Thanks! I thought about that possibility. So I'll go for it. Thanks a lot! /Davidby dawa - Mendel90
Hi again. I saw this quite similar thread: So, I think I'll try to repair my hotend. Just asking for some advice about hotend repair: 1. how to remove baked (if it is baked, I'm not sure) plastic from the brass part of the hotend? Would it be possible? 2. Is it hard to separate the hotend's plastic and the brass parts from each other? 3. Can I reuse the "self fusing silicone tape", just temporaby dawa - Mendel90
Hello, Today I tried to print the gauntlet of the "Raptor hand" (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:476403) in scale 130%, to donate to the e-nable project. It is difficult! Has anyone tried? Lots of bridging and overhang. Hard to get a nice surface. After hours of printing the last part, I went for a short walk (I shouln't have done that). The head was about 15 mm over the object, but no plasticby dawa - Mendel90
Hello, I printed one layer near the edges of the plate, and it was fairly ok. within about 0.05 mm. Then I tried to raise the temp to 200 degrees, and now it works much better! But I still see that the ouline bends up a bit in its end, when the printhead moves away quickly in order to start the "real" print. Is there a missing retract there? I tried 205 degrees, but it started to get hairy in a cby dawa - Mendel90
Hello, Thanks! Yes it would be great to try your settings to compare with mine. The same filament doesnt string with skeinforge on the same print, so it is not the filemant's fault, when it somes to stringing. I am starting to suspect my bed has lost the level adjustment, I have to recalibrate it to be sure. I'll try calibrating by printing one layer near the plate's corners. It is hard to guessby dawa - Mendel90
I set the retract to 0.5 mm 40 mm/s as you suggested minimales, but the result is the same. Kind of "hairy". Could it be over extrusion? Doest it really matter what you enter as "E_STEPS_PER_MM"? in Cura? it is already in the firmware, what does cura do with it?by dawa - Mendel90
I tried the Retract file you sent with Cura. There is no stringing in the sense I showed from my very small print. but on Retract2.jpg one can see on the shadow to the right that one bridging string got lost, I think when the second layer came on. and in Retract2,jog one can see in the holes that there are small unveven nags along the edges. Otherwise I am surprised it went quite well! Since I hby dawa - Mendel90
Thanks! Nice example file! I'll try. It also tests bridging. Actually I need to enhance that too. I tried a bridge of 100 mm, and it worked. But the first layer printed in thin air starts to hang down a bit when the second layer is printed on top of it. Could it be that it expands by the heat fron the second layer?by dawa - Mendel90
Looks nice! I had retract on, and I looked at the layer visualization, and I could see the retract lines. I also saw the extruder going backwards during the print, which should correspond to retracts. Probably the wrong values somewhere. I found batteries for my old digital camera... so here are two pictures of the thing. I attach gcode too. The two pictures are the result of slicing with Cura.by dawa - Mendel90
Thanks, I understand. I just tried some prints of the same model with Cura and SF, and SF gives much better result, no stringing. This may be because of my lacking configuration skills. But I can actually see that even the Cura sliced object does retracts during the print. There should really be a fast slicer for repraps, not written in python. If I get time, knowlegde and energy, I will write onby dawa - Mendel90
Hello, I just tried Cura 14.09 with the settings provided in this thread, by ecooak and Neil Darlow. Thanks! I works! I would be good if nophead could put the "latest cura settings" on his blog or somwhere easy to find, where it could be maintained. I think many mendel90 users would benefit and could also contribute. (Even if cura is inaccurate for layer height 0.3, it is *way* faster than skeiby dawa - Mendel90
Hi, Now I have levelled the bed focusing on the corners, first I made the two left corners have the same hight, and the the right corners, independently of the left ones. Then I turned the threaded rods to adjust between the two corner pairs. I iterated all this a number of times until it stabilized decently. Now it seems to work, and the layer height is 0.28 - 0.29 on a small circle in the middby dawa - Mendel90
