Right, now that I have re-read your first post I see that you're trying to print from Pronterface rather than Repetier. Repetier includes its own version of Slic3r but Pronterface does not as far as I know - it certainly doesn't install it into those default paths if it does. Just download Slic3r and drop it into your Applications folder as per its instructions and those paths should then work.by QuackingPlums - Mendel90
I created a guide for setting up on OSX here: http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?292,208858by QuackingPlums - Mendel90
If there aren't any freely available then I can make one up quickly. I've got a busy weekend ahead of me though so it'll be next week before I can start.by QuackingPlums - Mendel90
Sure, no problem. I have been developing a library of my own functions and modules which are evolving over time, and on which this model depends. Let me refactor the dependencies out of it so that it looks cleaner and I'll post it up here later. EDIT: turns out it doesn't use that many of my library functions so it didn't take that long! Here it is:by QuackingPlums - Mendel90
As requested in another thread, here is the STL for my fan duct. I found that having the air directed down and across the plate helps cool the object to its 'popping off' point much quicker, and if I'm in a real hurry then I can even remove the wadding from under the bed which reduces the cooling down time even further. The exit aperture is the same CSA as the circular disc as scribed by the bby QuackingPlums - Mendel90
This is looking really good! I hope you're saving all the modified design files for us so that we can print our own once you've done all the hard work! @ElectroWomble: sure, I'll stick the STL files for the cowl in another thread somewhere.by QuackingPlums - Mendel90
Quotenophead Yes I think it will cool faster on the inside and the only purpose of the fan is to speed things up. I created a cowl to direct the air across the bed, which I find cools the object to its 'popping off' point even quicker. In this configuration my fan is on the outside and the guard on the outside of that (the cowl stops me getting my fingers anywhere near the blades). The cowl iby QuackingPlums - Mendel90
As I said in an earlier post, the two Molex KK headers on the Panelolu2-Melzi adapter board map to GPIO pins P27 and P28. If you have the Panelolu2 wired up with 12V then you can simply plug the fan into one of these headers and switch it using the codes I posted earlier. If you don't have 12V going into the Panelolu2 then you need to split the fan lead and run 12V directly from a spare 12V lineby QuackingPlums - Mendel90
Printer Settings >> Custom G-code >> End G-code Anything you enter into that box gets appended to the end of your .gcode file when you slice an object.by QuackingPlums - Mendel90
So are you saying that this behaviour happens in both Repetier and Pronterface when you initiate auto-home? If so then all the symptoms point to the bar clamp - this is a common issue for newly built machines (including my own!) Please humour me and eliminate this first, because if the switch works when pressed manually then the easiest thing to check is that the bearing mount is striking the sby QuackingPlums - Mendel90
What happens if you set it to home but press the button manually before it hits?by QuackingPlums - Mendel90
Try loosening the front clamp and pushing it gently towards the back before tightening the clamp again. You've probably just got the clamp at an angle that prevents the switch from fully engaging.by QuackingPlums - Mendel90
Quote3Design At moment i'm trying to control a post print fan to cool down the print bed after printing with the P2 but i can't install a 12 V output. Can someone explain me how i can control a fan with the P2 What do you mean by "install a 12V output"? There are two KK Molex headers on the P2/Melzi adapter which map to IO pins P27 and P28. You can use these to switch a 12V fan (or LEDs) in gcodby QuackingPlums - Mendel90
Do those systems run other wires parallel to and in close proximity to the stepper motor wires? If they don't then it doesn't matter, since the aim of twisting is to reduce the induced current in signal-carrying wires nearby.by QuackingPlums - Mendel90
Do you mean like this?: The only case I can imagine where the sides could be straight would be the cross-section down the middle of the nozzle, where we are essentially extruding a vertical cylinder of plastic for the miniscule time before it hits the surface below and gets dragged out into a horizontal line. For printing purposes I think we are more interested in the cross-section as it leaveby QuackingPlums - Slic3r
It was actually Richard's blog that steered me away from buying a commercial printer and towards the reprap community. I had read his post about his heated chamber when he first put it up but have been waiting ever since to see evidence that this results in better prints at the edges of the bed - at the moment with just green PET tape and a draught-free room in my house I am already happy withby QuackingPlums - Mendel90
Hmm.Now I have even more questions! Have any of these been answered already?: Does a heated chamber at, say 45C reduce the temperature gradient across the bed? i.e. would it be easier to hit 110C at the corners if the ambient temperature within the enclosure was higher? If I could somehow ensure the bed stayed above Tg for the first layer, would the temperature gradient for subsequent layers beby QuackingPlums - Mendel90
