Show all posts by user
http://reprap.org/wiki/Mendel90
Page 1 of 2 Pages: 12
Results 1 — 30 of 41
Re: SOLVED - E3D V6 fan duct placement ("Sturdy" Mendel90)? - 10 years ago
On my sturdy I swapped in a shorter bolt on the fan side. I also have a thiner version of nophead's knob nut but which I made by being ham fisted. I nocked it of the bed at the point u insert the nuts... But it works perfectly.by ElectroWomble - Mendel90
Re: Metal hotend - recommendations? - 10 years ago
Also you need to work out what you're trying to acheave by going for an all metal hotend. Its not as simple as metal = better therefore upgrade... For example many people report problems printing PLA with all metal hotends.by ElectroWomble - Mendel90
Re: Missing doodah - 10 years ago
I think it was discontinued. My PTFE tube just buts up against the top of the extruder. After a lot of abusive treatment by me that end of the ptfe tube is looking a bit scruffy... But this seams to have no detrimental effect on the way it prints. I think the doodah was in the erlyer github revisions... But I can't remember what it was called...by ElectroWomble - Mendel90
Re: Wades block snapped, help! - 10 years ago
You may be able to do a tepery bodge to get it going long enuf to print a new one. Get some acetone (available from hardware shops that sell paint) and in a glass or metal jar/pot desolve some white/natural ABS (old faild prints work well) until you have a thick gunk. Then spread some on the joint to glue them back to gether. You can also build up some of the ABS cement around the outsides of theby ElectroWomble - Mendel90
Re: Is there any low warp ABS available in U.K. - 10 years ago
I think E3D are floging SmartABS. Have never used it so can't say how good it is... Looks pricy.by ElectroWomble - Printing
Re: Bed can't maintain temperature - 10 years ago
Or maby its just because when the bed starts wafting back and forward in the cool air it loses heat quicker than when its stationary? Do you have any insulation under the bed?by ElectroWomble - Mendel90
Re: First attempt with ABS. Any advice - 10 years ago
If your in Eroup: Use the natural filament as its stronger. Prints well for me from 240 - 250by ElectroWomble - Mendel90
Re: scale model of a mendel90 anyone? - 10 years ago
You have done a superbe job of this! Thanks for taking us all along for the ride with all the photos and video. On April the 1st you should post a question on the forum about why X dose not work ... including a photo of your "mendel90" and see how long it takes anybody to notice!by ElectroWomble - Mendel90
Re: Fire Hazard - 10 years ago
Has anybody tested one of the all metal hot ends (which presumably conduct away a bit more heat than a PEEK hotend) with a 20W heater as @nophead suggests? If we can still get to 315C then this just seams like a no brainer. I would like to be able to print at 310C to print PC but I would very much like not to be able to print at 600C! Intrinsically safe just seems like a good idea.by ElectroWomble - Safety & Best Practices
Re: KISSLicer Is Up To The Challenge: Wade's Big Gear - 10 years ago
How dose it do on cal.stl ?by ElectroWomble - Mendel90
Re: Bed cooling fan duct - 10 years ago
Thankyou it looks good. Would you be up for sharing the scad file?by ElectroWomble - Mendel90
Re: scale model of a mendel90 anyone? - 10 years ago
Amazing! You sometimes get very long elastic bands round some packaging... that could work. Failing that a bit of elastic ribbon (Like whats in clothes) would work.by ElectroWomble - Mendel90
Re: scale model of a mendel90 anyone? - 10 years ago
@QuackingPlums Would you be up for sharing the design files? (Maby in a new thread) @bastard can we see the model M90 next to the real thing for scale? Its looking really good already... On tenter hooks to find out how you will tackle the rest.by ElectroWomble - Mendel90
Re: scale model of a mendel90 anyone? - 10 years ago
I like having the bed fan on the inside as that way the end of the fan is closer to the bed with the part being cooled so the air has not spread out as much when it hits the part. I drilled an extra hole for the wire just under the fan so it could come up the outside like the z wires.by ElectroWomble - Mendel90
Re: Low-E Glass - 10 years ago
I presume it filters out or reflects radiated light... I would not expect it to make a massive diference to how it conducts heat. If I were you i would be more worried about what the surface coating will do to how things stick to the glass. (wont matter if you plan to use tape)by ElectroWomble - General
Re: Skeinforge temperature settings for default PLA0.3 profile? - 10 years ago
It is set in the start gcode which is in my home directory under .skenforge/alteration/start_PLA.gcode (may be in a slightly different place on your machine) if you edit that file all the new things you slice will get the changes.by ElectroWomble - Mendel90
