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Collecting and discussing themes for our magazine.
Re: Upgrading Prusa Mendel - 10 years ago
An improved hot end would definitely help. I like the E3D all-metal hotend. You could also stabilise the frame - Y direction is OK thanks to the a-frame, but you can get some wobble when you're moving fast in the X direction. Thingiverse has some stabilisers: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:34214 Posting an image of the prints you're currently getting would help with identifying opportunitieby 3dkarma - General
Re: Z-Axis Stutters - 10 years ago
Have you checked the current limit on the stepper driver? Voltage may be too low.by 3dkarma - Reprappers
Re: Jagged edges - 10 years ago
Looks like you might have some slop in your belts - are the x and y axis belts tight? Also, as Pr0ze says, measure your filament but make sure you also calibrate e-steps per mm. Either can cause under / over extrusion.by 3dkarma - Printing
Re: Difficulties extruding filament - 10 years ago
Do you have some calipers to check the diameter of the new filament? It sounds like it's oversized.by 3dkarma - Printing
Re: Calibrating Prusa i3 - 10 years ago
When your printer prints the hole's perimeter the drag on the filament can narrow the hole. There's a very good article on it somewhere, but my google-fu is failing me tonight. From memory, the rule of thumb to get closest to the size you want is to set the number of sides of the hole to twice the diameter. So a 3mm hole should have no more than 6 sides.by 3dkarma - General
Re: New to reprap "stepper motor issues." - 10 years ago
Stepper driver current limit on the RAMPS board is too high. Good article on setting the current limit here.by 3dkarma - General
Re: Servo Mounts - 10 years ago
What's your new extruder setup? If you can point me to the extruder carriage design, I might be able to post a modification that includes a screw hole for a servo. A link to / photo of your original setup would help too.by 3dkarma - General
Re: EXTRUDER MOTOR NOT WORKIG FOR E-VALUE LESS THAN 10 - 10 years ago
Quotericym66721However it sill runs fine at any value if I use the GUI Extrude or Reverse buttons Can you post the gcode that's sent to the printer by the GUI? If it's sending gcode that works for values less than 5mm then you should be able to copy what it sends and send it to the printer directly.by 3dkarma - General
Re: EXTRUDER MOTOR NOT WORKIG FOR E-VALUE LESS THAN 10 - 10 years ago
Sounds like your extruder is using absolute positions instead of relative. Try sending M83 before any of the G1 commands.by 3dkarma - General
Re: EXTRUDER MOTOR NOT WORKIG FOR E-VALUE LESS THAN 10 - 10 years ago
Have you tried slowing the feedrate down? Try G1 E5 F200 instead of F500.by 3dkarma - General
Re: Pronterface connected, but all motors doesn't move - 10 years ago
Have you set the vref on the stepper drivers? If they are under-volted they won't move. Have you set the steps per mm for each axis and the extruder in the firmware?by 3dkarma - Reprappers
Re: Prusa i3 Extruder / Hotend combo - 10 years ago
I've spent many fruitless hours getting a BudaSchnozzle to work. They don't like PLA and they don't like 1.75mm (at lest the version I have doesn't). Refused to extrude and blocked constantly. Swapped out for an E3D and it prints extremely well. No problems getting it going at all. The E3D does require a mounting plate, but there are lots of people around who will print you one.by 3dkarma - Reprappers
Re: Prusa i2 Z-Rod Distances - 10 years ago
29.5 mm (measured it on the STL file).by 3dkarma - Reprappers
Re: Hobbed bolt shaving the filament - 10 years ago
Slow down your printing speed to see if that solves the problem (you don't need to change your steps/mm).by 3dkarma - Printing
Re: Warped prints on certain shapes - 10 years ago
From the top layer, it looks like you're not extruding enough filament and it may be that the print head is exerting a dragging force on the gear teeth as a result and pulling them up (similar thing happens when you try to print a small vertical hold for a bolt and it ends up being smaller than you designed). Try playing with the extrusion width over thickness settings. Also, are you printing iby 3dkarma - Printing
Re: Tricolour Mendel - 10 years ago
Could you be more specific? Describe the steps you have taken to get the board working and what the result was.by 3dkarma - Reprappers
Re: extruder geting stuck - 10 years ago
It's possible some debris or dust has entered your print head and is clogging the nozzle. To clear it, heat up the head to 230-270 degrees and let it settle, then re-set the temperature to the glass transition temperature of PLA: about 70 degrees, although you may need to play with it to get the best results. Wait for the temperature to settle, then pull the filament out of the print head. Ifby 3dkarma - Printing
Re: E3D v5 Clogging - 10 years ago
To clean your hotend, heat it to 230-270 degrees celsius and wait until it stabilises, then set its temperature to the glass transition temperature of the PLA (this should be about 70 but varies dependent on the PLA). Pull the PLA out of your hotend and it will pull the debris out with it. If you've got the temperature right you should see what looks like a straw at the end of the length you'veby 3dkarma - Printing
Re: Old PLA very brittle? - 10 years ago
Had some 3mm stuff that went the same way. About the same age, too.by 3dkarma - General
Re: Filament breaks between use - 10 years ago
Can yhou post a picture of where the spool is in relation to the printer? If it's too far back, you'll be putting stress on the filament in the opposite direction of its natural curl. I've had filament break in the same circumstances you describe and solved it by moving the spool closer to the printer to reduce the strain.by 3dkarma - Reprappers
Re: Repeatable positional accuracy of z-axis - 10 years ago
You should be able to observe whether the steppers are positionally accurate. If your couplers are tight and do not slip, make a note of their angle prior to moving up and down. If the angle is not the same after the test, they're not positionally accurate. Do you have any anti-backlash measures installed?by 3dkarma - General
Re: Repeatable positional accuracy of z-axis - 10 years ago
Check your firmware for steps per mm on the Z axis. If this is not a whole number it may be the reason you're getting inconsistent results. Try the test again with a whole-number multiple of the steps per mm setting. What type of Z-couplers do you use? If there is any twist-flex in these it would account for the issue.by 3dkarma - General
Re: Pronterface seems to ignore Marlin max home speed - 10 years ago
Settings / Options / xy_feedrate and z_feedrate (down the bottom of the window).by 3dkarma - General
Re: Multi-Color Extruder - 10 years ago
What I like about the Kraken is the ability to tune the height of the individual extruders. Which will also be a major pain when it comes to tuning the height of the individual extruders. Water cooling is also very cool.by 3dkarma - General
Re: HELP!!!! Novice problems in 3d printing - 10 years ago
1. Check your slicing settings, in whatever slicing software you're using. You should have printing temperature set in your slicing settings. If not, the temperature will drop when the print starts, even if you manually set a temperature prior to printing. 2. Again, check your slicing settings. The dimensions of the printer should be set before your slice, otherwise your center will be off aby 3dkarma - General
Re: Building 3D Printer/Newbie Questions - 10 years ago
Your choice, really. RAMPS, Melzi, Sanguinololu - all would work. It's difficult to tell, but I think the picture on reprap.org shows a Sanguinololu.by 3dkarma - Reprappers
Re: Another "Help Me Tune/Diagnose My i3 Print Issue" Thread. - 10 years ago
Your extruder does look too close to the glass. Have you tried the paper method of setting z-home height? It also looks like you need to up your retraction distance and speed to get rid of those strings. Try following the calibration guide on the reprap wiki.by 3dkarma - Printing
Re: Printing on another print? - 10 years ago
THF is a PLA solvent that's only about as toxic as Acetone.by 3dkarma - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)