Hmm. I ran the same gcode through for comparison but this time with cardboard baffles around the corners, with no noticeable improvement. Whilst my cardboard baffles are flush with the square corners of the bed they are probably still too far away from the job, unlike the printed ones that Chris uses. Interestingly, my object consists of a solid layer of about 4mm thick, with some strengtheninby QuackingPlums - Mendel90
That's interesting. I even remember reading that post during an earlier hunt for information but I was looking for something else at the time so it didn't occur to me that it's another symptom of the same problem. Unfortunately this time I have an item that is 1mm away from the edge of my glass so I have no room for baffles. I wonder if the cushion of warmer air is what helps it stick or the prby QuackingPlums - Mendel90
Has anyone successfully printed all the way to the edges using a stock M90 without an enclosure? I've been printing solely ABS for over a year now using green PET tape on IKEA SORLI 3mm glass mirror tiles but only for items that stay at least ~40mm away from the edges. Any attempts at printing all the way to the edges has resulted in significant lifting and unusable objects. I am happy with everby QuackingPlums - Mendel90
Just wondering how people calculate dimensions and compensate for die swell etc so that when sliced the filament is laid in the right place. Let's take a canonical example of a hollow box with a lid, where the lid sits with flush sides to the base by incorporating a lip that is half the thickness of the walls of the base. With the right dimensions I should be able to get a good friction fit, espby QuackingPlums - Slic3r
Looks good on both my Nexus 7 (1st gen) and Asus MeMO HD 7. Great work! Some (possibly naive) questions: Why does it only support a subset of the OpenSCAD functions? Does it use the actual OpenSCAD codebase or are you having to implement each feature independently? Will it eventually keep up with the full/current OpenSCAD feature set? Any intention to support GitHub/BitBucket? I keep all my .sby QuackingPlums - OpenSCAD
The other problem with printing small objects is that each layer doesn't have time to cool before the next one is laid on top. When this happens, elements such as overhangs will curl upwards as more hot filament is laid on top. It looks like this is what is causing the ears to deform. You can sometimes reduce this effect by using the fan or increasing the number of items you print simultaneouslyby QuackingPlums - Mendel90
Support is a PITA when using PLA. I'm not even sure there is a satisfactory solution to it because I switched to ABS quite soon after. One of the biggest problems is that it bonds so well that support material tends to be hard to remove - which is exactly what you found. Was there any support under the chin and ears? I can't see where it stood if there was. In any case, it looks like there was sby QuackingPlums - Mendel90
Right, so now we're talking about the same features, one which is as you say provided by a free tool and one that costs real money. Given that this is the RepRap forum and not the "I spent $10,000 on a commercial printer because I could" forum you can probably understand why we like the free stuff... Put another way, why would I spend all that money on a commercial tool to do the same job thatby QuackingPlums - OpenSCAD
Ok, sounds and looks like a first layer adhesion problem. The circular edge of your pedestal isn't sticking down and it looks like the blobbing is the result of the thin support material coming unstuck and being dragged around. You can try cranking up first layer temperature first - remember that the top of the glass is cooler than the bottom of the PCB, where the reading is taken. If you have aby QuackingPlums - Mendel90
What is the model you are printing? The blobbing could be the start of the support material for an overhand higher up the layers, but which isn't sticking to the bed? I'd expect the bottom of the print to be a bit smoother than that shown in your pictures - if your flow rate isn't right or your first layer thickness is off then thin/single beads of plastic will have difficulty adhering to the beby QuackingPlums - Mendel90
Nophead's excellent Mendel90 is modelled entirely in OpenSCAD. The benefit of doing this is that if we want to scale the model then all we have to provide it are the dimensions of a few basic components - the heated bed, the motors being used, the diameters of the steel rods, etc. The ENTIRE model is then redrawn with the correct dimensions, holes, etc, plus it produces a bill of materials to booby QuackingPlums - OpenSCAD
Is there a TL;DR version which compares the relative toxicity of PLA/ABS nano-particles with say, sitting next to a laser printer, or having the window open next to a busy city street or even just in an office that has air-conditioning? I'm not disputing the science - it'd just be nice if they produced versions for those of us who don't have a solid background in what is considered "normal"...by QuackingPlums - Mendel90
Does PLA pose the same risk or is it just ABS? If you don't use the fan with ABS (I find that I don't need it) and if the toxicity only applies to this material then the standard overhead fume extraction method won't be such a problem as there won't be a force airflow near the bed to play havoc with the fluid dynamics... Also, if it's just extraction you need rather than temperature control theby QuackingPlums - Mendel90