Thanks for the feedback brucehvn. I'm going to try out lowering the speed and the flow ratio. That torture test seems useful. I've had good results with the 3DLac so far for both ABS and also PLA. Printing on IKEA Sörli mirrors. So I'll stick to that for the time being. Might check out PEI if the 3DLac starts to fail though.by kodde - Printing
Here's yet another print, this time with the intention of fixing the hole at the top of the head. Changes since last print: Top & bottom infill layers: 6 -> 12 Automatic fan speed: 0% - 40% when layer time 15s - 5s As you can see the hole in the head is gone But... general surface quality has gotten quite a lot worse, looks like excess material. I am guessing the change in fast speed onlby kodde - Printing
I'm leaning towards increasing the amount of top layers and enabling a bit of fan speed at really low layer times.by kodde - Printing
So right after that first successful print I did another one with same settings except for disabling the auto-generated support material. Turned out pretty nice except for the print having an even bigger hole on the top of the head. I'm doing 6 top layers and infill level is at 10%. My PLA versions of this model has managed to fill that hole nicely. Could this be failing bridging perhaps? In absby kodde - Printing
Ahhh... Found it. Was in advanced settings where I rarely venture. It seems default is 200% which I haven't changed so I think I'm running the same settings you just mentioned for ABS. Like you mentioned from here on it it's going to be a lot of trial and error with small setting increments. Thanks.by kodde - Printing
Layer width? You mean height? Or what am I missing? I'm using 0.35 layer height on first layer, then 0.2mm after the first. Bottom and Top solid layers: 6. Infill 10%.by kodde - Printing
Here's some more pics of last nights results. I really leveled the bed close to the hotend nozzle to really squash it. Seems like it produced a really flat and glossy bottom. This is good right? Was no signs or warping/lifting at the base edges. The first layers have some issues with excess material(?). I'm guessing this is due to the squashed layer evening out over a few layers and the exby kodde - Printing
I haven't tried brim yet. So here's last nights results. Great success! My first successful ABS in a long time. Unfortunately I had managed to some how enable autogenerated supports in Slic3r. I'll try some more prints with these new settings. Thanks everyone!by kodde - Printing
Thanks for the suggestions the_digital_dentist. No the raft is not a deal breaker. I think I will try without it for my next print. I've already got my custom built enclosure so I'm going to put a thermometer there and see what temperatures I get. To-do for next print: Up the bed temperature from 80 -> 105C, check bed leveling when bed is hot, disable the fan altogether and skip the raft.by kodde - Printing
Hello Lepes, I see what you mean with the amount of 3DLac/Hair spray. There is a layer on the glass, although quite thin. I think I understood you with the bed leveling and transparency. I'll check out these factors as well. One thing though. My last print wasn't an issue with the raft releasing from the glass surface. It was the model releasing from the raft midprint. Mirror/glass surface wasby kodde - Printing
Thanks deacon. I'll let you know how it goes.by kodde - Printing
Thanks for the suggestions. I'll try with 100C on the bed and alter the fan speed. Might for for some speed like you're doing since I have it enclosed and it gets quite hot. I'll report back once I've tried this.by kodde - Printing
Yeah the Nophead Mendel90 has a heatbed. This last print in the pictures I tried running the bed at 80C and hotend at 235C. First layers same temperatures. Should I try upping the temperature for the next print? Are these symptoms due to insufficient or excess heat?by kodde - Printing
Hey guys, Sorry if this is already covered here. Tried finding a similar thread with this issue but didn't manage to find anything. Anyway. I own a Nophead Mendel90 and I have been able to print ABS right when I got the printer and a while after. But for a year or so I've always been having the print failing due to the base warping and breaking off the print bed. I've tried ABS slurry, kapton tby kodde - Printing
Cool stuff! Any stl to share? I'd like to try this as wellby kodde - Mendel90
Had been itching to try spray painting a 3D model with gold color for some while now. Gave it a go yesterday. Turned out quite nice I think. Didn't hide 3D layers and imperfections, but made it look more fabulous and more visible in general than the black PLA. Definitely going to try it again with an ABS version that has been acetone vapor treated. End goal would be to mimic an Oscar prize statueby kodde - Mendel90
I've been having loads to do with moving to the new house we bought so haven't had as much time as I'd wanted to experiment with the Mendel90. The custom support version did not work that well, I suspect too few frail columns. I've had some issues with getting PLA to stick to the surface. Tried some diluted PVA glue and blue painters tape. Both worked decently. Reverted back to just plain glassby kodde - Mendel90
I tried your idea with a vertical cut Neil. It failed though due to lifting from the bed. But I have noticed other signs of the bed running too hot. Need to lower it and try again some time. Still think this idea might work. Although I'm aiming for trying another go on the head with my own supports I added in Maya. Haven't had time to try it out yet since I've got too much things going on in myby kodde - Mendel90
Neildarlow> The thought had occured to me but I figured that building the layers in the top-to-bottom-direction(Z-direction) with the facing standing up, even with supports, would look better. Might be wrong about this? As you look at the face you would be looking right at the layering mostly which is ideal in my mind. Should I go for head lying down instead? lions3> That's a pretty neat iby kodde - Mendel90
Here's my new prepared version of the bust that I will be printing. This version is around 1.8x total size of the old one. I added the three cylinders just to get other objects in the scene to let other layers cool. Do you think this is a good idea?by kodde - Mendel90
Oh I see. No wonder it might come out looking strange Thanks. I'll have a look.by kodde - Mendel90
QuakingPlums> Good idea. I might try to add some other objects in the same print to give the layers more time to cool. I figured I'd print new spool holders yesterday for my 3dfilaprint spools as I was running out of this green faberdashery pla that I got bundled with nopheads kit. So no fancy head bust update today. I am working on separating that model in three parts which I will glue togetby kodde - Mendel90
Yeah tell me about it. I already dislike supports. Yes there was supports under the ears and chin. Any ideas on how to improve these areas further? I realize they probably won't be perfect. There's a bit of drooping downwards facing areas which were not held up by supports, such as the side of the chin and the lower back of the head. Any ideas on how to improve this? Here's a new print. Same phby kodde - Mendel90
Alright so I've had time to create a new print. Definately better, but still room for improvement. I changed quite a few things Scaled it down to around 80% (10cm -> 8cm height). Changed layer height from 0.1mm -> 0.15mm. Tightened the idle screws just a bit more. Raised the heated bed start and other layers temperature. Raised the hotend start and other layers temperature. Increased amoby kodde - Mendel90
Thanks a bunch! I'm going to do some more testing and I'll keep this thread updated.by kodde - Mendel90
Here's the model. Created by a talented friend of mine. There would probably be support materials all over the pedestal if it got that far. Now when looking at it I realize that you might be right about the blobbing being because of an overhanging part higher up. The base of the pedestal isn't entirely big enough to cover all potential support material areas higher up in the model. So I am assumiby kodde - Mendel90
Maybe I need a bigger and/or taller skirt/brim to keep a more even temperature on the bed to get rid of the lifting? Why the blobbing is happening I still can't seem to figure out... could this be related to the lifting?by kodde - Mendel90
Hello everyone. I finished building my Mendel90 nophead printer yesterday. This morning I was going to get a print started and let i run during the day. A character bust on a small pedestal at 0.1mm layer height. I used slic3r to create the gcode file. The first attempt got as far as finishing the pedestal and when it proceeded to print the bust part I realized I had missed the concept of suppoby kodde - Mendel90