$fn overrides $fa and $fs; if you've set $fn then the other two are ignored. I usually set $fa to 5 (72 sides to a circle) and $fs to 1.0 (1mm minimum segment size) as this gives a nice balance for most objects that I print. I can then set $fn at the top of my code to a nice low number for quick previews, or override it in individual calls to give me automatically generated convex polygons. Iby QuackingPlums - OpenSCAD
Wow, good work Neil! I've had it on my to-do list for a while now to go through and try your settings as I am noticing more fractures and general wear on my stock parts so it’s only a matter of time before I will need to replace them. Out of curiosity (ok, maybe a sprinkling of laziness), is there anything specific about the way you've tricked Skeinforge into stretching the filament by specifyiby QuackingPlums - Mendel90
I haven't used VNC in a long time. FWIW, you can enable X11 forwarding over SSH on PuTTY and OSX supports X11 natively, so having applications running on your Pi showing up directly on your desktop/laptop is not limited to linux... I don't find it any slower than any of the remote desktop solutionsby QuackingPlums - Mendel90
Home is just a gcode command (G28 I think) and yes the P2 does have this as one of the default menu options. There is also a movement menu that lets you jog each axis by 0.1mm, 1mm and 10mm increments (Z is limited to 0.1mm and 1mm increments because it is slower). I don't know why you would want to reset the Z0 position manually - you can certainly do that from gcode but it's better to have thby QuackingPlums - Mendel90
You can even put them in different folders (something that OctoPrint could do with supporting!) and navigate around them using the jog dial. I keep my regularly printed items in different folders named after a unique code that I assign to each reel of filament - it allows me to quickly find the right gcode for an object that has been sliced with settings specific to each colour, etc.by QuackingPlums - Mendel90
I also asked this question on the OpenSCAD mailing list - the consensus is that straight single-thread speed is what will get you the fastest rendering, and that to re-engineer the various dependencies is quite a complex task (and already on the backlog).by QuackingPlums - OpenSCAD
I have OpenSCAD installed on one of my SLI rigs and can honestly say that it doesn't appear significantly faster on this than on my MBP. My GPU monitors show no significant increase in activity across even one of the cards, never mind across all of them. If there's an option to tell OpenSCAD to run on my GPUs instead then I'd like to know about it! EDIT: Just ran a quick test with one of my earby QuackingPlums - OpenSCAD
I notice on my machine that when the nozzle is at the back right corner (nearest the PSU) it is closer to the edge of the PCB than the other three edges so I align my glass to that corner. I have implemented the anti-ooze start/nozzle wipe in my start.gcode and although this wipes the nozzle as close to the front edge of the glass as I dare to go, it still results in some reduction in the maximuby QuackingPlums - Mendel90
If you can power your Mendel90 and Pi then a simple ethernet cable will give you a connection to your laptop - and if your laptop doesn't have an ethernet port then a $10 wifi dongle will enable it on the Pi. The laptop isn't tied up during the print job unless you plan on sitting there and watching it throughout the job (sounds like an blast of a camping trip if you do! ) and it sounds like yby QuackingPlums - Mendel90
Hmm. Check that you haven't got a hidden "Hardware" folder at the same level as your "libraries" folder? To my knowledge the standard Arduino IDE doesn't contain the hardware definitions from Chris' variant - I had to copy the hardware folder to this location in order to see the Melzi in the boards list. This may have changed since I built mine though. In any case, that folder *should* be the riby QuackingPlums - Mendel90
We're following each other around this morning... That's fair enough. I find that I don't use most of the features of either OctoPrint or my Panelolu during 99% of all my printing activity, but the seamless transition from model to slice to starting a job is what I find valuable (because I would otherwise have to keep coming back to the room where my printer is located). I'm sure the Pi *can*by QuackingPlums - Mendel90
QuoteRich K. okay, I don'y have a "c:\documents\arduino" folder, so I don't know where to copy the required files to now... I'm not in front of my Windows machines right now but I think that should be C:\Users\MyUserName\Documents\Arduinoby QuackingPlums - Mendel90
If you run Printrun/Pronterface 'locally' on your printer, you will still need to get the sliced G-code over to the machine and trigger the print job. If you are happy with this workflow (as I was for many months before I setup my OctoPi) then as Neil says, Panelolu will do the job in a very neat, standalone way; simply copy your gcode onto an SD card, slot it into the Panelolu and select the jobby QuackingPlums - Mendel90
Ah, it makes sense now that you've centered the text - you should have done that in your first post. Seriously though, I still don't understand what it is you want. From your latest post I gather: 1. You want both models as shown above? The one on the right will be very difficult to print even if it slices correctly - too many long bridges in whichever orientation (think molten plastic, the lby QuackingPlums - Slic3r
