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Re: Slic3r setting 7800 feedrate for Z movements. Stumped - 7 years ago

in the link i've found the problem. In the config file i have to treat the default acceleration limits as units/sec2 and not mm/sec2. I had that setting way too high for this units. I'm playing with it but i can now safely run the command that was messing my gccode (namely, g1 Z## F7800)

by ansiomatic - Slic3r

Re: Slic3r setting 7800 feedrate for Z movements. Stumped - 7 years ago

maybe that's the problem, cause i had been printing fine until i started messing around with the firmware to install a z probe. is there an option in the printer to enforce this limit? thanks for the reply

by ansiomatic - Slic3r

Slic3r setting 7800 feedrate for Z movements. Stumped - 7 years ago

so. everything i slice comes with 7800 feedrate for the z axis, which is way too much for my motors. I've looked at similar posts in the forums but i couldn't find an answer to this, and i've searched the slic3r configs without any luck. Recently i've opened the marlin code loaded in my printer and searched 7800 in all sketch tabs but found 0 coincidences... i'm really stumped.. thinking abo

by ansiomatic - Slic3r

Re: Burned an analog port.. how to debug to see what needs replacing? - 10 years ago

hmm.. that was my guess.. thanks for taking me out of the doubt. i should surely modify my ramps board for that right? i have no problems with soldering, i'll look into that, hopefully i'll manage to find some space on the board to route the pin. many thanks.

by ansiomatic - Controllers

Re: measuring and writing thermistor table - 10 years ago

you're probably right.. i'm just moving too close sometimes to the max temp emergency turn off, but i could just raise that threshold.

by ansiomatic - Reprappers

Burned an analog port.. how to debug to see what needs replacing? - 10 years ago

So, i was there the other day thinking "Boy, it's such a hassle to change my hotend since i have to take out all its cables from the ribbon.. I should get some plugs for fast hotend switching", so i ordered a set of molex plugs and as soon as they arrived i started cutting the thermistor cable so i could attach the plug when *SPARK*... i had forgotten to switch off the power supply. The temperatu

by ansiomatic - Controllers

Re: extruder skipping with PLA - 10 years ago

yippies. Beautiful prints. a tiiiiny bit of oozing apparently which i think it's because a bridge got loose. Thanks for the help

by ansiomatic - Printing

Re: extruder skipping with PLA - 10 years ago

i think my thermistor is poorly calibrated (actually, i've never calibrated it. just went with stock thermistor tables on marlin) and i have a pcb-aluminum sheet-glass sandwich which further reduces the temperature.. IR thermometer on glass reads 70°, which i guess it's ok (but i have no idea how glass on aluminum affects IR readings, so yea.. it sticks and it doesn't appear to deform the prints)

by ansiomatic - Printing

foro de bienvenida - 10 years ago

Hola a todos los repraperos paraguayos! Espero que podamos ponernos en contacto para armar la comunidad, ayudar a otros a tener andando sus impresoras, y armar una red de soporte para el país! Tengo una prusa i3 funcionando en asunción, y ahora estoy imprimiendo con PLA... la humedad no ayuda en nada! no sé si alguien más lo noto, pero si no cuidan su filamento le entra humedad y al imprimir lo

by ansiomatic - RepRap User Group - Paraguay

Re: extruder skipping with PLA - 10 years ago

Now i'm printing ok, although i have to recalibrate the extruder potentiometer as it heats up quite a bit (reminiscent from the times i thought that a pot turning was needed). I'm printing with 0.2mm layer height, 2mm retraction, 170°C head and 100° bed (yea, i know it's a bit high for the bed, but i'm so frustrated from ABS bed unsticking i don't want to take any risks..) i tried printing an O

by ansiomatic - Printing

Re: extruder skipping with PLA - 10 years ago

i have no idea how i managed to post as Plastikschmelzer.. that was me talking

by ansiomatic - Printing

Re: extruder skipping with PLA - 10 years ago

Right now i'm printing after taking the hot end apart and purging it.. at 175 doesn't skip, but the print warps a bit, so i'm reducing it now to 170. maybe the warping could be corrected with a fan pointing towards the print (which i took out because it made my ABS prints unstick from bed).. Anyhow, here's my extruder.. Do you know where i can get better designs? i can't see any fan mounting hol

by ansiomatic - Printing

extruder skipping with PLA - 10 years ago

hello, i'm having a problem where the extrduer motor starts skipping steps (edit: the motor does not skips steps, it's the gears that slip past each other).. I'm posting here because i've already tried to crank up the extruder motor pot way too high already without success, and because it only happens when i print with PLA (with ABS it extrudes fine, but i can't get it to stick to the bed :< )

by ansiomatic - Printing

Re: measuring and writing thermistor table - 10 years ago

oh, also, i mistrust my IR thermometer because it varies so much depending on where i point it... my guess is to search for the highest temp and keep that one?

