Yep, that was the first thing I checked Note they changed "print center" to "origin" in v1.2.9 Here's the two side by side, settings are the sameby cassetti - Slic3r
Greetings, I have been using Slic3r 1.1.7 with my Flashforge Creator Pro perfectly for months now. I have hundreds of hours of successful prints (around 4.5 Km of filament extruded). I finally download the new stable release of 1.2.9 and I notice the bed settings must have changed (yes I saw the popup about the new bed-shape feature). Because now my g-code sends the extrude to nearly off theby cassetti - Slic3r
Upgraded from a Prusa i2 3D printer to a new Flashforge creator pro. I have approximately 4kG of 3.0mm filament which I have NO use for. Does anyone want to trade filaments? I'm looking for any filament with 1.75mm diameter - PLA or ABS, color does not matter. Here is the 3.0mm filament I have: - 0.75kG - Gray PLA (on spool) - 0.8kG - Silver PLA - 0.5kG - Blue Glow-in-the-dark PLA - 0.5kG - blby cassetti - For Sale
Hello! I have a Makerbot Replicator and FlashForge Creator Pro which I use to produce accessories for a very niche market. One of my accessories has attracted a LOT of attention, and I have more volume than I can handle with my printer. I'm looking for someone with an SLS or SLA printer to produce high definition parts for my growing customer base. I would be looking to order approximately 100by cassetti - Job Shop: I need stuff made!
Purchased a Rostock MAX kit from SeeMeCNC in February 2013 - R7 generation. I purchased a new platform, Arms, and Cheapskates U-joints recently to fix some over-sanding issues (too lose). It turns out my platform was perfectly sanded, and didn't need to be replaced. So the platform will need some sanding to fit properly. The delta arms are first generation (tough to get on, but strong!), but noby cassetti - For Sale
I hate to do this, but I'm sick of it. I bought a kit from SeeMeCNC in February, 2013. I finished building the printer in mid June. I have only 170 hours on the printer, but I had an issue with the original power resistors (shorted the thermistor), so I installed a new cartridge heater and a fresh thermistor. It's built, it works, but I can't for the life of me get it properly calibrated. Theby cassetti - For Sale
Wow! So suprised by the response I got on this board, thanks everyone! I'm still not ready to buy parts and start building yet (too much other stuff going on at the moment), but I'm still very much interested in seeing everyone's suggestions. Funny though, it seems many of the RepRap designs are converging on a 90-degree designby cassetti - General
Quotecozmicray Look at It's a 3D jungle out there! Perhaps a Rigidbot? Maybe an Ordbot Hadron Lol, yeah, I am an RSS subscriber to 3ders.org - great site. I think i've seen an ordbot hadron before, but don't know much about it - seems pretty small, but I like the fact they're using makerslides.... Time to do some more research! Quotevegasloki From my perspective as a supplier and OEM iby cassetti - General
Quotevegasloki I don't see the MM2 appealing to most DIY Reprappers. The appeal is for those shops that are looking to get into a machine, don't mind spending a couple grand and be able to print more types of plastic and nylon. These guys have looked at entry level machines from 3DS and others and are willing to spend a few grand to get up and going to test the waters but not $10 or $20 grand fby cassetti - General
QuoteSublime I would avoid all printers where the printed objects moves in any direction other than Z as they all suffer from the same issues with the moving mass and vibration that lower the print quality (yes you can tune one to get good prints but not as easy as the following types of machines). So that leaves you with geometries like: Delta (3DR, Kossel, Rostock), CoreXY (don't know any by naby cassetti - General
Stonecoldskier Simply put, I am not impressed with the design of the Ecksbot. The threaded rods require very precise adjustments to make everything 'true' and square. The rods are also susseptable to bending, hell they aren't even entirely straight when purchased new from mcmaster! Moreover, the X and Y axis are loose. Aside from some acetone glue (which has come loose), there is nothing holdingby cassetti - General
I understand the expiremental nature of the RepRaps, but some designs have much more documentation and a larger support community than others. When building my Ecksbot, I had a forum support community of approximately 10 active members. Asking questions required days of patience waiting for a response from the forum visitors or the Ecksbot team. Wherease when I built my Rostock max from a kit - tby cassetti - General
Hello All! I'm not sure if this board is the proper one for this post, but I couldn't find a better place for this. Disclaimer: this is NOT a "which printer is best" post. I have built two repraps and have a Makerbot Replicator at work. I have a fair amount of experience with the various designs and limitations. My first RepRap was an "Ecksbot" (Prusa i2 Variation). I spent a fair amount of mby cassetti - General
