Hey! Sorry is this is a silly question, but I have these two parts (from a gripper I am designing) that need to revolve against each other (simpler than it sounds, check the image). I used a simple screw and nut and (as expected) it becomes loose after few movements. Essentially the parts unscrew the nut. What is the easiest way to overcome? The only thing I am aware of are the nyloc nut but I dby demetris - General
Check this link Also are your X and Y axis step values in the firmware correct? Try to calibrate them.by demetris - Printing
Maybe is the layer height. What layer height are you using?by demetris - Printing
Thanks this is great. After all those months my spool is finally in its correct position. Unfortunately the spool I have now is a bit narrow and wont sit on the bearings but its working, so it ok for now. I will have to use a longer screw for to hold the bearing closer together.by demetris - Mendel90
Hello everyone, As shown in the pictures I have some printing issues . Don't mind the ugly first layer. I was testing if my knife can successfully remove excess material which clearly it can't, that is why is so ugly! 1) In this pictures you can see that the corners are raised. At first I thought I was printing too cool and the plastic was dragged along the corner however raising the temperatuby demetris - Printing
You can also try Cura. It uses Skeinforge on the background but it is more friendly. It also has bridge settings which I have personally used and work great. Version 13.03 was released a couple of days ago.by demetris - Reprappers
In my case, the fan has helped a lot in really small parts and in bridges as well. However, I believe you can get away with it if you print slower when needed. This is supported by Slic3r in the cooling options.by demetris - Slic3r
Hey Eric, I feel the same way about RepRaps. They deserve so much more credit and attention. I am throwing an idea that could be Internet friendly and could become viral. But it is centralized and therefore a person (or more) has to coordinate it. Let's say we have a design of a scale building or something interesting, something a bit large. This object is broken down into many many parts. Eachby demetris - General
DA, really sad to hear about your loss. Stay strong and build the printer for her.by demetris - General
Hi DeuxVis and THANK you for such great plug in. I was testing bridging today, and I had a bridge lower than the "No Fan use before Layer" and the fun did not start. I tested it only once though. Just wanted to let you know. Thanks againby demetris - Skeinforge
+1 for Mendel90 People here suggested me to buy it, some 25 days ago, and I am really satisfied. Solid and well designed machine. By the time I finished building it (and after a mysterious setback, my fault) I was able to print. Excellent price as well. It comes with everything you need to start printing. The support and communication is great as well. I had some questions before and after I bouby demetris - General
Thanks, unfortunately is still there. I am attaching the stl file if interested. EDIT: @Sublime: just saw your post. So you mean to print it "sideways"?by demetris - Printing
Hi Sublime thanks for the reply. I understand what you are saying, so what is you strategy to prevent that from your designs? It sounds too strange to me that this problem exists because people here exhibit some great results with Skeinforge. There has to be a solution. thanksby demetris - Printing
Terrykid, if you have problem with objects sticking, try using brim (for Slic3r) or raft (for Skeinforge). I had similar problems with objects slipping off and destroying the print until I started using brim. I prefer brim over the raft because it is much easier to remove. Look in the skeinforge sub forum, there is a plugin by a member of our community that does brim in Skeinforge as well.by demetris - Printing
Hmmm, I am at work now, but I think I have the Diaphragm set to 100 layers. The thing I printed was about 15 or so layers. Last night I printed another object and the same thing happened but this time, the empty space is visible (i.e. not on the inside of the object). I will post a picture when I go home.by demetris - Printing
Hello, This weekend I tried to learn skeinforge. Really powerful application! However, I noticed weird infill behavior shown in the picture attached. I am printing with 10% infill. The bottom and top layer infills are fine and filled 100% as they should. Somewhere in the middle of the design SK has a solid infill again (? I guess it prepares for the next layers ?) but leaves a corner unfilled cby demetris - Printing
Thanks everyone for your suggestions. I switched to a shorter cable, and I screw the connectors again. Mine was a bit loose as well. So far today, no disconnections! @nophead Interesting tip for the SD. I am still calibrating though! When I print something serious I will send it to SD for sure then.by demetris - Mendel90
Unfortunately I am here for the same reason. daichiasuka try switching USB port or use a different cable. I am now using a much shorter cable, so far no disconnects.by demetris - Mendel90
Ok thanks guys will try that. Btw what speeds settings are you using? For perimeter and infill? Thanksby demetris - Mendel90
Hello everyone! I was wondering what speeds are you using for printing? Yesterday I did some tests using 60mm/s for perimeter and 90mm/s for infill. The print got out great (wow, so happy!) but during the print the machine generated strong vibrations during the infill. So strong that I was afraid not to damage itself! I don't know if this is normal and that is why I am posting . So, what doby demetris - Mendel90
Sorry for the bump, but I wanted to thank you all for your help. I went with Mendel90 and I am really happy with it. So far it has been a great experience! Thanks again guys. I appreciate you help.by demetris - General
I understand what you are saying, and I think I now understand better how it works. As you said I took some measurements and reduced the total height error to 0.05 ~ 0.01mm by lower the Z_HOME firmware parameter (i.e. raising the nozzle) by 0.1. Now as I understand it, to reduce the width I will have to decrease the flow rate. I will report back with the results.by demetris - Printing
Hi Rob, I know you said you calibrated Z, but is it possible to be too low and as a result the plastic has no room and therefore goes sideways? So when it meets other plastic at the table it goes up and in the gets in the way of nozzle. Demetrisby demetris - Printing
Hi nophead, I guess I still don't understand how the height and width of a line are formed. I printed the 0.5mm wall calibration cube as shown in the (really bad, sorry) attached picture, with some brim or else it wouldn't stick. My settings are: layer height: 0.3mm perimeter extrusion width: 0.42mm Cube Measurements: Design height: 10mm Measured height: 9.75mm Design width: 22.5mm Measured wiby demetris - Printing
Hi jcabrer and thanks for the reply. I am using J-Head nozzle. 1-The small gear seems to work fine. I will test what you suggest in 2 tomorrow. From what I remember I did left the nozzle hot for a while (half an hour maybe?). If it is indeed a backflow problem, how do you get it fixed? Thank you!by demetris - General
Hello everyone, Until this morning I was printing ok and I was calibrating away. At some point my extruder started extruding only TINY amount of filament. For many hours I thought that was because of some settings I was changing in Slic3r. After I couldn't solve the problem whatever I changed in Slic3r, I thought that maybe the problem is something else. I tried to print some gcodes that I hadby demetris - General
Hello everyone, this is my first post as a proud owner of Mendel90 I have printed some really basic stuff so far and I wanted to start calibrating more. I tried to print an object (a small spanner). The result is really good for my current status but I noticed that the height and width are wrong. What is confusing to me, is that the height is shorter and the width is longer! Check out the photby demetris - Printing
It already has! Thank you for the nice write-up of the process. marcosscriven Wrote: > > +1 for the Mendel90. I blogged about my > experiences building it, which might help your > decision. > >by demetris - General
Thanks tprime and Mark for the replies. Mark that build log you have posted is great! I might buy Mendel90 after all. I have the same experience and confidence (medium-low that is!) as the author of that build log. Nice read.by demetris - General
Hello everyone! I decided to go ahead a buy a printer since i cannot fight the urge anymore! Unfortunately, not much funds available so I am going for about sub 700 Euros (~$1000, ~GBP600). I am looking at my options right now and I wanted to ask about 3d printer shops (kits or assembled) located in UK (or other english speaking shops in Europe). The reason are the high customs charges in my couby demetris - General