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Re: Top layers and bridges are smudged. Which params to adjust. - 10 years ago
You might also need to increase your retraction length to get rid of the strings.by 3dkarma - Printing
Re: 3dPrinterCzar Prusa i3 auto-leveling servo mount? - 10 years ago
Is it that you can't find a servo mount for i3's in general or your printer specifically? Thingiverse has a bunch of mounts: Looking at the 3dprinterczar stl files, it looks very much like the diytechshop version. This one may work for you - it bolts on in between the extruder body and x carriage, from the looks of it:by 3dkarma - Reprappers
Re: Stepper Motor Issues: Help! Ord Bot - 10 years ago
Current limit on the stepper drivers. Reprap wiki has info.by 3dkarma - Reprappers
Re: Print comes up on first layer - 10 years ago
See the way the skirt is lifting? Your print head is too high. The first layer should be smooshed a little into the bed. Dilute PVA glue is fantastic for sticking PLA to the heated bed, especially over Kapton.by 3dkarma - Printing
Re: Prusa i3 heated bed/Kapton question - 10 years ago
The general idea behind covering with Kapton is to increase bed adhesion. These days, most people use hairspray to get ABS to stick, dilute PVA for PLA, glue stick, ABS slurry, blue painter's tape or prayer. With all these options, using Kapton is a good idea to make it easier to clean the bed - just strip off the Kapton when your bed gets a bit rough. The other place to use Kapton is generallby 3dkarma - Reprappers
Re: so I can connect a Single 1 Axis 3.5A TB6560 Stepper Stepping Motor Driver Board to a ramps 1.4 - 10 years ago
Why use those stepper drivers instead of Pololu A4988's?by 3dkarma - General
Re: Want to print a new extruder for my Prusa i3 and E3D, suggestions? - 10 years ago
There's a wade's with herringbone gears adapated specifically for the e3d over at thingiverse. I'm in the middle of printing it out to give it a whirl.by 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics
Re: Bed leveling issues - 10 years ago
Heat your hot end to melt the filament left on it, put a piece of paper under the hot end then home it (hopefully you've set the bottom at the point where the paper will drag). Pull the paper from under the nozzle and it will drag off any plastic adhering to it and leave you with a nice flat surface to level your bed with. It is possible to print on the glass surface without kapton, but you mayby 3dkarma - Mechanics
Re: A4988 Stepper Driver Calibration - 10 years ago
Ramps 1.4 has the Z-axis steppers connected in parallel, which requires twice the voltage. Setting it to the same as your others steppers will leave the z-axis under-powered.by 3dkarma - Reprappers
Re: Prusa i3 Dual Nozzle? - 10 years ago
Correction: the latest version of pronterface has native support for multiple extruders. Go to Settings / Options in the pronterface menu and increase Extruders count (near the bottom of the window). Restart pronterface and you'll see a new Tool button to the left of the Extrude button. Click on it and it'll cycle through your extruders, allowing you to then extrude / retract / set temp for eaby 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics
Re: Prusa quality issue - not sure of cause? - 10 years ago
The circle thing is something you do in your cad software. Slic3r doesn't have a setting to specify number of sides in a circle.by 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics
Re: Prusa i3 Dual Nozzle? - 10 years ago
If you have a RAMPS board you will need to set the board type in configuration.h to 34 so that it will see the fan power output as the power for the second extruder. You will also need to set the number of extruders: #define EXTRUDERS 2 You will need to set the offset between the two extruders, as you've mentioned above. I think that's everything you need to get dual extruders going with theby 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics
Re: Indexed multi extruder design, software advice sought. - 10 years ago
I know that Slic3r does this and suspect that Repetier does as well: you can configure slicing software to execute custom gcode to change extruders. You would need to customise the firmware to send the (I assume) servo commands to change the extruders on receipt of the correct gcode, however. Repetier have an online configuration tool that will allow you to generate firmware for a custom numberby 3dkarma - General
Re: x axis problem PRUSA I3 - 10 years ago
Have you tried the Y axis motor in the X axis connection? This would tell you whether there is a problem with the stepper driver.by 3dkarma - Reprappers
Re: What happened?! - 10 years ago
It looks like you're under extruding and there's some wobble in your hot end mount somewhere. The latter may also be caused by skipping steps (as may the former).by 3dkarma - Printing
Re: Prusa quality issue - not sure of cause? - 10 years ago
