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Collecting and discussing themes for our magazine.
Re: Multiple Rasberry Pis to a Power Supply? - 10 years ago
That looks like a 12V power supply for powering LED strip lights. Do you know the specs of it (Volts / Watts)? This will dictate how to connect to it and how many pis you can connect. The pi is powered by 5V via USB. To power it from a 12V supply, you could hack some 12V to USB cigarette lighters or (more reliably) some of these pololu step down voltage regulators. There are lots of optionsby 3dkarma - General
Re: dual extruder heated bed and cooling fan? - 10 years ago
Change FAN_PIN in pins.h to the pin you choose. You'll need a mosfet fan driver to switch it, like this (thingiverse).by 3dkarma - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Hooking up prusa I3 sanguinololu to pc - 10 years ago
The extruder won't move until the hot end reaches a minimum temperature, to prevent damage. Have you let the hotend heat up to over 170 Celsius before moving the extruder?by 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics
Re: Marlin Settings // Configuration.h - 10 years ago
It might be easiest if you take a run through of your configuration.h file and post any specific questions you have. There are enough variations on the i3 when it comes to belts, number of teeth on pulleys, whether or not you've got a smart panel / lcd installed, etc. that you'll need to modify anything posted, anyway. If it helps get you started, here's one we created for an i3 kit we're buildby 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics
Re: Hooking up prusa I3 sanguinololu to pc - 10 years ago
Reversing the connection will reverse the direction of the stepper motors (as mentioned on the reprap wiki here). Make sure you turn off and disconnect from your PC first or you risk frying the stepper driver.by 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics
Re: CAD Model foe Bowden extruder - 10 years ago
First search result for a bowden extruder on Thingiverse is the Airtripper, which comes with an SCAD file. I'd suggest Thingiverse as your first port of call. Not all of them will have the files you're looking for, but it's a sure bet some will.by 3dkarma - General
Re: temperature reading problem - 10 years ago
Did you load Marlin onto your board yourself? If you did, check Configuration.h for the TEMP_SENSOR_0 and TEMP_SENSOR_BED lines. If your thermistors are the same they should each have the same value. If you didn't load Marlin, you'll need to download the Arduino IDE and the Marlin firmware. Google for Prusa i3 Marlin configuration for a tutorial, like this one.by 3dkarma - General
Re: NEED HELP - prusa i3 rework problems - 10 years ago
Check your acceleration and speed settings. If they're too high it can cause this behavior.by 3dkarma - Reprappers
Re: Prusa i3 - Increasing Precision And Stability? - 10 years ago
These frame stabilisers (thingiverse.com) may help solve some issus.by 3dkarma - Reprappers
Re: No Z-Axis down, No Extrude with host 1.0 - 10 years ago
Are your endstops normally closed? What I've seen happen a number of times is, when your endstops are normally closed, if the wiring comes loose or your install new firmware with endstops set to normally open, the z-axis will only move up (by design, to prevent the print head from crashing into the bed).by 3dkarma - General
Re: First layer full of bumps - 10 years ago
Your first layer may also be too low. If it's too low, pressure builds up in the melt chamber until it's high enough to squeeze out in a blob, like in your photo. Your bed doesn't look level - look at the width of the brim all the way round. If you bed is level, it should be an even and consistent width. It's a nice bead on the top left, but a wide smoosh on the right, indicating your first lby 3dkarma - Printing
Re: Z axis wont move down - 10 years ago
The default behaviour when homing the Z axis is to move up by a small amount, then move down until the end stop is triggered. If the firmware thinks the end stop is already triggered, it will move up but not down. Check your wiring and send M119 to the printer. It will tell you the current state of the end stops. If your wiring is OK, you may have to change it so the end stop is normally closby 3dkarma - Printing
Re: Errors with Arduino - 10 years ago
Problem and solution discussed in this thread. Can I ask what version of Marlin you're using? A later version may rectify the problem.by 3dkarma - General
Re: Wobblenaught - 10 years ago
Threaded rods are a pretty small fraction of the total cost of the printer.by 3dkarma - Developers
Re: Marlin Firmware Problem: Motors wont move and MinTemp triggered. VIDEO - 10 years ago
Can you post your configuration.h and let us know what type of thermistor you're using? Several wild guesses and it's the thermistor you selected plus the speed / acceleration settings for your steppers.by 3dkarma - General
Re: Very Bad Warping - 10 years ago
