Quoteromels33I saw that in the link provided by madmike in the other thread I mentioned (http://www.marlinfirmware.org/configurator/), there seem be some issues when I try to used this site to generate the config.h file. I'm not entirely surprised. The configurator is really out-of-date right now. Over the last few months we've been doing a lot of overhaul of the Configuration files – mainly toby Thinkyhead - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Hi Alan. I responded immediately by using my email client's Reply button on July 20th, 6 working days ago, but apparently it didn't make it to you. It was a busy weekend —both life-wise and with Marlin— and I simply had not heard from you until today since my reply to your communication. As it happens I am only today catching up on my email from Friday on. I wish I could post the body of my emailby Thinkyhead - Firmware - mainstream and related support
There's actually a lot of discussion concerning improving support for a wider variety of extruders, including multi-extruders, mixing extruders like the E3D Cyclops, those that have a single nozzle and two motors, and those having two nozzles with a servo to switch between them but only a single motor that reverses direction when driving the other input. If you're just looking for multi-extruderby Thinkyhead - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I've been working on a "configurator" as part of the official Marlin project. I got pretty far, but it needs a lot of work to handle the updated configuration files. There are a couple of configurators online that can produce configurations for older versions of Marlin. Meanwhile, you can try using your old configuration files (Configuration.h and Configuration_adv.h) with the latest Marlin,by Thinkyhead - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Hey RepRappers! I've been working as a volunteer Marlin developer for several months now, helping to move things forward, clean up issues, reduce code size, integrate new features, etc. My main role has been to oversee the code, implement and test new features, help others to bring in their contributions, and meet with other contributors and collaborators to decide what to focus on next. The Marby Thinkyhead - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Try Marlin 1.0.3 dev.by Thinkyhead - Safety & Best Practices
Great review and account of your experiences! I built my Prusa i3 by sourcing all the parts separately, so I can contrast my experience. Electronics with heated bed and LCD, laser cut frame, stepper motors, metal rods, pulleys and belts, hot end, built extruder, plastic parts, power supply... each of these parts came from different sellers, and altogether, with shipping, my self-sourced Prusa i3by Thinkyhead - Prusa i3 and variants
Interference, I hadn't considered that. I found no RF interference issues with my setup so I assumed it was rare.by Thinkyhead - Reprappers
Your configuration looks pretty ok, but here are some thoughts as I compare it to my setup.... You can probably increase your homing feed rate to 3600 and you should be fine there. If your end-stops are normally closed (most standard end-stops are) you can leave the *_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING set to false. If they are normally open, set those to true. I'm using a RAMPS 1.4 board and I do have the ENby Thinkyhead - Reprappers
QuoteAbuMaiaBe careful with MakerFarm jheads, they have a little cylindrical extension to the nozzle that likes to plow up soft plastic and get snagged on globs. I will second that sentiment, especially for the Prusa i3, or any setup with X-axis rods aligned vertically. The problem is exacerbated on the Prusa i3 because when the Y axis (bed) is moving from front to back, and the tip gets snaggedby Thinkyhead - General Mendel Topics
Check out RepRap Magazine Issue #3 for full details of the QuadRap design as it has developed up to now...by Thinkyhead - Reprappers
I did the proofreading for two articles. The Quadrap article and the Paste Extruder article. Hopefully they were good edits. I had wanted to proofread the issue before it went out but didn't get any reply on that. As a result my name is misspelled in the credits. I would surely appreciate more attention to quality on the next issue.by Thinkyhead - RepRap magazine
Ha, the Replikeo i3 is using my printable spool holder design, cool!by Thinkyhead - General Mendel Topics
My working assumption has been that for ABS, since the temperature is usually in the 220°C range, heat will tend to travel faster and higher in the barrel, increasing the length of the melt zone and potentially causing issues with jamming. A long melt zone would also affect retraction. So when I've printed with ABS I set the fan set to point at the insulator above the heat barrel, and keep it onby Thinkyhead - General
Hi Mark, good to know of another Reprapper in Ballard. I still attend 3D printer night on Thursdays at Metrix, always an interesting mix of novices and experts. The most active DIY group seems to be KingMakers, but they're in Bellevue, so they're a little out of the way. I haven't been to any of their meetups yet, but would like to check them out sometime. Right now I'm having a lot of fun just eby Thinkyhead - Washington, Seattle RepRap User Group
For keeping the filament dry, save those heavy plastic bags and silica dessicant packs, and close them up tightly. You might want to double-bag them in humid florida. I haven't been printing much this past week, but I should be getting back into it over the next couple of days as I'm helping out with a delta build that will require a few new parts. I've enabled Z lift and updated my saved configby Thinkyhead - General Mendel Topics
