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I've had my share of issues when printing things, but have never seen this. I use Slicer to create the gcode, it renders in Pronterface fine. I also checked it in another gcode renderer and it rendered fine.
I've had my head get out of whack, but in that case both parts shifted, not just one.
I attached the gcode file as well, if anyone can see anything wrong with it.
Ideas?
EDIT: I hate i
by
dpeart
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Printing
Oops, you are so correct. I now remember that
thank you
Quotethe_digital_dentist
You set the print speed in the slicer. The numbers set in the firmware are absolute maximums and probably don't need to be changed.
by
dpeart
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General
Recently I've been setting my print speed in Pronterface to 120%. I've found no degradation in print quality at this setting. How do I go about modifying the BIOS settings of the printer to maintain the same print speed, but have it at 100% setting.
I remember setting it up initially and getting all the parameters setup was difficult so I'm hesitant to mess with it, but seeing that I can easil
by
dpeart
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General
Yes you understand it correctly. I'll just add a small disc to the top of each hex inset as I can't find a way to get automatic supports created without filling up every hole.
I like those screws as well.
thanks
david
by
dpeart
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General
I'm hoping for some ideas on how to get my model to work out nicely.
I'm building a case for a project that has four screws to hole the lid to the base. The base has a hex inset for the m3 nut, that transitions to a 3mm hole for the screw shaft. i would like to have the transition from hex to circle be done such that the first layer of the circle is solid, so that it will bridge over the hex h
by
dpeart
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General
OK I wasn't sure how to make it a library. Thanks!
by
dpeart
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OpenSCAD
Well here is what I came up with:
//
$fn=20;
function db_conn_table(idx) =
// b, d, f, k
idx == "db9F" ? [12.50,11.10,6.53,2.11] :
idx == "db9R" ? [12.50,11.10,5.72,3.35] :
idx == "db15F" ? [16.66,15.27,6.53,2.11] :
idx == "db15R" ? [16.66,15.27,5.72,3.35] :
idx == "db25F" ? [23.52,22.15,6.53,2.11] :
idx == "db25R" ? [23.52,21.39,5.72,3.35] :
idx == "db37F" ? [31.75,29.54,6.53,2.11] :
by
dpeart
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OpenSCAD
I like the hull() { of four cylinders } idea, that should be straightforward.
thanks,
david
by
dpeart
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OpenSCAD
Does anyone know of a library to create d-sub connectors? I'm looking to make a panel to mount a db-15 connector and was wondering if someone has a library already done before I try to write create one myself.
thanks
david
by
dpeart
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OpenSCAD
Dave,
I ended up going the other way, and made it a bit wider. This allowed slic3r to only create a single print there and it fixed it as well. When I tried to go thinner I had issues getting the first layer to stick.
thanks for the response,
david
by
dpeart
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Slic3r
I'm using version 1.2.9 and am seeing an issue with the slicing. I'm slicing an extruded design that is admittedly thin. The last time I sliced it was with version 1.0.0 and it sliced fine.
What happens now is that I get a piece of the part missing because the slicer starts/stops on the print and they do not connect. They "almost" connect but don't. I'm wondering if someone has an idea on how
by
dpeart
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Slic3r
I'm in need of a fan duct for my printer to make my bridging better. I've tried one that just sits way back and blows over the entire part, but since it blows from one side I get warping in the part. I tried one that encircles the hot end, but that had the same issue where I would get more air on one side of the part, the side where the fan is mounted, and the part would warp again.
I'm hoping
by
dpeart
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General Mendel Topics
I'm hoping someone can help me get my fans and control all sorted out.
I'm running the latest Marlin with a RAMPS v1.4 board. I have it configured so that D9 is the fan control (motherboard 33).
