Quotenophead ...designed to be cut with a CNC I took advantage of that and made some of the holes slots and rounded the corners. For cutting Dibond with a router you want a single spiral fluted endmill... ...I don't know if a Dremel is up the the job. I use an 800W Kress spindle motor. Ahh, okay- kinda what I was thinking. When I compiled the plans for my machine I set the cnc_flag to false andby m_pan - Mendel90
Quotenopheadbut you need a CNC to make that version. Is this an overstatement? I am planning to build my frame with 3mm comp. intent is to cut the panels by Dremel with the bit below... thought my biggest problem would be with plastic fouling the bit- is there something I'm overlooking?by m_pan - Mendel90
I think you need to verify your connection and settings for your board. From what I can see the error you are getting is a generic Arduino error message that can be caused by several things... perhaps this will get you started?by m_pan - Mendel90
1) Not totally unexpected. I was assuming as much- just wanted to make sure I wasn't going down a dead end by having my first set printed in PLA. 2) That's what I thought (the hobbed bolt was a good indicator). I've just taken to googling terms to make sure I'm thinking what another meant. ( I get it... a lot of online listings are using the 'hex' in place of 'allen' in reference to the drive. Jby m_pan - Mendel90
Plastic Hardware Rods Rods (pt. 2) (1) I've been assuming yes- but if my first parts are in PLA will the extruder block plastic last long enough to print it's own replacement in ABS? (2) So, ...hardware... the BOM is a little vague on this one..."m3 cap screw" and "m3 hex screw" are seemingly the same thing- at least according to google image search. Could this ( V V V ) style be used for boby m_pan - Mendel90
Black extrusion would look pretty slick- especially with the black dibond printer frame. I also just noticed that yours has a couple filament rolls snuck in there. I got curious and went looking for a solution... - $6.95 rechargable LiPo and charger. Pull 5v from somewhere and you have light for if you're working on it, prepping the bed, tinkering with the electronics or want to still have lighby m_pan - Mendel90
Ordered my AlumComp today. 4'x8' sheets @ $32.66 shipped. Having the frame cnc-milled has proven to not be worth the effort of finding a place to do a one-off production, much less having options to price compare. Hand cutting the panels accurately shouldn't be all that hard, I'll just have to take my time with the drill patterns. Given that I can't just run down the street and buy the comp. Iby m_pan - Mendel90
That looks really, really good. Nice touch adding the second top door. The extrusion and lots of clear acrylic really get maximum effect from the leds. Is it an effect of the room lighting or does that extrusion have a colored finish? In the picture it almost looks pewter-ish. Probably just me but it's too bad power supplies don't have a 12v stand-by... add a switch inside the door frame so youby m_pan - Mendel90
I took it as a reference to the mount style. I understand the difference between, say, an authentic Zippo vs. a stamped chinese knockoff. As it applies to this instance- I'm more concerned about capability to try diffrerent filaments while sticking close to the original mendel90 design. I just worry about having plastic *inside* the barrel. Once I'm up and printing I can see having different hotby m_pan - Mendel90
Quotealkempster the mounting is strong enough, remember that the ribbon cable feeds through strain relief, no risk of it working loose you probably could go 6x2 but 5x2 gave me 10A of connectivity, plenty with a bit of fudge factor . One consideration is the connector you use on the other side, because the plastic shroud of the connetor is large compared to the pad separation there isn't much clby m_pan - Mendel90
Aye. But all the arguments for 3-point revolve around 'as good as' and not 'better than'. If I thought it would be practical and help print quality I'd go with a 12-point ;P I just thought they'd be a low quality aluminum alloy. I can deal with pre-printing warmup time, I'm far more concerned with the stability of the temperature. Probably comparing mandarins and tangerines in the end on this onby m_pan - Mendel90
I'll gladly trade less flex and sag for a more bothersome setup. Ultimately I want my print surface to be flat and given the manufacturing tolerances of heatbeds a 4-point seems a better option if quick leveling doesn't sell me. Once finished I see my printer being about as mobile as the table saw out in my shed and I've *NEVER* felt the need to load my table saw into my truck and take it out forby m_pan - Mendel90
Quotealkempster i went for the aluminium heated bed, takes longer to warm up but i found it much easier to keep level as it doesn't flex so much. i still use a sheet of glass on top, mostly so i can change out different prepared beds for various types of filament. my heated bed takes around 16 minutes to heat up to 90C compared to around 6-7 minutes with the one i got from nophead. I will add thaby m_pan - Mendel90
Quotealkempster the bend radius is entirely dependant on the filament used, but is tighter. i would think carefully about using clones, they have benefits granted, but if nobody buys the originals it slows development. In terms of enclosing the mendel90, building to spec would make it more difficult as it wasn't designed to be enclosed. You should consider how you would enclose it if you builtby m_pan - Mendel90
1 - Aargh. I go to bed thinking I have a plan, then I wake up to something that gets me thinking in a different direction. My plan when I set out was to make sure I was willing to spend extra on certain core parts (hotend, rods, frame and electronics in my case) and to stay away from clones where ever possible. But now I'm rethinking that a bit. Since one of my goals is to work up to never havingby m_pan - Mendel90
Quotenophead 1. E3D if you want to print plastic that needs a temperature higher than 250C. J-Head if you want to print PLA. A print cooling fan is needed to print PLA and that also cools the J-Head. PLA goes soft at 55C so you need to cool the previous layer below that temperature and keep the top of the hot end below it. E3D needs a separate hot end cooling fan, different Wade's block, fan ducby m_pan - Mendel90
Okay. Not very fair on my part... I'm supposed to come here with questions, not come here and make you guess what information I might find useful. I just tend to write walls-o-text and that was an attempt at sparing you all that So... more pointed questions towards what I'm actually wondering, thoughts below... JHead or E3D? 3mm or 1.75? Suitable grade for smooth rod? M3 cap screw x 10mm? "Migby m_pan - Mendel90
So... I've been lurking around the 3D Printing community for several years now and seemed to have settled on Nops Mendel90 a couple of those years ago. Excuses for not following through were plentiful, but now that I have the time and attention for locally sourcing parts... As it stands I've contacted a local to print me the plastics for an estimate of $100 for the set, but I still need to sortby m_pan - Mendel90