One thing I haven't used in my slicing settings for a while is Lift on Retraction which raises the Z axis whenever a retraction occurs, or with some slicers, only when crossing perimeters. I recall from way back in the early days when I was first learning to do 3D printing with PLA —oh about 8 months ago— that my prints didn't collide as much with Lift enabled, for obvious reasons. Even when theby Thinkyhead - General Mendel Topics
Quoteuncle_bobI have exactly the same construction on one of my hot ends. It does not snag on anything .... And you are also using a Prusa i3? Here in this linked video you can see the construction of my printer. Perhaps you can comment on any significant differences.by Thinkyhead - General Mendel Topics
Thanks for the suggestions! Actually, mechanically everything is tight, the machine has stabilizing fins, and the extrusion and retraction are spot-on, producing smooth vertical surfaces in PLA. Nor is the bed expanding from heat, since I'm printing on cold blue tape. The filament is really dry, too. This is definitely not an issue of blobs, but a side-effect of some kinds of overhangs. Despite tby Thinkyhead - General Mendel Topics
I've been having an issue with the tip of the nozzle getting snagged on overhangs when printing some objects, which throws off the y axis. For example, when printing i3 y corners, the through-holes tend to produce overhangs that rise a bit above the current layer, and they almost always snag. So first, this is a pretty long nozzle with a cylindrical protrusion at its end which is prone to catchiby Thinkyhead - General Mendel Topics
The bed issue is fixed for now. Once everything was adjusted with the plug and power pin properly aligned it stopped overheating. But now... one of my stepper drivers died, and I believe the "Y section" of the RAMPS shield is messed up, so... yeah. I'm ordering some new stepper drivers, and I'll try using the E1 stepper position since I don't trust the Y circuit. That should be fun. I don't thinkby Thinkyhead - RAMPS Electronics
I took another measurement at the bed terminals with the wires disconnected. At that point the meter shows a good 1.3 or 1.4 ohms. So that points back to the plug contact point as the main problem. The MOSFET has a large sink and gets pretty hot, but it never fails. So, I turned on the bed heater with the bed disconnected, and while the power input got warm, there was no burning. Next I reconnecby Thinkyhead - Reprappers
I'm having an issue where the power input to the RAMPS is heating up and melting the plug, but not the whole plug, just the bed positive lead. I've checked the bed resistance, and it seems to be fluctuating between 0.6 and 1.2 ohms, but this could just be the multimeter. I can't see why the bed would exhibit variable resistance unless the LED and 1K resistor have capacitance. The power input forby Thinkyhead - Reprappers
I'll add in my current issue, which is about the same. The leftmost power input on my RAMPS 1.4 board has only intermittent contact, but I can wiggle it a little to get the current flowing. Of course then it heats up and starts to melt the plug. This applies only with the heated bed turned on. I'm using an adjustable LED Strip PSU set to ~12V, not sure how many Amps it's putting through the circuby Thinkyhead - RAMPS Electronics
That burned terminal image is a good warning! The wire might just not be making good contact at the screw terminal, and I might want to get a new plug or two anyway, just in case this one melts any more. A heavier gauge of wire will certainly do something, given how it's heating up at the plug. Strangely, this has only been a noticeable issue very recently. For a few months, maybe a dozen prints,by Thinkyhead - General
I just noticed that the red wire from my PSU for the heated bed is getting so hot at the plug input that it starts to melt the plastic and lose contact with the RAMPS board. Is this just because the wire gauge is too narrow to carry the full current, or is there an unusual amount of resistance at the plug? The wires are typical gauge that you find in an ATX PSU but are not as thick as the wires fby Thinkyhead - General
Ah, I see it's not so RAMPS-friendly, after all. As for the cost, well I assume with Pi you would use it to gain all the premium features like a touch LCD display, custom Pronterface, wireless and network printing, onboard slicing, etc., and then, since you have some bandwidth, take over many of the duties typically performed by RepRap firmware and drive RAMPS directly, free of Arduino. But you aby Thinkyhead - Controllers
In the interest of making this topic informative… There are a couple of extruder designs that use an M5 bolt and an MK7 filament drive gear. You mount a printed gear on the M5 bolt, flatten a part of the bolt and put the MK7 gear on the bolt, tightening the grub screw on the flat. Then align the gear with the small gear on the motor, and you're good to go.by Thinkyhead - Mechanics
Before I discovered the wonderful world of DIY RepRap I was checking out the long list of 3D printers becoming available commercially, and a few of the small RepRap-based startups coming off of Kickstarter. My initial excitement with 3D printing came from learning about online services that could print designs of any complexity in powder printers, and although of course now RepRap can accomplishby Thinkyhead - General
Wow, nice to see good results. I just noticed Amazon selling some and had to see if it was real. Sure enough reprapist.com is selling it as well. It will be all over the place soon, I'm sure.by Thinkyhead - General