I'm in the process of designing a printable model boat hull and during the process Ive had to consider waterproofing. You could print the parts using ABS and finish with acetone but I'm not sure how the final result of this process turns out. You could also use modelling putty which would require a fair bit of sanding down. Dipping into epoxy sounds like the best solution but I'm looking for smooby remondo - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
I've finally got some decent prints coming out, it was all to do with the bed not being level. I've attached a pic of the small gear from Greg's accessible extruder, it's not the best photo but you can tell it's a good quality print. I used 2 perimeters and the nut fit perfectly in the slot, I haven't tried it on a stepper motor yet though. EDIT: Here's a video of my Prusa printing . The grindinby remondo - General Mendel Topics
I noticed there was a slic3r update and gave that a go along with the 2mm retraction (I was using 1-1.5 previously). I printed a belt tensioner which came out pretty well, I'll have to give some of my other prints another go with this update. MotoBarsteward that print is very nice, congrats! As Nophead recommended previously in this post, you may want to try the Marlin Firmware, it's said to imby remondo - General Mendel Topics
You're right I did buy the machine for the challenge initially but I didn't anticipate it being so maintenance heavy once it was setup. I'll stick with it a little longer but I can't see it getting much use in the long run. Any ideas what a fully built machine goes for? I looked on ebay but couldn't find any completed listings for a fully built machine. The part about James was regarding the buiby remondo - General Mendel Topics
I'm getting pretty fed up with every print failing now. The lack of guidance from James is a real problem, I've completely lost interest in my printer already and am verging towards selling it on. I don't really have a use for anything I'm printing and Thingiverse is full of outdated and badly modelled objects with little to no instructions on print settings. If I can manage to get decent printsby remondo - General Mendel Topics
I can't thank you enough, I was having real trouble with PLA curling on delicate parts but the 80C first layer temp seems to have solved the problem.by remondo - Printing
I get this too, motobarsteward. Just wait a couple of seconds before clicking the z-axis controls after you pause it.by remondo - General Mendel Topics
MotoBarsteward I don't understand why you're having such trouble keeping the thermistor in place. I just wrapped each lead in kapton tape and bent them around the top of the nozzle and secured with a single layer of kapton. Here's a picture, it all seems to work fine.by remondo - General Mendel Topics
I haven't 'tuned' my pots as such, I just increased the current incrementally until the steppers didn't skip anymore. There's a formula here but it's too complicated for my tiny brain and it's also for Sanguinololu which may differ from the Melzi. Still having trouble with my prints, the main issue being a build up of excess filament around the nozzle which catches on the filament which has corrby remondo - General Mendel Topics
Did you press 'Set' in Pronterface next to the heatbed temp dropdown? I had the same problem and this was what I was doing wrong. Regarding the nozzle screws, just have a look at the side extruder housing on the side where the motor is mounted and you'll see 2 holes towards the bottom below the hobbed bolt hole, level with the top of the nozzle. If it's advice you're after Nophead is your man,by remondo - General Mendel Topics
Ah yes of course, yes they are tapped holes IIRC. I'll give that a go when I get home thanks.by remondo - General Mendel Topics
Ok fair enough, I hadn't seen any mention of 0.4 or 0.5mm nozzles. I was concerned because there is a forum post in which people were having issues with prints only to find that their 0.4mm nozzle as advertised was in fact 0.35mm. Can anyone shed some light on how I'm supposed to level the bed along the Y-axis? There is about 1-2mm difference from one end to the other but the Hex pillars don't aby remondo - General Mendel Topics
Keukpa I used the wiki pages mainly, I did ask James to finish the instructions in several of my emails but no reply. I am using Pronterface which has Slic3r built in and I edited and re-uploaded the Sprinter firmware (which you can download in my post above) using Arduino 0023. I suggest you use the RepRap IRC channel if you are in need of immediate help but if you'd like me to go through my metby remondo - General Mendel Topics
Ok thanks, I'll give that a go. I did think the cogs were turning too fast to make any difference. I've noticed that servicing the extruder is not an easy task because the entire thing needs to be dismantled to remove the nozzle, for example. Is there a better design that will accomodate for the J-head and allow the nozzle to be removed with ease? I'm going to print a large cog with holes in toby remondo - General Mendel Topics