Sorry, I homed it again and now the pointers are correct. Hmm ... strange. I dont remember how it was interrupted yesterday...by dawa - Mendel90
I just noticed something odd: the pointers at the threaded rods have turned ~85 degrees clockwise (seen from above) since I adjusted them. After that I made a few prints, two aborted and one successful. It seems when the system is in the home position, and I press home in pronterface, that the motors hit the endstops a bit too hard, and then some steps or some mechanics loses grip? The end stop mby dawa - Mendel90
Ok, I see. Many new points here, thanks all! There are a lot of things to try :-) The printer stands on a bureau, and I think it's flat, and horizontal in in both X and Y according to my bubble level. And it is not at all wobbly. But it could be that the Y bars are not parallel, and they have no adjustment. If it's only up to the corners, it should be enough to twist the right threaded rod untiby dawa - Mendel90
Thanks! Ok, so even if the diff between the lowest and highest point on my glass plate is 0.14 mm, it shouldn't harm the print? Or should I try to calibrate even more? Otherwise I thought I could print in the lower left quadrant of the plate, where it is not varying so much. I guess it is more sensitive for thinner layers, like 0.2? Or is it evened out after the first layer? BR, Davidby dawa - Mendel90
Hello, I mounted a dial gauge in place of the extruder as adviced in the mendel90 manual. My dial gauge turned out to have a too short feeler, so I had to mount the clamp from underneath the x carriage with some distance rings to make the feeler as low as possible, and in addition I fooled the Z_HOME_POS to be a few cm lower. The plastic pointers on the threaded rods almost hit the x-motor/idlerby dawa - Mendel90
Thanks! Good points!by dawa - Mendel90
Hello, It seems that it is hard to find a way to adjust the level of the extruder fan and the bulldog clips on the glass plate, so that they don't crash into each other. Yet, I only had nice and small prints, when this is not a problem. But If I want to use the whole xy plane, then I guess it is a problem. Any tips how to deal with it? Right now my fan is hanging down a bit, so I can adjust it aby dawa - Mendel90
Hi, i recently tried 24% acetic acid (for PLA), and it works GREAT!!! I really recommend it. Things really stick to the plate. This did it. It is *much* easier to get it work than with acetone. I got this advice from a very nice Swedish electronics geek forum, and they used 12% acetic acid. Sometimes this is called vinegar, which confuses me, since it is also a word for some cooking ingredient.by dawa - Mendel90
I got it working with nopheads default settings in skeinforge, both 0.3 and 0.2. (only PLA yet) I went into the ~/.skeinforge/profiles/extrusion directory and made backup copies of all the profiles before starting skeinforge. I think I messed up the files before, since it seems that skeinforge changed settings instantly when I just thought I made temporary changes in the GUI. It is easy to restorby dawa - Mendel90
I wonder if the cloth plays a role. I used acetone with toilet paper, but the PLA doesnt stick well, then. I couldn't see any traces of paper, so it shouldn't matter, I thought. Now I tried ordinary window cleaning lotion, based on anjon tensid/alcohol (I don't know the Enlish terms here). That works well, and I used a kind of wowen synthetic cloth that is commonly used for cleaning tables and sby dawa - Mendel90
Hi, I just added point 9! See above :-) Davidby dawa - Mendel90
Hello, I just installed the emacs mode for openSCAD from here. I try to indent, but it only moves to the first column. How is it indented to indent? The indentation it gives me must be wrong? Is this tested? BR, davidby dawa - OpenSCAD
Awesome to read !! :-) At point 9, the user can add some new aspect that I might have missed ;-)by dawa - Mendel90
Thanks! Are you using Linux/Windows/Mac?by dawa - Mendel90
Hello, I wonder under what conditions it is safe to move the "firmware jumper" on the Melzi. Do you have to turn off the power / reset before/after? /Davidby dawa - Mendel90
1. Operating system + version. ubuntu 12.04 2. 3D modelling software still learning: openscad, blender, wings3d. 3. Slicer software + special settings still trying to learn the default 9. how I got it/building experience: nopheads kit. Reading and following the manual was a great experience! Crisp, and to the point. Nothing is there without a purpose! Nice that everything can be viewed in openby dawa - Mendel90