By "printed separate" do you mean you're printing them one at a time, one after the other? If so, the hot end is spending too much time over a given area on the print and melting lower layers. Try printing more than one at the same time.by 3dkarma - Printing
Randomise start/stop points might not exist in Cura.by 3dkarma - Reprappers
From the domed look of the top of the cube, it looks like you're over-extruding a little. Drop the extrusion multiplier down in 2% increments (98%, 96%, etc.) until you get a nice smooth top layer. This should also take care of the rounding of the corners. Also, make sure you randomise the start and stop points in each layer.by 3dkarma - Reprappers
Over-extrusion and/or not enough retraction (hence blobbing) can be causes of nodules of PLA on the print surface. I'd play with these to try and minimise the issue.by 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics
I'm not sure if repetier host will correctly set eeprom values for marlin firmware - if it thinks it's talking to repetier firmware, it might do something different. The g code reference at states that repetier host uses M206 for setting an eeprom value, but marlin uses M500. Looking at the eeprom section of the g code reference, you could try first setting your steps per mm to the correct valby 3dkarma - Reprappers
If vref on the stepper drivers is set too low, you may not be giving the steppers enough oomph and they may be missing steps at one or more points in the print. Either adjust the vref or slow down the print speed.by 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics
Use the reprap calculator to calculate the correct steps per mm for your printer (). You can then send an M92 instruction to your printer to set the correct steps per mm for testing (). Once you've got the correct value, you'll need to change your firmware configuration to apply it permanently.by 3dkarma - Reprappers
Looks like you're over-extruding. Calibrate your e-steps per mm () to get reasonably close to the correct extrusion, then use the extrusion multiplier setting in your slicer to fine-tune. Use the 20mm calibration cube in the reprap wiki calibration guide and check the top surface for under or over extrusion.by 3dkarma - Reprappers
What speed are you printing at?by 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics
That's the right method. If you unhook the belt on the Y axis, does it travel freely - meaning, if you push it with a finger will it continue sliding after you let go, or does it stop immediately?by 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics
If the motor is too hot it's either working too hard or the vref is too high. Have you tried the adjustment method in the wiki post I linked to, or did you just turn the pot down a little bit? Do you have a multimeter you can use to check the current vref setting?by 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics
Friction might be the problem. How easily does the Y axis move with the power off?by 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics
QuoteTERMINAL Yes, i am using RAMPS 1.4. The whole board is a Base V1.2 So i should just spin the screw marked Y counterclokwise? I talked to a friend and he suggested fixing a small pc fan to the side of the motor. Good idea? Anyways, i'll try lowering the amperage tomorrow(it's getting late) and i'll keep you updated. Thank you all very much for the help. This is the best support i've had on aby 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics
Also make sure that your Y axis pulley isn't slipping and that the Y axis stepper motor and driver aren't overheating.by 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics
Pla doesn't need heat kept in. It works better with a fan directed at the print to cool layers as they're printed. That type of delamination can be caused by under extruding and can also be caused by too narrow extrusion width. Make sure your extrusion width is greater than your nozzle diameter and the layer height is no more than 80% of your nozzle diameter. My go-to settings are 0.2mm layeby 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics
Firstly, go to the reprap calculator site and get the correct steps per mm for your build. Secondly, calibrate the e-steps per mm of your extruder, as per the reprap wiki. It would be worthwhile going through the other calibration steps on the wiki, too.by 3dkarma - Reprappers
You've got the X carriage and two gears from the extruder here. The X carriage will go on the two horizontal smooth rods that move up and down. Once you print the remainder of the extruder, the extruder will bolt to the X carriage, the smaller gear will go on the shaft of the stepper motor you bolt to the extruder. The small gear will turn the large gear, which will be attached to the hobbed bby 3dkarma - Reprappers
Beware cheap Chinese RAMPS boards. They tend to use low quality mosfets without the oomph required to drive a heated bed and will blow fairly quickly. Beware also cheap clones of Arduino Mega 2560 boards as they tend to have problems out of the box. Other than that, RAMPS is a pretty mature and reliable platform. If you're looking to expand the capabilities of your printer, though, you'll neeby 3dkarma - General
It's more likely that you damaged the thermistor wiring. At certain points in the print, more stress is placed on the wiring than others and the resistance changes as a result. I'd inspect the thermistor wiring, or even just replace it (they're cheap, after all).by 3dkarma - Safety & Best Practices
Pibot sell an IR reflection endstop that might work on glass.by 3dkarma - General
Use a blower fan, instead of a computer fan. Blower fans are better at directing air at specific areas of the print.by 3dkarma - General
Does the height change depending on the position of the extruder on the X axis, or does moving the extruder in one direction then back to the original position change the Z height? If the former, the bed isn't level. If the latter, see if you have an movement in the extruder by attempting to rotate it by hand along the Y axis. If you get any play, tension in the filament may be pulling back onby 3dkarma - Mechanics
Your layers are getting all melty because it's a small object and the print head stays in a relatively small area, meaning individual layers don't get enough time to cool properly before the next is laid down. For a start, try printing two side-by-side (with a reasonable distance between) and this might bring clarity to some of the other issues, one of which seems to be missing steps on one of tby 3dkarma - Printing
Looking at the bottom layer, see the gaps between the extrusion lines? They shouldn't be there. This might indicate that your nozzle is too high on the first layer, meaning the plastic hasn't been smooshed down far enough into the bed to stick. I'd also make sure my e-steps per mm is calibrated correctly and that my extrusion width and layer height settings are correct. For further diagnosisby 3dkarma - Printing
It looks very much like z-wobble. Are your Z axis threaded rods fixed at both ends? They should be free at the top end, or any bend in the rod will translate to the effect you're seeing in your print. You should also have a flexible connector connecting the Z axis stepper motors to the threaded rods.by 3dkarma - Reprappers
Creating the STL files is a simple enough process. It looks like all the parts are in the sketchup design at the Graber github repository . Install sketchup, load up the graber design, select the part you want to print and export it as an STL file from sketchup.by 3dkarma - Reprappers
1. Printing a skirt around the object allows the nozzle to prime and any blobs to be scraped off before the printer starts on the piece you're trying to print. 2. If your filament is only coming out in small drops, your print head is too far away from the bed. The nozzle needs to be close enough to smoosh the first layer of plastic into the bed.by 3dkarma - Reprappers
What printer / electronics do you have?by 3dkarma - General
This shouldn't really make a difference, but in your new Configuration.h you define your board as number 33 - it should be BOARD_RAMPS_13_EFB, which is defined as 33 in boards.h. I think it was consistent between the two version of Marlin you've been using, but I'm not sure. If you want to use E1 as your default extruder, you could try modifying pins.h. For BOARD_RAMPS_13_EFB, lines 680 througby 3dkarma - Printing
Quotekrwynn No problem with the plywood getting too hot? Are the NEMA motors all 12v 1.2 amp? Thanks! The ply doesn't get too hot at all, although if you're at all concerned I'd suggested covering the bottom of the heated bed in a layer of kapton tape, then aluminium foil on top of the ply to reflect the heat. We run these all day long and have never had a problem The motors are 1.5A 3.75V andby 3dkarma - For Sale