aduy Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > ok well absolutely no wd-40. take the shields off, > if they are metal you will not be able to put them > back in so only remove one, then remove the nylon > retainer, if they are metal then just leave them. > then clean with acetone until all residue is > removed. then re-lube with speed cream or any lube >by cassetti - General
No cleaning required? Is lithium grease ok? Or should I buy something else? (Lithium is allI I got)by cassetti - General
Asking on here because I couldn't really find a better forum for the thread.... Going through my basement and cleaning up, I came across some old 608ZZ bearings from my "Rollerblades" (Circa 1990's, official brand) - I had upgraded to ABEC5(I think?) higher speed bearings at the time, and saved the original ones. Being the mild hoarder I am, they survived moving to 3 houses all these years in twby cassetti - General
Aside from Garolite, what has everyone found? I'm just starting to play with some 618, and now worried about attempting a longer print.... Right now I'm running my Onyx bed at 75c and using 3" wide blue tape on glass. I found on a previous printer that wider blue tape can help preven the print from pulling the tape away from the bed (especially if you watch where you place the tape seams in relby cassetti - General
Nevermind, since I couldn't find a solution, I used standard slicing profile, and simply edited the G-code to delete the last 3 layers. Thankfully it was easier than I thought to read the Gcodeby cassetti - Skeinforge
Ok, I'm REALLY confused here - having trouble with a koch vase I found on Thingiverse - the STL i downloaded has some issues when rendering with skeinforge (the 2 shells never touch). So the designer uploaded a different version of the STL which is completely solid. I suspect I this file will render better than the other version of the STL, but I can't for the life of me figure out how to disablby cassetti - Skeinforge
Thank you so much, I will try that and see how it goes. This has always been one of the most confusing things for me to figure out with Linuxby cassetti - Slic3r
Ok, I tried to search, but everything I saw mentioned RepieterHost which I installed, but it seems Slic3r did not install with repieterhost as skienforge did with printrun/pronterface I have used linux over the past few years, usually ubuntu, this is my first foray into Fedora since version 7! I have a copy of Fedora 18, I have installed Pronterface, but that came with skeinforge unfortunately.by cassetti - Slic3r
Hello Built a Prusa i2 type printer from scratch and wasn't too pleased with the design. I would like to scrap parts from this printer (motors, hotend, hotbed) and use them to build a new MendelMax. I'm not ready for the MM2.0, so I would like the MM1.5+ with the makerslide Y axis upgrade. Looking for all hardware needed to build a MendleMax 1.5 (nuts, bolts, extrusions, couplers, etc). Lookiby cassetti - Wanted
Haha, I was looking at a Solidoodle, but wasn't too impressed. I was about to pull the trigger and build a MendelMax 1.5 last month, but then version 2.0 was announced that addressed MANY of my concerns, unfortunately it's still in beta! So I'm probably in the market for a dual extruder printer.by cassetti - RepRap User Group - Delaware
Wow! Another local! What kind of printer do you have AJdoodler? I'm looking to use this year's tax return on a new (more stable) printer, still haven't decided on which oneby cassetti - RepRap User Group - Delaware
McMaster.com, I assume you are building a metric model, since there are so few decent SAE models out there.... Pm me if you need item numbers, I have a partial bom of McMaster parts for my metric prusa Mendel printerby cassetti - RepRap User Group - Delaware
Welcome! Pm me if you get suck or need a hand, i am 15 minutes down Kirkwood highway. Its a long journey, but well worth it. I built my prusa i2 from scratch, took 4 months before i had a functional printer.by cassetti - RepRap User Group - Delaware
Is the site still live? I'm not able to get to the site!by cassetti - Plastic RepRap Parts for Sale
Haha, thanks. I've actually finally got my Ecksbot (prusa i2 variant) running. Just in time to take a week's vacation in vegas, I'm going to spend the whole week thinking about it lol. I've actually got 2 printrboards I could use help with. If you know how to troubleshoot PCB's send me a PM. Check out my build progress here - Still working out the bugs (like replacing my cracked glass panel oby cassetti - RepRap User Group - Delaware
Sniper4395 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Read your posts on Printrbottalk. Looks like you > havent tried a new USB cord yet. This is a problem > that happens often. I've actually been through 4 > different USB cords each from a different > manufacturer and only 1 works for my Printrboard. > If it isnt popping up in New Hardware at all then >by cassetti - General Mendel Topics