ABS printing works best within an enclosure to eliminate drafts and ensure a consistent temperature. Fans are a definite no-no. Now you've turned your fan off, try to eliminate drafts as your next step.by 3dkarma - Printing
Re: 3 digit 7 segment LED temperature display? - 10 years ago
I believe with Marlin firmware you can connect two thermistors to your hot end and it will shut the hot end down if they disagree by a wide enough margin, meaning if one comes loose (which seems to be a common failing), the firmware will shut the hotend down instead of letting its temp skyrocket and eventually cause a fire. An alternative that's been discussed here, I think, is to use a thermalby 3dkarma - General
Re: Extruder Motor not turning while printing, but works while testing - 10 years ago
I had a similar problem and ended up dropping the extruder max speed to 10 to counter it. Yours is currently set at 25: #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {500, 500, 2, 25} // (mm/sec) You could try dropping it to 10 and go from there.by 3dkarma - Printing
Re: New printer - Prints are printing small (Not scale settings) - Firmware? - 10 years ago
You need to set the correct X, Y and Z (and eventually E) steps per mm for your printer (the line below is from your configuration): #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {78.7402,78.7402,200.0*8/3,760*1.1} // default steps per unit for Ultimaker This sets, respectively, the X, Y, Z and E steps per mm values for your printer. Incorrect X, Y and Z values will mess up the scale of your print. Anby 3dkarma - Printing
Re: 3 digit 7 segment LED temperature display? - 10 years ago
I know this may seem like overkill and the form factor may not be what you're after, but why not a PID temperature controller with a K-type thermocouple? They're cheap and readily available. It is a controller, yes, but you don't _have_ to use it to control the temperature, just read it.by 3dkarma - General
Re: Extruder Motor not turning while printing, but works while testing - 10 years ago
Check your extruder speed settings. If they're too high, the motor may not turn. It can work in test if your control software sends its own speed value when extruding or retracting, which will be different to your slicer / firmware settings.by 3dkarma - Printing
Re: Cannot print solid layer over an infill layer - 10 years ago
If it's cheap filament, the diameter may vary along its length, which might be causing your problems. Try measuring at a few spots on the roll.by 3dkarma - Printing
Re: right side z motor stalls - 10 years ago
Have a read of this thread - it may help. I don't know what board you've got, but it may be that the Z motors are connected in parallel, in which case the ref voltage will need to be double what you may otherwise think. The point the thread makes about the sense resistors is important, too. Check the specifications for your stepper drivers to make sure you're getting the correct reference voltby 3dkarma - Printing
Re: Firmware loaded - 10 years ago
Printer connected means that repetier-host has sent at least one command to the printer and received an "OK" in response. I don't know what repetier-host sends to the printer at connection, but the fact that it has received an "OK" in response means that your firmware has been loaded on the board. You can check this for yourself by connecting in repetier-host and sending M119 to the board manuaby 3dkarma - General
Re: MakerFarm Prusa i3v Extruder Not Feeding Properly - 10 years ago
The smaller the nozzle, the higher the pressure in the melt chamber and the harder the extruder has to work. That means at least a couple of things need to be just right: the tension on the extruder idler and the reference voltage of the extruder stepper driver. If the first isn't high enough (the idler isn't screwed down enough), the filament won't be gripped strongly enough to pull through (aby 3dkarma - Printing
Re: Prusa Mendel Y axis motor - 10 years ago
Is that a Melzi board? All the stepper motors should be wired up the same way. If the motor isn't moving, it may be the reference voltage for the stepper driver. This thread is relevant to Melzis.by 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics
Re: right side z motor stalls - 10 years ago
Have you set the reference voltage for the Z axis? It might be too low.by 3dkarma - Printing
Re: extruder stepper problem. - 10 years ago
It looks like your print is starting too low. There's a massive pressure build up in your melt chamber and it's making your extruder skip. Does it keep skipping above the first layer?by 3dkarma - Printing
Re: Carriage and extruder suggestions foe Greg's extruder - 10 years ago
There's this hybrid geared / bowden extruder on thingiverse. Dual geared extruders on the x-carriage would be heavy, so this seems a reasonable compromise. It is for the E3D extruder, but could be modified to support other types.by 3dkarma - Developers
Re: Brittle PLA prints - 10 years ago
What extruder / hot end are you using? Increasing the force on the filament should not have changed the steps per mm, unless your extruder was slipping prior to the recalibration.by 3dkarma - Printing