There are several things you should check: Motor voltage. Calibrate e-steps per mm. Belt tension. Regarding the size of the hole, this is fairly common. As your hot end lays the shell on the inside of the hole, it has a tendency to drag and reduce the circumference slightly. One technique to resolve this is to set the number of sides of the circle to no more than twice the diameter of the holby 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics
Re: SainSmart Melzi avrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x00 - 10 years ago
Flashing LED is normal when the USB is connected. As well as the power from USB jumper, you need to connect the reset jumper at the end of the board near the temp sensor terminals (remember to disconnect after programming). This should solve your comms problem.by 3dkarma - Sanguino(lolu)
Re: Affordable plastic shredder - 10 years ago
What's the largest size pieces a filastruder will take? I printed out a series of sieves at 5mm, 7.5mm and 10mm and sorted the shards, to give you an idea of how it comes out. The larger pieces (10mm and above) have been returned to the freezer for re-processing.by 3dkarma - General
Re: extruder jaming - 10 years ago
What temperature are you printing at? Can you push the filament through by hand to "print in the air" when the hotend is up to temp? Also, if you have your first layer(s) too low, there may be too much pressure at the hotend to get filament out.by 3dkarma - Printing
Re: Affordable plastic shredder - 10 years ago
GBP £15 blender from the supermarket, although it does have a glass jug. TBH, best blender I've ever had. Crunches ice like a champ. Luckily they had more in stock so I bought another and used the old one to do this test. I melted PLA down into a thin pool at about 220 Celsius.by 3dkarma - General
Re: Huxley Merlin problem? - 10 years ago
It might be waiting for the bed to hit the right temperature. Are you pre-heating the bed before you start the print?by 3dkarma - Printing
Re: Affordable plastic shredder - 10 years ago
Stick your plastic in the oven in a baking tray covered with non-stick baking paper at a temperature appropriate to melting it. Melt it down to a nice thin pool, take it out and wait for it to cool. Stick it in the freezer and wait for it to freeze, then break it up into smaller manageable pieces by hand (use gloves - you'll get shards that may cut your hands). Finally, stick the smaller frozeby 3dkarma - General
Re: Is my RAMPS at fault? - 10 years ago
Disconnect the power from your RAMPS and switch the pololu stepper driver on your extruder with one on another access. Reconnect and see if the axis now stutters. If it does, the pololu is bad and that's the only thing you'll need to replace. NB: do not disconnect / connect motors from / to your RAMPS with the power on. It will damage the pololu.by 3dkarma - Reprappers
Re: Bought kit, No instructions. Please help. - 10 years ago
Firmware available on github. Wiki link here. Z-axis going up 10mm and then printing spaghetti is caused by faulty wiring on the z-axis end stop. Normal behaviour when a print starts is to raise z-axis by 10mm and then home all axes before starting the print. If the printer doesn't home it thinks it's already home, which means that one or more of the end stops is not working. The fact it's nby 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics
Re: What slicer setting is causing this? - 10 years ago
It's a little hard to tell from the photo, but it looks like where you're getting drooping is at the bottom of a V over empty space. Rather than there being a bridge there, it looks like your printer is just printing in empty space and the droops are inevitable without support.by 3dkarma - Reprappers
Re: Extruder reversed - 10 years ago
Make sure your extruder stepper motor is wired up correctly. If it is, you can either reverse it in the firmware or reverse the wiring. Guide to stepper wiring (including reversing).by 3dkarma - RepRap Host
Re: Bought kit, No instructions. Please help. - 10 years ago
Re fine tuning: calibration guide. Re firmware, latest is fine. The i3 doesn't require a different version.by 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics
Re: Where to splurge on my Prusa i3 build? - 10 years ago
Splurge an all-metal hotend. There are some really good ones around (like E3D). The upgraded rods are a good idea. Go for an electronics package that'll allow you to put an additional hotend on at some point. You'll end up wanting a dual extruder before too long.by 3dkarma - Reprappers
Re: Upgrading Prusa Mendel - 10 years ago
The easiest way to improve printing small details at the top of a print is to print two of them side-by-side, or print a column at least the same height as the object you want printed well, at the same time. It gives each layer time enough to cool before printing the next. Re printing at 0.2mm layer height, it sounds like there's too much heat getting to the print. Maybe increase the speed, orby 3dkarma - General
Re: POLL: Which nozzle size? - 10 years ago
0.3 and 0.5 reprapro nozzles with 1.75mm filament. E3D 0.4mm with 1.75mm. Budaschnozzle 0.4mm with 1.75mm. J-head with 3.0mm (all PLA). Best: E3D 0.4 / 1.75. Worst: Budaschnozzle 0.4 / 1.75by 3dkarma - General