by ansiomatic - Reprappers

measuring and writing thermistor table - 10 years ago

hi, i want to calibrate the shit out of my thermistor to rule out bad temp as a possibility for an issue i'm having. How could i do this? but more importantly, what's the best way to measure the temperature? Is an IR thermometer good enough? How could i know if my IR thermometer is correctly calibrated? I know that IR thermometers read infrared light and estimate the temperature with this readin

by ansiomatic - Reprappers

RepRap Paraguay - 10 years ago

Hi, i'm a reprap owner living in Paraguay, and i'm getting the feel that there are many more interested in this. I'd like to open a local forum so we can talk in spanish about sourcing materials in Paraguay, and offer guidance to anyone interested in building one.. many thanks

by ansiomatic - Request a Local RepRap User Group

Re: armando mi primera prusa - 11 years ago

hola a todos. tuve un accidente por lo que no pude hacer nada durante un mes y medio mas o menos. me olvide que habia posteado esto, asi que los actualizo. La prusa ya está imprimiendo. El problema era la pieza que agarraba las varillas, los agujeros estaban mal alineados. Comprando un pedazo de madera y agujereandolo yo funciono. o al menos lo suficiente como para que imprima bien, me entere qu

by ansiomatic - RepRap Usergroup - Argentina

Re: Can't get to 120° on the bed. PSU problem? - 11 years ago

does PLA stick better? at what temp? i have a roll of PLA left there forgotten from the time i had no heat bed on the printrbot. ABS parts just look a lot better, the opacity it has does a lot for the looks in contrast to the glassy style of PLA. And it was a struggle to get PLA stick to the bed... i had to rely a lot on hairspray.

by ansiomatic - Reprappers

Re: Can't get to 120° on the bed. PSU problem? - 11 years ago

i'm printing at 100 degrees right now and it's all coming well for now. BUT the bed still takes like 25 mins to heat up.. i'll keep on trying to get those 12V from my PSU, but now i know that i can keep on printing for now thanks

by ansiomatic - Reprappers

Re: Can't get to 120° on the bed. PSU problem? - 11 years ago

hey first of all, i thought 120 was the temperature for ABS.. There are so many opinions on the internet i guess, and since 120 worked for me on the printrbot i thought it was a must. I printed a cellphone case @ max temp (~110) and one corner lifted a little bit. I presumed it was the temperature, but my bed was probably dirty.. And yea, i got a piece of wood under the bed for insulation. Tha

by ansiomatic - Reprappers

Re: Can't get to 120° on the bed. PSU problem? - 11 years ago

I've measured some voltages, maybe it's useful Voltage with bed off (with base load) : 11.98 Voltage with bed on (with base load) : 11.54 Voltage with bed off (w/o base load) : 11.85 Voltage with bed on (w/o base load) : 11.52

by ansiomatic - Reprappers

Can't get to 120° on the bed. PSU problem? - 11 years ago

Hi, i'm an inch away from finishing my prusa i3. I own a printrbot simple too and modded it to support a heated bed so i can print with ABS. Some months ago i got a prusa i3 kit, but i can't get the bed to 120° no matter how long i leave the thing on. It just gets to <110. I'm using old PC PSUs for both printers, and while it works fine with the printrbot, i think it's not doing the trick wi

by ansiomatic - Reprappers

prusa i3 y belt alignment problem - 11 years ago

Hi, i'm a bit frustrated with the prusa kit i bought. i can't get the y axis belt aligned.. At the idler bearing, the belt moves side to side, but more to one side than the other, so it gets to the point where it pushes against the idler holder walls and it generates increasingly more and more friction until the stepper starts missing steps.. It's just impossible to avoid this. I've assembled an

by ansiomatic - General Mendel Topics

Re: armando mi primera prusa - 11 years ago

no hay caso con alinear la correa.. lo toco un poquiiiito y la correa ya empieza a correrse para un lado, chocar contra las paredes del idler y generar fricción.. no entiendo como no pasa lo mismo con el eje X. Ahí puedo ver que la correa toca la pared de la pieza que sostiene el idler, pero no genera ni por mucho la fricción que me genera en el eje Y.. ya lo alinee cuarenta veces, pero aunque lo

by ansiomatic - RepRap Usergroup - Argentina

Re: pid autotune bed failed - 11 years ago

oh. i thought the sub forum was for repetier-host. i actually didn't know there was something like repetier firmware! thanks

by ansiomatic - Repetier

Re: pid autotune bed failed - 11 years ago

Quoterepetier That might the command for Marlin, but not for Repetier-Firmware. i use repetier-host.. not repetier firmware. i've tried with the P instead of the E and got no response.

by ansiomatic - Repetier

Re: armando mi primera prusa - 11 years ago

hola isamu. gracias por los consejos. ahora entiendo la parte F5000 del comando. en cuanto a la correa, tenias razon. una vez chequeado que todas las varillas esten paralelas, la correa corre mas o menos sin curvarse... lo suficiente para no chocar contra las paredes del idler y generar friccion. ahora mismo estoy dando vueltas con la punta caliente.. filtraba material por la rosca del cabezal

by ansiomatic - RepRap Usergroup - Argentina

Re: armando mi primera prusa - 11 years ago

bue, gracias! otra pregunta. importa si la correa choca contra las paredes de la pieza que sostiene el ruleman (idler) del eje Y? siento que mme genera friccion pero no logro que corra suave. quizas es la cama que está desencuadrada. mañana voy a intentar hacer una nueva.

by ansiomatic - RepRap Usergroup - Argentina

Re: armando mi primera prusa - 11 years ago

de vuelta.... empezo a imprimir mr jaws de maravilla, cuando escucho ese sonido horrible en una de las retracciones y cuando volvio a bajar la punta estaba una buena fraccion de milimetro por debajo de donde habia empezado.. ahora le baje más el feed rate, pero empiezo a sospechar que hay algo mas que no estoy cachando.. será la fuente? me sorprendería, ya que el carril que estoy usando aguanta 1

by ansiomatic - RepRap Usergroup - Argentina

Re: armando mi primera prusa - 11 years ago

ok. Toqueteando un poco resolvi el problema reduciendo el Feedrate maximo de 5 mm/s a 3.5 mm/s (jugué un poco hasta obtener el valor máximo sin que se traben los motores). Ojalá mi solución le sirva a alguien en la misma que yo!

by ansiomatic - RepRap Usergroup - Argentina