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Re: Unknown Printing Issue - 10 years ago
You're definitely starting the print too high. First step, though, is to change your slicer settings to print a brim to make sure the melt chamber is fully charged before the main print begins.by 3dkarma - Printing
Re: Missing parts when slicing - 10 years ago
There may be an issue with the model. Try running it through Netfabb cloud repair before putting it back through Slic3r.by 3dkarma - Slic3r
Re: Need help with Prusa i3 setup - 10 years ago
Start by making sure your end stops are working correctly. Send M119 to the printer and check the response, then trigger each end stop in turn, holding it down and sending M119 to the printer again. If the printer is not correctly reporting the triggering of the end stops, check the wiring and/or invert the end stop in the firmware as necessary. Do the latter if the printer is reporting an endby 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics
Re: Z axis motors spin too fast - 10 years ago
Check the homing feed rate in the firmware. I;m not sure if this is the cause of your issue, but I'm assuming it's homing at this rate after auto-leveling. #define HOMING_FEEDRATE {50*60, 50*60, 4*60, 0} // set the homing speeds (mm/min) 4*60, the default, is too fast for my i3. It works better at 3*60 (these are mm/min, so it's either 4 or 3 mm/sec).by 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics
Re: Brittle PLA prints - 10 years ago
It looks like you're under-extruding from the photo. Steps/mm should not change unless you change the gearing on your extruder. Have you tried reverting to the original value?by 3dkarma - Printing
Re: Filament Change Tips - 10 years ago
The best way of cleaning your hot end is to heat it up to about 270 C, let it stabilise, then cool to just above the glass transition temperature of the filament you're currently using. For PLA this is about 70 C, although I find temperatures up to 100 work as well. Once the temperature has stabilised again, pull the filament out. If you've got the temperature right, all the filament will pullby 3dkarma - Printing
Re: New Printer...Help!!!! - 10 years ago
Try following the calibration guide on the reprap wiki. There are a number of things you can print to test your printer's calibration on the guide.by 3dkarma - Printing
Re: problem homing all axis 
- 10 years ago
Have you tried inverting the end stops in the firmware? Set them to the opposite of what they are now and try again. const bool X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop. const bool Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop. const bool Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstopby 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics
Re: New Printer...Help!!!! - 10 years ago
Have you checked the pulley isn't slipping? Is there much resistance when you attempt to move the bed by hand? If it's binding somewhere it might be making the motor skip.by 3dkarma - Printing
Re: Affordable plastic shredder - 10 years ago
Given the comments re degradation through melting and my own experience with this, I'm not convinced the blender route is any good. I got a relatively small percentage of shards at 5mm or lower after melting, freezing and shredding. Getting the remainder of the plastic to the appropriate size would impart more heat (through the action of the blender) and degrade the PLA even further. The filamby 3dkarma - General
Re: Any way to attach thermistor and heater besides tape? - 10 years ago
E3D v6 will definitely work with the i3, at the very least. You may need to print a new extruder, but the v5 designs on thingiverse will work without modification.by 3dkarma - Safety & Best Practices
Re: New Atmega1284p doesn't work. - 10 years ago
Assuming you're using Marlin, you need to invert your end stops in the firmware: const bool X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop. If it's currently true, set it to false, or vice versa. Do the same for each axis. Make sure the max endstops are disabled, unless you have them.by 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics
Re: What type of bed spring should I get? - 10 years ago
Quotetjb1 Quote3dkarma The value of having springs is saving your bed if your hot end crashes into it. With springs = bed moves down and no damage done. Without springs = cracked glass / groove dug into the bed / damaged hot end. The end stop should stop the latter happening, but mistakes are known to happen. No, this concept is enirely wrong. TURN DOWN YOUR Z DRIVER, you do not require thatby 3dkarma - Reprappers
Re: What type of bed spring should I get? - 10 years ago
