Heat resistant tape? for what?by akhlut - Reprappers
I agree - exposure to the elements might significantly limit any printed parts life expectancy. ABS is probably the way to go if you had to. You could use a PC fan, but then you need a vane to point into the wind. Problem is measuring light winds - the internal resistance of the fan would prevent it from picking up those small puffs of air. Anemometers are nearly friction-less (depending onby akhlut - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Looks great! The makerslide looks very interesting - can't wait to see how you tackle the build.by akhlut - General Mendel Topics
Hooray! Thanks egenoup!by akhlut - General Mendel Topics
I guess you could, but an average bed temp isn't really all that useful. How to alleviate hotspots/coldspots? I notice a 30C change from the center of my heated bed to the edge. If I could independently boost the edge temp to match the center temp I'd be very happy. Wheels are turning.by akhlut - General
Yep. That should work - four peltier elements on a cast aluminum bed would be an interesting experiment.by akhlut - General
Is this possible? Sure. You'd need a custom heatbed, but controlling each bank of power resistors shouldn't be that hard. The PID software allows for autotuning, so that should make stabilizing the heatbed temperature pretty easy. An arduino UNO has 6 analog ins and 6 PWM outputs, giving you 6 zones of control. Should be fairly straightforward. Might even slave an UNO off of RAMPS. Food foby akhlut - General
I'd agree with Tramflung. Do your research and then source the parts individually. Talk to your shop teacher about the project (assuming there is one) and see if you can use some of the schools tools - if you can you'll be ahead of the game. Better yet, co-op the shop teacher into helping you out - maybe he's never seen a 3d printer. Assuming you wind up with a Prusa the only pre-fabbed iteby akhlut - General Mendel Topics
You need Printrun. Follow the link and follow the directions. Very easy. Maybe the trimpots are up too high for the y motor. You'll need to adjust them anyway.by akhlut - General
Yeah, I was thinking about that after I posted it - that the resolution is really a combination of the x-y plane/extruder/hotend quality/software. Basically, it comes down to the ability to properly tune the machine, which limits to the resolution achievable by the measurement tool of choice. I've seen calipers that can achieve a resolution of 0.005, but the price for that added 0.005mm is aboutby akhlut - General
I've been able to get the Z-axis resolution can get down to 0.1mm reliably, but others like richrap have gotten well below that. As far as x/y resolution it depends on the variables of your printer, including stepper resolution, amount of micro-stepping used by the electronics, belt tooth resolution and pulley size. For example, if you have a 1.8 degree stepper using 1/16th micro-stepping and aby akhlut - General
Yes there is a way. If you've got around $40 you can do it pretty easily. Check my blog. Schematic and code is there.by akhlut - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
I'm not sure lowes even carries the stuff. mcmaster.comby akhlut - Reprappers
Beautiful. Can't wait to see it print!by akhlut - Delta Machines
Cool. Building a new reprap now, but I think an eggbot is my next build (cheap, fun and useful for decorative arts - the spouse will love it). Glad to hear you've got it moving. Have you done any documentation of your build? That'd be a great resource for those following in your footsteps!by akhlut - General
Yes, yes they will. Supplier of last resort.by akhlut - Reprappers
How'd you make out? I'd like to make one for this christmas.by akhlut - General
Cool. Are you in US? did you order the SAE kit or metric?by akhlut - Reprappers
The filament you will use is dependent on the hotend that you have. The makerfarm kit comes with a J-head (very nice), and it's probably a 3mm. Definitely verify that before you order filament. That stuff on amazon is pretty well priced for a kilo. Crap! Don't order yet. You're going to need these from sparkfun as well: (4) @ 0.45 = $1.80 PRT-08097 (Order 4 minimum) (2) @ 1.95 =by akhlut - Reprappers
Nice.by akhlut - Look what I made!
91252A230 - Must have copied the part number incorrectly. 5/16" washer with 1.25" OD I'd still get the zipties, maybe a variety pack from home creepo or lowes instead of mcmaster - they are really useful in securing the sleeving and temping stuff up. That makerfarm kit is a pretty good price - you just need the threaded and smooth rods, the steppers and a power supply. Which electronics pacby akhlut - Reprappers
Personally, I sourced most of my parts from mcmaster, SDP-SI, makerfarm and sparkfun. The makerfarm kits seem pretty good as Bantha has suggested. I bought by plastic bits from them, as well as the Gen6 board, bearings and hotend. Got the steppers from sparkfun, and the hardware from mcmaster. Line 3 - Don't order - won't work. Trust me. Try 91252A230 Line 13 - Don't get your bearings frby akhlut - Reprappers
Hold onto them for your next extruder or machine. You will wind up with both eventually.by akhlut - General Mendel Topics
Looks good! You're about half way there - the rest of the hardware is fairly easy. It's the electronics that can be a pain and may eat a significant chunk of time. How'd you make out with the hobbed bolt?by akhlut - General Mendel Topics
This happens on this object only or all objects? When was the last time you adjusted the potentiometers on you stepper drivers? Maybe something got bumped?by akhlut - Reprappers
Yes, the tubing is supposed to go over the stepper shafts. 30mm is a little short for both motors. Maybe cut it in half and slide it on. What's the worst that will happen? You'll need to get some more tubing. It's fairly cheap, and if you're lucky is sold to length. Don't be afraid to make mistakes - at least inexpensive ones! : ) The springs for the z-axis aren't necessary, but are recby akhlut - General Mendel Topics
Nophead, I agree with you. But aren't the process for constructing those items are very different from RepRap? Laminates is probably the most apt example, but the process of making a laminate floor is very different, even if the concept of laying down the material in layers is the same. Tubes are naturally strong - bamboo or extruded ABS are good examples there. And bones are more complex thaby akhlut - General
wolfkeeper Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I doubt that a lot of that infill is doing so very > much, most of the strength and rigidity of a part > is in the skin- making the parts bigger, with more > air inside, generally makes them cheaper and > stronger. I'm not so sure about that assertion - the solid fills/perimeters support/hold the part togeby akhlut - General