Flexible tubing and clamps works fine. The important point about Z wobble is that all Z rods will have slight curvature - they are never perfect. The rods will be clamped to the Z motors at one end but, as Dale says, they should be left to wobble at the other end. Trying to put clamps or bearings on the free end to stop them from wobbling actually makes the problem worse by transmitting any slighby richgain - General
I fitted a Zalman Fan Controller to my Mendel90 and use it to manually control the speed of the part cooling fan. I had to do this because I have an LCD and Click controller attached to my Sanguinololu so I didn't have any spare pins left. It cost very little and works very well.by richgain - General
Might also be worth checking that your hobbed bolt has clean teeth.by richgain - Mendel90
I had exactly the same problem with Slic3r 0.98. Kisslicer worked perfectly though so I used that version of the gcode to print my copies. richgainby richgain - Slic3r
Very nice print. At what temperature are you extruding the ABS? I generally use 230C but have recently been playing with 240C if a piece delaminates during printing. You don't seem to have that problem. richgainby richgain - Mendel90
I suffered from the same problem when I built my machine months ago. I simply used Kapton tape round the four edges of the glass and fixed it to the bed. It has been fine ever since and I haven't had to replace it yet.by richgain - Mendel90
Dale Dunn Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Inventor and AutoCAD are far too expensive for > hobby purposes. AutoCAD isn't even really > appropriate, though it can do 3D. I use SolidWorks > at work, so I get to use it for my hobby purposes > too. > > If you want to spend a > little money, look into Alibre. I seem to remember > it's only aby richgain - 3D Design tools
Thanks, Alan. It's not great because, in spite of two fans blowing across the platform, the model was still very soft and prone to moving around as it printed. I am using the latest version of Slic3r for pretty much everything at the moment (I love the Z lift option) and printed this at 0.15 mm layer height and 0.3 mm width @ 20 mm/s. I might try again with ABS on the Mendel90 for comparison. riby richgain - Competitions
Think small My tiny Thinker on a British 5 pence coin (18 mm dia.) printed on the eMaker Huxley in PLA through a 0.5 mm nozzle. richgainby richgain - Competitions
Might be worth having a look at the Vibration Limit setting on the Printer tab of the new version of Slic3r. I think it was specifically designed to address just this problem. You first need to identify the resonant frequency and then enter it into the box. richgainby richgain - Mendel90
@Purple Kerbie - go into Preference / Advanced settings and open the Gcode tab. Make sure that the Firmware Type selector is correct for your machine. I use "5D - Relative E", which is correct for my machines but many Reprap machines use "5D - Absolute E". It depends on how your firmware is configured. richgainby richgain - Mendel90
I use both Slic3r and Kisslicer. Slic3r seems more popular, is under more active development (there hasn't been a new version of Kisslicer since June), has a nicer user interface (in my opinion) and allows greater control over individual aspects of the slicing process. However, Kisslicer is even faster at slicing, produces cleaner gcode, and reliably handles almost any STL file including ones thby richgain - Mendel90
Excellent. How about sharing a photo of the printer too? richgainby richgain - Mendel90
Hi I'm in the UK and I built my Mendel90 using polycarbonate sheet. I found that the best source was a local sign-maker who was very happy to cut the pieces to size for me and charged less than $50. I was planning to use acrylic but the supplier advised me that PC was much easier to work with (drill, tap, saw etc.) so I agreed to give it a try. I can certainly recommend it for strength, heat resby richgain - Mendel90
Dirty Steve Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > From the side wall warping it looks like you are > printing too hot. Print surface, bed temp, and > extruder temp on this print? I'm running ABS at > 220-230c with a bed temp of 110c directly on glass > build platform. > > Corner blobs can come from laying down too much > material overall, or froby richgain - Printing
Just a thought ... is your Bowden tube definitely made of PTFE? You may have to ask the supplier. PTFE is a very soft plastic - cuts very easily with a craft knife with almost no force. Also very slippery - grip a length of it between finger and thumb of both hands as tightly as possible and then pull your hands apart. PTFE tube will slip between your fingers with very little friction. PLA filameby richgain - General
