length on the the forum andby Nilez - Mendel90
In the directions in line with the sides of the spool, the readings are always fairly consistent but it's a nightmare in the other direction. So from now on I'll just take the manufacturers word for it and assume the filament is nice and roundby Nilez - Mendel90
Thanks Neil, So measuring in both directions isn't really necessary? I was a bit worried that the filament is a bit oval because I'm getting different readings from "both directions" and need to average the result. But the difference might be caused by the curvature.by Nilez - Mendel90