Hello, I am looking for pointers to slicing algorithms and the maths related to it. Do you have any good reading to recommend? Perhaps online university courses? Scientific papers? Any nice source code you recommend reading? I want to learn the basics of how to implement a slicer. BR, Davidby dawa - Developers
Thanks! I'll repost it there.by dawa - General
Hello, I am looking for pointers to slicing algorithms. Do you have any good reading to recommend? Perhaps online university courses? Scientific papers? Any nice source code you recommend reading? I want to learn the basics of how to implement a slicer. In what thread in this forum should I post such questions? BR, Davidby dawa - General
Aha, thanks! Yes, that sounds like a plausible explanation. I'll go on vacation now, and won't have access to my printer for a week or more ... But I'll try to take apart these parts and carefully remount it. Maybe I should straighten the Z threaded rods as well. Thanks a lot! /Davidby dawa - Mendel90
I have another observation: I printed one of the parts of my gauge holer again, the same gcode. (the first picture in this thread, the clamp holding the dial gauge) The banding was exactly the same, w.r.t the Z axis. So it is deterministic and reproucible. Then I have hard to believe it is the extruder. Am I right? /Davidby dawa - Mendel90
Hello, I printed a hollow cube and cylinder with 2mm walls, 30 mm high, after having tightened the extruder clamp and recalibrated e_steps_per_mm. The print in the pictures is sliced with skeinforge, ryan marks profile 0.3 mm PLA, 200 celcius, 50mm/s. 0.07 infill perimeter overlap, 100% infill solidity (grid rectangular). In banding1, banding3, and banding4, one can see that the plastic is unevenby dawa - Mendel90
Hi, Ok, I see. I think it has developed. I have seen it more or less when I printed tall straight things like tubes and cylinders. But it became worse. I thought for a while it was because I hadn't tuned the printer for the new filament. Now I tried to tighten the extruder idler clamp so that the clamp screws are 1 mm on the other side of the wades block. and I raised the temp to 200. I'll sby dawa - Mendel90
Sorry, the English fails me: I don't understand exactly what you mean by "the studding rotates". The brass nuts have some tape around them, but I don't know if it is enough. I don't think I left any end "floating" when I levelled the bed. I tried to follow the manual as close as possible. (It was over a year ago) Realign the Z bars--you mean the smooth z rods? Best regards, Davidby dawa - Mendel90
Hi, thanks! Ok, it is good to know that my 0.125 mm eccentricity is not an issue. I actually reduced it to 0.09 mm. So, maybe either I have inconcistent extrusion, or I have too tightly fitted brass nuts. The defect in my prints is visible in the picture I attached here. I might try to remount my Z couplings later... BR, Davidby dawa - Mendel90
I managed to reduce the error to 0.05 mm by loosening the clamps and push/pull them by hand force. But when I thightened them, the error came back. I feel I will have to remove some of the rubber inside to make a change...by dawa - Mendel90
Hi, thank for your reply, nophead. I read in some forum that there was an intention behind the rubber tubes and that the brass nuts should not be too tight (similar for prusa i3), and there I got the impression that the "slack" should prevent the wobble to propagate to the print result. But you didnt comment on this, and I guess from that, you dont find it important, or maybe even not true. If thby dawa - Mendel90
In the manual's section about bed levelling it is mentioned how to do this. You twist the Z threaded rods individually to level the X axis with respect to the bed. First turn off the motors, for instance by using pronterface. It is well explained in the manual, once you find it ;-) I had to go back and read some parts over and over--every detail has a meaning, it is quite condensed. But it's reaby dawa - Mendel90
Hi, I got my mendel90 kit from nophead in Nov 2013. Now I am beginning to wonder if I did not mount the Z lead screws good enough. I think I have some Z wobble, although I may have confused it with extruder/temperature problems. Anyway, I have some unwanted waves along the Z axis on my prints, about 1 mm periodicity (haven't checked this carefully). Here is a picture: (sliced with skeinforge, ryaby dawa - Mendel90
Hi, I bought the kit for about 20 months ago, and I first levelled it with metod 1. This will be enough to be able to print the dial gauge mount device. Note however that many dial gauges gauges have a too short feeler, so it doesnt reach the bed. In that case you can 3d-print some device to prolong it, dependent on how it is constructed. In my case, I could detach the tip of the feeler, and putby dawa - Mendel90