The eMaker Huxley was the Indiegogo funded forerunner of the RepRapPro Huxley. The support forum is still on the www.emakershop.com website. You will find lots of examples of printed objects in the RepRap Huxley Prints folder. Here is a good example. A kit is a great way to started. I used my Huxley to print all the parts for my next printer, which is the whole ethos behind RepRap. A kilo of plaby richgain - General
@brnd - Hey, no offence taken. I agree the quality of that print wasn't one of my best, but after bothering to print it I thought I'd share it anyway. Sadly, my available time for printing is very limited at present, so I tend to set stuff up quickly, leave it going and see what happens. I'm also fairly impatient so I probably print things a bit faster than I should. Still, I'd love to spend moreby richgain - General
I've been using a Mendel90 for the last 7 months and it's great - really easy to put together. I used polycarbonate sheet instead of acrylic, bought from a local signmaker, four sheets pre-cut to size for only £30 (~$45). It's also much nicer to cut and drill than acrylic. I printed my own plastic parts on my Huxley and the rest of the kit cost me about £300. richgainby richgain - General
3eality Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > After experimenting for a while, I found out that > the extrusion from the extruder end is fine but > the extrusion from the end of the tube is not > fine. Please see two videos (1. 1. extrusion from > the tube & 2. extrusion from the extruder-without > tube2. extrusion from the extruder direct withoutby richgain - General
I switched over completely from Pronterface to Repetier Host months ago and I have never gone back. I go to the Slic3r tab and hit config to bring up the full range of slic3r settings (I'm a bit of a control freak so just having the drop down selectors isn't quite enough for me). Then I load the gcode file into Repetier, set up the 3D window to give a top-down view and then drop down to the Visuby richgain - General
I sliced my 'almost' version with Kisslicer using these settings. Hoping to get some time for another go this weekend. richgainby richgain - Competitions
In your photo it looks like an optical sensor - an infrared LED in one side and a detector in the other, with an opaque shutter such as a piece of metal that moves down between the two.by richgain - General
rogerw Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > can u please point me in the direction of a post > or doc that steps thru getting the print going The next crucial step is proper calibration. RichRap always writes great articles and this one is one of his best. There is another version of it at his richrap.com site. Also have a read of nophead's blog which is generaby richgain - General
OK, that's good to know. My glass is taped to the bed with Kapton around the edges. I've never removed it.by richgain - General
tmorris9 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Well, I just found a reason to NOT print directly > onto glass. I printed a design and the glass was > sitting on my desk cooling off and I heard a PING > sound If I read that correctly, you took the hot glass off the print bed and put it on the desk to cool off. If that is the case, I would expect some signifby richgain - General
My first attempt with a modified version of the STL file. I removed the middle four rows of links and then joined the two halves back together. Then I had to scale the model down to 95% size and finally got it to fit on a standard Mendel bed. Sadly the quality wasn't quite as good as when I printed the test square, possibly because of the scaling factor. I may get the time to have one more go wby richgain - Competitions
After I built my Mendel90, I went in search of a cheap piece of glass to use as the print bed. I was already using window glass on the Huxley fairly successfully so was thinking of doing something similar. I visited several of the charity shops in our village, browsing through the second-hand picture frames looking for something suitable. The largest one I found had a sheet of anti-reflective glaby richgain - General
richgain Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- @unlucky1 - my pleasure. Glad to have been of some help. > I use Slic3r 0.9.3 with Marlin and Repetier > and usually have the multiplier set to about 85%. > I don't understand why but it doesn't bother me now. Thanks to all the contributors. Really pleased to see that it's not me going mad. I have a much better unby richgain - General
Have a read of this page and see if you learn anything useful about M101 and M103 codes. If not, maybe try a simpler program for generating gcode, such as Slic3r.by richgain - General