I have two fans, one for the print that I want to control via slic3r. Turn on for cooling/bridging basically how D9 works today. My second fan I want as an extruder fan. I keep getting heat creeping
by
dpeart
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Firmware - mainstream and related support
Thanks, that helps a lot. I used the calculator and it did help. I ended up both slowing down and dropping the hot end temp.
david
QuoteJerseyGirl
Check this out
by
dpeart
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General
That is what I do, but as the skirt just goes in a circly around the part, it drags the small strings across the print area.
by
dpeart
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General
I'm able to print large objects (>25mm) easily, but I always have issues with anything smaller than that. What I see happen on every print is a little bit of dribble out the hot end, that then gets smudged around as the print starts. I print a perimeter with a minimum lenght 10 mm, because typically by that time the time has cleaned itself off, and it printing nicely.
However, when printing
by
dpeart
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General
Interesting. If I use windows to extract the zip file, those diretories are not extracted.
7-zip work fine.
glad to now know how to get it to work.
thanks,
david
by
dpeart
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Slic3r
So I just tried to install v 1.1.7 by downloading the complete download and extracting to my computer. When I run it I get a map loader error. I've noticed that sometimes the lib and res directories are missing from the package and I have to copy these over from a previous install. This is true for 1.1.7, but not for 1.1.6. If I copy over those directories from 1.1.6 to 1.1.7 then 1.1.7 runs.
by
dpeart
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Slic3r
I was never able to get the print quality to where I wanted it. I applied the bowden options in slic3r and that made a big difference, but the print still wasn't as good as I can get with Wade's extruder so switched back. The speed was faster, and there was less movement in the printer when printing with the bowden, but it wasn't enough to make up for the loss of quality.
dave
by
dpeart
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General Mendel Topics
Look a little closer at what that does. It isn't about importing a DXF, yes anything can do that. It will import a DXF file, then based on the layers in that file, create a printable object. It extrudes the three different layers independantly and you can create some pretty cool stuff. All with a single scad file.
dave
by
dpeart
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OpenSCAD
You can also do cool things like this:
Take a look at how you can import a DXF file and create 3d model easily.
Not very practical in a 3D cad program.
dave
by
dpeart
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OpenSCAD
I too removed my micro switch lever and found it to be more consistent. In the end I put it back on because when a M402 is issued the z-axis does not move up at all. This causes the switch to hit the bed as it rotates up. I found that this scratched my bed and I now have 5 spots on my get that are scratch. The lever has a roller on it. so there is no collision with the bed.
It would be nice
by
dpeart
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General Mendel Topics
My infill is set at 25%, so I added a 4th top layer. We'll see how that does.
dave
by
dpeart
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Slic3r
I am seeing holes on the solid layers on top of honeycomb infill. I'm thinking that the printer may be going too fast over the infill so the filament is snapping and leaving holes. Each successive layer looks better than the first but the holes never go away completely.
How do I slow down the speed for the first solid layer on top of infill? I thought it was this setting: Top solid infill:, b
by
dpeart
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Slic3r
I got my bowden extruder setup and working well. Still have a little ooze, but I'm hopeful I can get rid of it all by increasing the retraction setting a bit more.
I was also able to print faster. Now to push it till it breaks . . . right?
I made a bowden plate, it holds the tubing anchor that I got from HD and bolts onto the hot end instead of the extruder. Pretty simple actually.
I also p
by
dpeart
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General Mendel Topics
I got my x-ends designed/modified and printed to support the lead screws I bought Maker's Tool Works. They work very nicely.
I'm printing on Ultem sheeting and it holds the parts very well, need to cool it down before trying to remove the part, but it is well worth it.
Now looking to add auto bed leveling, and thinking about moving the extruder from the x-carriage to the top of the frame, and
by
dpeart
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General Mendel Topics
A small update. I was able to finally get a print to come off nicely. I printed a replacement large extruder gear. I couldn't get the natural colored PLA filament I got with the kit to print anything without warping. I swapped it out for some black that I had purchased elsewhere and it printed beatifully. I wish I had just started with that first off.
Now on to designing replacement x-ends
by
dpeart
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General Mendel Topics
OK, in that case I had it correct the first time and shouldn't have changed it. I guess I thought that the slicer would change the extrusion depending on speed to ensure the thickness specified by the nozzle. I did not know that it would change depending on slicing depth.
An easy fix.
thanks,
dave
by
dpeart
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General
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Pages: 12