Thanks! I'll try that!by dawa - Experimental
Yes, I see. Thanks a lot! Great to know about the fudge factor :-) Davidby dawa - Mendel90
Ok, I see, that makes sense! The printer that printed my part has two nozzles, and has one of them for support that is soluble in caustic soda. So in that case it could have printed it without the extra membrane :-) BR, Davidby dawa - Mendel90
Hello, I cloned the mendel90 github repo today, in order to print a new wades_block.stl. I opened it in blender, and found that the hole for the hobbed bolt is covered by a thin layer, at two places. A friend printed a new one for me, and we found it when the print was finished. He had opened it in netfabb, and saw the same thing as I did. I have noticed when I play with openscad, that there areby dawa - Mendel90
Hello, this thread seems old, so I hope it's not too old for posting a question... I just downloaded, installed and started MatterControlSetup-1.2.0.deb on my ubuntu-14.04, quite fresh installed machine. It required mono, so I installed mono-complete as suggested on the command-line. First, I was asked me to enter info about my serial connection and my printer. I dont have the printer attached tby dawa - Experimental
Hmm. But mendel90 is clearly a RepRap printer, so what does "here" mean then? (is is clearly in the RepRap community already) There are a lot of interesting ideas and printers out there. Maybe things just happen to turn out in one way or another? Anyway, mendel90 deserves more attention, it seems to me, so the word should be spread :-) Do you know any good pointers to comparative discussions/siteby dawa - Mendel90
No problem, I don't take offense :-) Of course FB has many limitations, but it could be a complement for fun and picture sharing, etc. I am member of a few 3d-printing related FB groups (3D printing DIY for instance, with a lot of techies), and only very few people there seem to be aware of mendel90. Prusa i3 seems far more established. I think more people should take a look at mendel90.by dawa - Mendel90
So, what about a mendel90 facebook group?by dawa - Mendel90
It worked! Many thanks to all of you for support and ideas! I took some copper wire out of a cable, jammed it into the soldering pen, together with some thinner copper wires in order to get decent heat conductivity, and made a small crook in the outer end of the 1 mm copper wire. I heated up the pen and melted the crook into the cold end of the hotend. Then I turned off the soldering pen and letby dawa - Mendel90
Maybe. There is really nothing to get hold on, I attached a picture in the first message in this thread. Another idea is to push a crooked heated metal wire into the plastic at the "cold side". For instance a short copper wire mounted in a soldering pen. I can also try heating the hot end at the same time, and push down the plastic to free up the entrance. I think I'll try something in that direby dawa - Mendel90
Thanks. There is no margin, no plastic outside the cold end. So there is no grip for a pliers. I thought I could drill into it, but it could be risky of course ...by dawa - Mendel90
Hi again, I tried the following: 1. I heated up the hot end to 215 celcius 2. I put about 20 cm filament in the extruder 3. I pushed a needle up the nozzle, and there seems to be nothing in the way. strange. there is some air in there 4. I extruded 5mm in slow speed, repeatedly to see if something would come out. nothing happens, and the extruder cant press the filament down at all. 5. I remoby dawa - Mendel90
Thanks! I wonder why it cracked. I can't see there should be any strong forces on it. I haven't tightened the idler screws very hard, there is still slack. And I can't imagine that the hobbed bolt can push the filament very hard, it should rather just rasp it. I have not tightened the m8 nuts very hard against the ball bearings either. Maybe the ball bearings are pushed too hard into it, and theyby dawa - Mendel90
Hello, I just took apart my wades block in order to clean the hobbed bolt after a plastic jam. Then I saw some cracks in it. See attached picture. Some questions on this: 1. Can this still be used? (i guess so) 2. Can it be printed in PLA? 3. How do I proceed if I want to order a new one from nophead? Best regards, Davidby dawa - Mendel90
Thanks! Good to know! I also found it very crude to have to put hard-wired constants into the config files instead of using variables. I wonder if it is possible to prevent skeinforge fromo saving the settings for every click you perform in the GUI. To counter that behavoiur I have a backup file tree, and remove/overwrite the working tree regularly, replacing it with the backup tree, to "undo theby dawa - Mendel90