I fitted 1 screw to support the nozzle as I noticed this problem too. I'm getting to grips with sprinter and pronterface now but my prints are still failing at the end of each layer where the head stops momentarily and oozes a mm or 2 of excess filament. I've tried increasing the retraction to 1.5mm at 30mm/s but it hasn't made much difference, any ideas?by remondo - General Mendel Topics
I changed that line you mentioned and the motor wotor would only turn 1 way so that is not the solution, I ended up moving the switch to the other side. I had to open a Paypal dispute before James responded to me regarding the missing parts. Just finished my first print and the results are better than expected but certainly not perfect.by remondo - General Mendel Topics
Yes, I downloaded the Melzi version from here so it was already set correctly. James just got back to me with his Sprinter files, I have attached them below. The correct thermistor tables are defined in the configuration.h file.by remondo - General Mendel Topics
I've managed to upload Sprinter to the board using Arduino 0023. The thermistor values are completely wrong now though, the extruder says 8C and the bed says -28C, hopefully James will send me his Sprinter config. The z-axis motors make noise but they won't move despite turning the pot up. The same goes for the extruder motor, it skips steps even though the pot is in the same place which worked fby remondo - General Mendel Topics
Patrick you seem to be one step ahead of me! I tried to calibrate my extruder before printing anything and it was way off, extruding nearly 40mm of plastic when I insturcted it to extrude 30mm at 50mm/min. I then contacted James to ask for his Sprinter files but if it only involves changing 2 numbers I'll just use the latest version on github. I have put my endstops on the wrong ends of the X aby remondo - General Mendel Topics
After some extremely helpful nudges in the right direction from the guys in the RepRap IRC (including kliment who developed the software) I have signs of life from the Prusa! I used Pronterface (or Windows Installer) and simply plugged the USB cable into my computer and turned the power supply on and it connected right away! I did press the button on the Melzi board which seemed to bring it to liby remondo - General Mendel Topics
I feel the same way, the kit is great once you have everything but the support is terrible. I have everything wired up and turned my PSU on but nothing happened. I have shorted the green and black wires and the psu fan spins. The voltage on the power terminals is a constant 12V on the multimeter. Do I need to switch jumper 15 to draw power from the PSU and not USB? When I plugged the USB into myby remondo - General Mendel Topics
roland: there is no need for a resistor between the green and black wires, I actually bought an ATX plug from ebay as I didn't want a rudimentary setup considering the printer will be powered on for long periods. If anything you may need a load on the 5V rail to ensure you get the full 12V which can be provided by a 4.7ohm 10W resistor between the red and black wires on a molex or sata connector.by remondo - General Mendel Topics
Hi pratick, I finally received my bearings yesterday so I got all the axes fitted with belts. I too found that one belt was too short but it actually does fit if you stretch it which is not a problem because it need to be tight. The shortest one goes on the y-axis. James needs to be made aware that one belt is too short and the other is too long! His communication was great at first but progressiby remondo - General Mendel Topics
But wait... Someone did it already.by remondo - General
Sorry yes you're right, the smooth rods fit snug once the ends are filed smooth.by remondo - General Mendel Topics
Roland, I used the original Prusa wiki page to align the z-axis smooth rods. Tie a small nut to a piece of cotton thread to create a makeshift plumb line and place it through the top smooth bar holder and hang it down towards the bottom bar clamp. Now position the bottom bar clamp so that the nut sits inside the opening for the smooth rod, ensuring the plumb line is hanging perfectly vertical.by remondo - General Mendel Topics
By the way I ordered a kit from thereprapkitstore.com and got it very quickly because I live about 20 miles away from them but the linear bearings were missing which I'm still waiting for almost a week later, with no email response from the seller. Other than that the kit was excellent but communication is poor.by remondo - General
I have to say that I like the idea of the acrylic sides but they detract away from the DIY approach of the Prusa because they have to be precisely milled on a CNC machine, as do the metal gears. There is no denying however that the RepRap printers could do with a makeover and perhaps developing into a consumer product following their proven development but there are already many consumer modelsby remondo - General
I think I just ordered those same highly rated Amazon calipers, hopefully I have better luck with mine!by remondo - Reprappers
Nice, this is how I imagined it would be possible to print multiple colours using only one extruder. Perhaps this Thing would be of interest to you. Cut notches in the sharpies to ensure the colour is applied around the circumference of the filament for better results.by remondo - Reprappers