The value of having springs is saving your bed if your hot end crashes into it. With springs = bed moves down and no damage done. Without springs = cracked glass / groove dug into the bed / damaged hot end. The end stop should stop the latter happening, but mistakes are known to happen.by 3dkarma - Reprappers
Re: Prusa i3 w/ Melzi & NO instructions. - 10 years ago
Re the Melzi, have you set the jumper to power from USB before plugging it into your computer? It won't respond otherwise. The pwr-sel jumper is about 20mm left of the CPU. Try it in both positions, but make sure the board's unplugged before you change the jumper settings. If you've got the correct voltage selected on your PSU, it sounds like it may be dead. Does anything light up on it?by 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics
Re: prints wavy - 10 years ago
Make sure your belts are nice and tight. Sloppiness will cause waves.by 3dkarma - Printing
Re: Getting Marlin to work - 10 years ago
Your motors will typically only move in one direction if your end stops are not connected. They will not move in the home direction, to prevent crashing if an end stop fails. The end stops are configured to be normally closed, so if they're missing Marlin will see them as open and won't allow movement in the home direction to prevent a head crash.by 3dkarma - Developers
Re: Slic3r with multiple extruders and different e steps? - 10 years ago
Have you tried custom g-code to select each extruder individually and set its e-steps per mm? Don't know if it will work, but it looks like the only way to do it through Slic3r. T0 M92 E720 T1 M92 E700 There may be something you can do with the tool-change custom g-code and placeholders, but I can't see anything obvious (or even not obvious). Can't seem to find a list of placeholders anywhereby 3dkarma - Slic3r
Re: Getting Marlin to work - 10 years ago
Have you set the reference voltage for the stepper drivers yet? Relevant reprap wiki article.by 3dkarma - Developers
Re: What type of bed spring should I get? - 10 years ago
Pressa clothes pegs from Ikea have perfect springs.by 3dkarma - Reprappers
Re: Built Delta reprap, but unable to get it working - 10 years ago
You might also want to look at calibrating steps per mm on each axis.by 3dkarma - Reprappers
Re: Marlin configuration - 10 years ago
Check the reprap calculator (http://calculator.josefprusa.cz/) for a few of these settings.by 3dkarma - Reprappers
Re: Automatically clearing the bed and starting the next print (Videos+Instructions) - Fully automated production! 
- 10 years ago
Would multiple heating/cooling cycles in quick succession help free up parts from the bed? Peltiers were mentioned above, but these would be expensive. Water cooling might work (pump water through a copper coil under the heat bed), but you've got the problem of boiling the liquid during the hot cycle.by 3dkarma - General
Re: CALIBRATION - 10 years ago
It sounds more like your firmware is reading millimeters as centimeters, rather than in issue with pronterface or sprinter. What printer do you have?by 3dkarma - General
Re: 2 extruders setup - 10 years ago
It would be useful if Slic3r didn't heat up the second extruder if it wasn't used, without having to resort to changing the settings. I'd put in a feature request on the Slic3r section of the forums.by 3dkarma - Slic3r
Re: Top layers and bridges are smudged. Which params to adjust. - 10 years ago
Extrusion multiplier is in Slic3r, under the tabs in the first reply. Retraction length is also in Slic3r, under Printer Settings / Extruder 1 Cooling settings (including minimum time) are under Filament Settings / Cooling / Cooling Thresholds / Enable fan if layer print time is belowby 3dkarma - Printing
Re: Infill gaps and Parts to fit - 10 years ago
Calibrate your e-steps per mm first and make sure you have the correct filament diameter in your slicer settings. Measure the filament diameter with a set of calipers - don't believe what the manufacturer tells you. Calibration guide on the reprap wiki.by 3dkarma - Printing
Re: 2 extruders setup - 10 years ago
Unfortunately, when only printing with the one, you'll need to set the second extruder's temperature to zero in slic3r's settings.by 3dkarma - Slic3r
Re: Uk help needed - 10 years ago
Do you have a multimeter? Check the resistance of the thermistor. It should be about 100K at 25c (so near 100K at room temperature) if it's a 100K thermistor. If it's a 10K it should be about 10K at 25c. If you've got the wrong thermistor selected in your firmware configuration there's every chance it's reading too high.by 3dkarma - RAMPS Electronics