Quotenophead When using an E3D hot end I did need to increase the PID functional range to 20 when using it to print polycarbonate at 275C. I also changed THERMAL_PROTECTION_HYSTERESIS to 10. Marlin temperature control is a nightmare of complexity. On my old machines with my own firmware I simply used bang-bang and it works just as well, no tuning. It doesn't work on Marlin because it doesn't samby JaredTS486 - Mendel90
So I upgraded my firmware to nophead's https://github.com/nophead/Marlin and my temp fluctuations are at a minimum now... However... I noticed an issue with my hotend that seems related to this: https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/21661 The hotend stops heating just before the set temp. Sometimes it recovers, other times the printer errors and resets. From what I read it looks rby JaredTS486 - Mendel90
Quotenophead Have you got PID enabled for the BED? It is better than bang-bang because the fluctuations from bang-bang bang can cause the bed to flex. I don't see how minor voltage fluctuations can cause big changes in hot end temperature. Are you using the original Melzi we supplied or a different one? Perhaps voltage drops in the ground traces of the PCB are causing thermistor reading variatiby JaredTS486 - Mendel90
Quotenophead I don't think it is a power issue. A small change in voltage would be easily corrected by the control. Perhaps the PID tuning is off as it looks almost like a sinusoidal oscillation. The oscillations only occur when the heated bed initially draws power. I have run the PID auto tuning several times with little variation in the values. Should I be running the PID auto tune while the hby JaredTS486 - Mendel90
I can confirm that the power supply is not the issue. Although between everything I have tried, the power spikes have smoothed out a small amount. I might try a new heated bed next. I don't see any real print issues other than my printer sometimes will never start after issuing the M109 command. The wait timer resets if the spikes are too large.by JaredTS486 - Mendel90
Can anyone advise on how to get Octoprint to work with this firmware? I keep getting "Communication timeout while idle" errors when trying to connect. Edit: After updating the firmware I can connect to the printer but issue no commands and no temperatures are visible. Edit: Nevermind, I am going to use nophead's latest Marlin 2.0.x update.by JaredTS486 - Mendel90
I will have to see if I can find another power supply to rule out the one I have being faulty. It is a 500w EVGA power supply. I also re-soldered / cleaned the the connections that mount into the screw terminals and added an extra 12v wire from the power supply rails to the 12v input on the board. And then took some new measurements: PSU input voltage drop is the same but .02v higher. 12.2 notby JaredTS486 - Mendel90
I am seeing a slight dip in power on the supply: 12.18 to 12.02v when the bed turns on. Voltage on the hotend is all over the place (which I think is normal when it is maintaining a temp). The bed voltage turns on and off at about 11.3v and the hotend peaks around 11.8v when turned on from being cold. The only recent cause I can think of is that I recently messed with my hotend to clean a clogby JaredTS486 - Mendel90
My Dibond Mendel 90 hotend started having some +-5c temp spikes that seem related to my heated bed drawing power. My hotend is a newish E3Dv6, everything else is stock. Only recently started having issues. Anyone have any thoughts or suggestions?by JaredTS486 - Mendel90
To prevent this, wind your wire tips as tight as possible and tin/seal them with some solder.by JaredTS486 - Mendel90
If you are using the ooze free start g-code you can use temperature placeholder variables so you do not have to change it in the g-code every time. Other Slic3r placeholder variables listed here. M104 S; set extruder temp M190 S ; set bed temp & wait M109 S ; wait for extruder tempby JaredTS486 - Mendel90