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Collecting and discussing themes for our magazine.
Re: Parts for a belt driven extruder in the UK? - 9 years ago
Quotejaguarking11 The whole point of a belt drive is to increase the retraction speed and possibly the precision. If your running a 5:1 or 4:1 ratio there will still be some problems. Do you really need so much torque? I find my belt driven extruder with a 2:1 ratio works very well in the 150mm/s range with 1.75mm filament. I have retraction set at 200mm/s in the 3.5mm range and this is for a bowby 3dkarma - Mechanics
Re: Parts for a belt driven extruder in the UK? - 9 years ago
My belts only just arrived. I'm planning on modifying the Wade's. Pulleys are also difficult to source, so I'll be printing the larger pully. I'll use a standard 16 tooth pulley and marry it with an 80 tooth printed pulley, to give me a 5:1 drive ratio.by 3dkarma - Mechanics
Re: Extuded quantity is not even - 9 years ago
Sounds like your temperature might be too low or, if this is only happening on the first layer, your nozzle is too close to the bed. What temperature are you printing at?by 3dkarma - Printing
Re: Adding an extra cooling fan - 9 years ago
Just the red and black and you're good.by 3dkarma - Reprappers
Re: What is the REAL Prusa i3 size? - 9 years ago
Lasercut aluminium frame is 368mm tall and 370mm wide. Long threaded bolt along the Y axis is 380mm.by 3dkarma - Reprappers
Re: Parts for a belt driven extruder in the UK? - 9 years ago
I have searched high and low for these in the UK and not been able to find any. I had to resort to ordering from China through AliExpress.by 3dkarma - Mechanics
Re: installing drivers - 9 years ago
Orient the RAMPS board so the power connectors are to the left. The stepper drivers should be placed with the trim pot (shiny metal circle) to the right. That's with reasonably standard drivers. What drivers do you have?by 3dkarma - RepRap magazine
Re: Starting print heating problem
- 9 years ago
Take a look at the gcode file and look for M140 or M190 (these set the heat bed temperature). This will tell you whether the problem's with your slicing software or your printer's firmware. An M140 or M190 instruction to set the heat bed temperature to 0 indicates an issue with the slicing software settings.by 3dkarma - Printing
Re: What is happening with this print? - 9 years ago
It's not a daft question. Almost everyone eventually runs into this problem. You got the cause right: the ears don't have enough time to cool before each successive layer is laid down, hence the melty look. You've got three basic options: install active cooling (a fan pointed at the nozzle), print a cooling tower (just needs to be an additional object as tall as the print but far enough away fby 3dkarma - Reprappers
Re: Motor stuttering problem, I suspect Ramps board. - 9 years ago
Try lowering the speed a bit.by 3dkarma - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Final/closing layers issue - 9 years ago
Try increasing retraction.by 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics
Re: Final/closing layers issue - 9 years ago
In Slic3r, go to "Printer Settings", then "Extruder 1." "Lift Z" is in the Retraction section. Play with your retraction length settings to see what effect they have on your problem.by 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics
Re: Final/closing layers issue - 9 years ago
Are you using lift? This combined with low retraction may cause peaks. The head passing back over the peaks would overheat and brown the filament.by 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics
Re: Prusa i3V and Ninja Flex - 9 years ago
Quotedavidbrownds 3dkarma, are you using this setup on your printer? Do you have a Hexagon head? I see above you mentioned you have E3D Dave I'm using it successfully on an i3 with and E3D v6. Edit: I had to up my extrusion multiplier to 1.6 to get the filament to feed properly, as it compresses as it goes over the hobbed bolt. You will need to play with this setting as your guidler tensby 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics
Re: Ramps 1.4, Sparkfun XBee shield, two way communication ! - 9 years ago
This RAMPS 1.4 pin diagram might help:by 3dkarma - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Prusa i3V and Ninja Flex - 9 years ago
I've done one that works nicely with an E3D hotend. What hotend do you have?by 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics
Re: Prusa I3 Help - 9 years ago
Have you loaded the firmware onto it yet?by 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics
Re: Extruder dimensions - 9 years ago
Grab netfabb or sketchup, download the relevant files from thingiverse and you'll be able to do all the measuring you need.by 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics
Re: Wiring up my heatbed for a mendel i2 - 9 years ago
The two LEDs are there so that one will light up regardless of how the heated bed is connected: . Read the full page - lots of info on your heated bed. The thermistor is not connected to the heated bed. The glass bead of the thermistor is poked through the hole in the heated bed so that it contacts your glass printing surface (if you have one). The thermistor is wired directly to your electrby 3dkarma - Reprappers
Re: Error 0: Printer stopped due to errors - 9 years ago
Quotedc42 QuoteTech-Masterz Do you know of any places or links that would have like a 20-25A power supply? These are widely available on eBay. I use the 12V 25A one from for my dual-extruder Ormerod. For a single-extruder MK, a 20A one should be more than adequate. I use the 360W version of these. Perfectly capable of driving dual hot ends and a heated bed.by 3dkarma - General
Re: need help to connect mega 2560 - 9 years ago
Do you have a RAMPS board and the rest of the electronics (stepper drivers)? You'll need to plug the RAMPS board into the mega, plug the jumpers in to enable micro stepping and plug the stepper drivers into the RAMPS (make sure you get the orientation correct and and then wire it to your printer. Take a look at the wiring guide on the wiki: and do a google search for RAMPS 1.4 setup - you'llby 3dkarma - General Mendel Topics
Re: Error 0: Printer stopped due to errors - 9 years ago
Is the temperature of the hot end dropping as the print head moves? It may be that your power supply can't provide enough current to power both hot end and movement at the same time. If not, it may be that the hot end thermistor is either disconnecting or shorting as the print head moves. I seem to remember mintemp is a symptom of disconnection (resistance increases as temperature decreases).by 3dkarma - General
Re: Filtration System - 9 years ago
If you're interested in a slightly simpler but slightly less efficient solution, the Scott Safety Promask Replacement Filter P3 to EN 143 has a reasonable performance profile for particulate sizes of 70 nanometers (.07 µm / micrometers) and up. The ULPA standard specifies removal of at least 99.999% of particles 0.1 µm or larger. The Scott P3 filter removes 99.9993% of 0.07 µm, 99.9963% of 0.12by 3dkarma - Safety & Best Practices
Re: Z axes do not home correctly anymore - 9 years ago
Maybe try M503 to see if a Z offset has been set in EEPROM, or send M206 Z0 to set 0 Z offset?by 3dkarma - RAMPS Electronics
[UK] Prusa i3 Kit with E3D v6 Hotend; Filament and Parts - 9 years ago
We've just started selling an enhanced version of the Prusa i3 rework kit, the 3DKi3. It has improved frame and bed stability, comes with an E3D v6 hot end and a variant of the Greg's Wade extruder designed to support flexible filaments. We also have a wide range of 1.75mm and 3mm PLA filament, PVA filament and some of the harder-to-get parts, including RUMBA boards, borosolicate glass plates aby 3dkarma - For Sale
Re: Z axes do not home correctly anymore - 9 years ago
Normally happens when your Z axis end stop has become disconnected. Check the wiring and send M119 to the printer to see end stop status.by 3dkarma - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Wyoming Topo Map - 9 years ago
terrain2stl is a pretty good tool - locate the area you want on a map, press a button and hey presto - STL file magically downloaded.by 3dkarma - Object repositories