Re: scale model of a mendel90 anyone? - 10 years ago
Its kind of a cute project.... You may be able to print a full model as one solid thing (no movement) directly from the Mendel 90 model... You could put a conveniently large object on the bed to act as support material for the x access..... Although ideally that object should be a smaller M90 and...... Whatever you do you should film it!by ElectroWomble - Mendel90
Re: Pibot & Repetier-Host - 10 years ago
Yes you will get faster rise time in the inductive winding so you will hit the max current quicker... but if nophead is correct (he usually is :-) ) then that wont matter much as the max speed is limited by the point at which the system goes into mechanical resonance. The point is that that limit is a lot higher speed than we need on a reprap. So for all practical points of view it will just wby ElectroWomble - Mendel90
Re: Pibot & Repetier-Host - 10 years ago
Current determines the torque (both for holding and accelerating the motor). The voltage has nothing directly to do with the speed of the motor. As long as you have stepper motors which conform to the recommendations in the wiki: (which boils down to low resistance) the stepper drivers will have sufficient spare voltage from a 12 volt supply to create the current you wont even if the motors aby ElectroWomble - Mendel90
Re: Pibot & Repetier-Host - 10 years ago
As i understand it (sombody correct me if im wrong) the drivers deliver a set current as determined by the current setting trim pot. If you wire the two stepers in series then that doubles the total resistance (double the impeadance to be totaly corect) so the the driver must supply double the voltage across boath motors (across the output of the driver) to achive the same current as if there werby ElectroWomble - Mendel90
Re: Pibot & Repetier-Host - 10 years ago
The Mendel 90 instructions suggest you run the Z steppers in series. That way the steppers see the same current as they would normally and the drivers deliver a little more voltage than they would normally. Works well with the kind of NEMA17 steppers we use for repraps.by ElectroWomble - Mendel90
Re: Z min for Mendel90 - 10 years ago
You can git clone the Mendel90 repository from git hub then do the scad change that nophead suggests above and then rebuild the stls. There is a good README in the git repo.by ElectroWomble - Mendel90
Re: Twisting wires not always needed? - 11 years ago
Twisting the wires makes shore there is not a big gap between the two wires. If there is no gap then the magnetic fields around the two wires will cancel each other out.... If you dont do this and leave the wires flapping around in the breeze with a big gap between the two wires a big magnetic field will be produced. As the current in the wires is changing lots the magnetic field will be changby ElectroWomble - Mendel90
Re: E3D fan wiring Mendel90 - 11 years ago
Sounds like one of two things could be happening. 1) the hot end has a lower resistance than it should have (so when it gets switched on it pulls down the +12 rail at the x carage end more than it should) look for a partial short near the hotend) 2) there is more resistance on the 12V wire too the x-carage than there should be between the power supply and the x-carage... look for a duff connectiby ElectroWomble - Mendel90
Re: Switching to ABS - need any tips or tricks - 11 years ago
Thats ruffly what I have done. It works well and by the time the Heated Bed is at 120 the chamber is at 43 - 45 degrease. Once the print starts I run a 60mm fan 12V (same as the one on the fan duct) but I run it from the 5V rails to slow it down a bit. That seems to keep it around 43-45 depending on how warm the room is... I plan to add temperature control at some point. The fan sends the fuby ElectroWomble - Mendel90
Re: Switching to ABS - need any tips or tricks - 11 years ago
Yes please tell us how it goes!by ElectroWomble - Mendel90
Re: Switching to ABS - need any tips or tricks - 11 years ago
The problems with the edge are not just that the bed its self is colder there but also there is no layer of warm air sat on top of the bed at that point (as it tends to get shunted off by the movement of the bed.) nophead is as ever ahead of us hear I have had some success with printing long thin things by putting them diagonally across the bed as this makes the ends not quite so close to theby ElectroWomble - Mendel90
Re: Switching to ABS - need any tips or tricks - 11 years ago
Nice print. You may get problems with bigger prints... or you may not! Keeping things stuck to the bed seems to be the most mysterious part of this hole 3D printing thing. Definitely worth experimenting. Did you do anything to clean the glass? Also what brand of ABS did you print with?by ElectroWomble - Mendel90
Page 1 of 2 Pages: 12