I'm pretty sure that Intel ICH8 PCI Express port is something else. Does it come and go when you install your FTDI VCP driver? You keep mentioning that you install a driver that assigns a COM port, but that doesn't sound like the process I've gone through on any of my machines. I can only imagine that it is different on other versions of Windows? Which version do you use? All I had to do was inby QuackingPlums - Mendel90
Hmm. I just noticed you have a different looking Device Manager screen - it's missing the Ports (COM & LPT) section. Which version of Windows are you using? If I keep my Device Manager open (Win7 64-bit) with the Ports section expanded then a new COM port appears when I plug in the Melzi. When I had the wrong driver loaded there was actually another COM port in there that the Arduino IDE wasby QuackingPlums - Mendel90
Have you installed any other virtual com port software recently? I have been messing about with a bunch of other stuff since the previous time I flashed my Melzi and can only surmise that one of those things 'upgraded' my FTDI drivers with a version that doesn't work with my IDE/Melzi combination because when I tried to make some Panelolu menu changes recently it also failed to connect. Luckily Iby QuackingPlums - Mendel90
I can't remember if later kits came with a revised firmware that supports the P2, but forum user neildarlow maintains a fork here that incorporates the Nophead's changes and P2 support into the latest Marlin build. EDIT: haha Alan beat me to it!by QuackingPlums - Mendel90
It sounds like you need to better describe what you want. You talked about a horizontal shape but then you posted an STL that still contained the whole model. Your STL looks like this when loaded into Repetier (I don't use Pronterface but it's close enough): Did you want the whole model or just the thing on the left?by QuackingPlums - Slic3r
QuoteThorsenRune Omar, for sketchup I use stl4su.rb plugin. You will download it from Its very easy then to just export the sketchup to a stl file. If you're using SketchupMake (if not, why not?) then there is a direct link to the Extension Warehouse from the Tools menu, from which you can install plugins directly without having to download ruby files from GitHub any more. There's an STL importby QuackingPlums - Slic3r
What do you mean by "gone through"? What actually fails? Mine has had a crack in the right side where the bearing goes in for over a year, but as there's no pressure or strain there it doesn't affect how it operates. The cracks that are developing around my z-motor brackets and lead-screw clamps is more of a worry...by QuackingPlums - Mendel90
I didn't redraw the model for you (you'll have to do that yourself) - I just exported the bit you wanted as an STL. If the dimensions are correct then you can simply scale by percentage before you slice it. This is what this stl looks like if I load it into Repetier:by QuackingPlums - Slic3r
I have both. The Panelolu2 is great for showing me what's going on and running simple operations (jogging the axes around, setting temperatures, swapping filaments etc) and the in-built card reader makes it easy to start jobs from an SD card. I still need to move the SD card between my laptop/desktop/slicing machine and my Panelolu2, but for things where I might print multiples or repeat the jobby QuackingPlums - Mendel90
There were multiple items in your .skp file. I'm guessing you want the 2D 'flat' version of it like this?:by QuackingPlums - Slic3r
A 5V line is useful if you ever want to run a Raspberry Pi (or anything USB powered) - I regret cutting mine so short now as I have to dismantle it to get at a spare wire or tap into one of the load resistors. My OctoPi is currently still running off a spare Samsung micro-USB adapter as a result. At the very least, cut them short and insulate using heat shrink but leave enough that it's easy toby QuackingPlums - Mendel90
He edited the first post - his jumper was broken so the upload hadn't succeeded despite it saying "finished".by QuackingPlums - Mendel90
The important thing is having a good connection to the terminal, as a loose or partial connection may cause arcing or at least increase the resistance of the connection. When bundling together my main power wires I worked out the maximum diameter or wire that would fit into the terminal and left this amount extending from the main bundle - I think this worked out to be about 90% of the wires comby QuackingPlums - Mendel90
Quotenophead You can also force all the values to the firmware default with an M code. Is that the M502 "revert to default factory settings" code as shown here, where "factory settings" is what is set in my firmware?: . If I run M502 and then start a print, will the settings 'stick' or will the act of starting a print force a reload of the EEPROM settings again? I guess my issue now is that Iby QuackingPlums - Mendel90
Saw this on the news today and was intrigued at the 3D printed aspect of it: Looked up the PiKon website but it didn't really provide much more information that was of interest: Then thought I'd see if they have a Facebook presence and saw...: I hope those links work because Chris should be pretty pleased that they chose such a fantastic printer!by QuackingPlums - Mendel90
If I just turn it off again in the firmware then will that stop it loading my settings? I actually don't remember turning it on - I wonder if I inherited it when I merged the T3P3 Panelolu code. It must have been lying dormant for over a year because it was only recently that I found the Preheat PLA/ABS settings in the menu and thought it would be handy to set those to my start temperatures.by QuackingPlums - Mendel90