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QuoteFuselium
Im using 1,75mm Fillament.
So i have to pull out the liner with some Kind of tool and Put in my bowden Tube right?
Thanx
There's a little clip you need to insert which would of come with it. The metal ring screws in, then the plastic clip, clips into the ring. You remove the liner first, which is just a bit of bowden tube anyway, and then push the bowden tube all the way in.
N
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UkIan
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General
Hello, I have a queue of four people now, so unless this becomes an engineering version of "Final Destination", I'm pretty sure we're now sold
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UkIan
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For Sale
Hey, I haven't been around in a while, so I've decided to pack up my bits and pass them on to the next generation. I've got to say, the whole process of building my own printer, and the tinkering was a fantastic experience and you've all been hugely helpful it getting me through the tricky bits
I've popped a thread in the "For sale" sub forum.
My sale link
So thank you all for your time and s
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UkIan
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General
Hi, I've given up playing with 3D printers for now. It's been fun Anyway, I've just moved house, so all my stuff is currently in one crate and one cardboard box. The box has a complete i3, the crate has, jeez I have no idea, all of these:
2 or 3 E3D v6 hotends
half a dozen E3D nozzles
1 or 2 hexagon hotends
half a dozen hexagon nozzles
cabling and connectors
An E3D Kraken
A flexidrive extruder
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UkIan
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For Sale
Haha, no the purpose of the tests is to drive myself mental trying to go after perfection
I do produce really nice prints. I had to print out some Mendel 90 parts, and I've got a set of Nophead printed parts which I consider to be the gold standard. Mine are pretty good in comparison. Not perfect, but pretty damn good.
Cura never worked for me so I never persisted with it much. I did get a few
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UkIan
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Printing
Quotetmorris9
Bridging is never going to be perfect, normally the very first bridge layer is loose and possibly a little sagging, just cut it and remove and the rest should be fine. Bridging is a method to get the printer to do what it really should not be able to do (print in air).
hah, I want it perfect, but I get what you mean. I can bridge well as part of a model, short distances, or doing c
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UkIan
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Printing
I've attached the model I'm using to test bridging with ABS. I can't make it work. I can get close, but the underside always looks, at best, a little bit like the various strands melted and sagged a little.
I've used two ABS's so far. I have one more to try, but I've no reason to think it's much better. The other two are absolutely fine for all models, just not this bridging.
The lowest tempera
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UkIan
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Printing
I'm not the best person to ask as I don't really know what I'm doing, so I can give you all the advice I've gleaned.
They arrive flat, i.e. with the strips of pins waiting to be soldered. Soldering them on isn't tricky. I have a spare Ramps board so I pushed the pins in there, sat the board on top and soldered away.
Remember the chip faces DOWNWARD.
When you put it in the ramps (or what ever
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UkIan
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General
Quotejessicabrenner
... How and where do I set the speed ...
There are two places. One is the firmware, in Marlin everything you need is in configuration.h. You can only define maximums, minimums make little sense really from a firmware perspective.
The second is in the slicer. You don't say what you're using, but as you're using PronterFace I'll guess it's Slic3r. There are a lot of settings i
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UkIan
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General
Quotethe_digital_dentist
Is there some documentation in it that I don't have? I literally don't have ANY documentation on it except for the 1 page sheet I downloaded from RRD that says the motor current should be set to 0.6A.
Nope, I watched a video possibly the original indigogo one when I got mine as it had no documentation, and that's where they explained what the nuts are for. You're slight
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UkIan
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General
Quotethe_digital_dentist
My only complaint about the BullDog XL is the hand strength required to compress the pinchwheel springs to change filament. I have relatively strong hands (I extract a lot of teeth) but I have a hard time squeezing those springs without first loosening the tension on them with a wrench. I think I'm going to design a tool for it to get some leverage.
Hi, that's by desig
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UkIan
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General
That's a cool idea actually. I've got a few options. I've got a 120mm fan that was going on a CPU cooler just kicking around, so I can probably do something with that, and I've actually got a new ATX power supply which is supposed to be for the printer I'm building at the moment, but as I need to figure out how to get electricity out of it, I might try it at least on the old printer.
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UkIan
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General
I know right??!?!?!?! It's amazing!! The only question I have is why did it me so long to find out?? Are quiet drivers a new invention, or is it just affordable ones are new?
Either way it changes the whole game on its head. The only things I've got left to shut up are the fan on the E3D hot end I'm using at the moment. I'm not sure if it's the fan or the mounting or both. If anyone is using a V
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UkIan
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General
It hasn't been all plain sailing so far. But it's a bit of a learning process.
There are three cfg pins, which technically should all be open. Initially I left the pins connected, so they just plugged into the ramps on the assumption that if they're not used, then all's good. Read on for where they got cut and the bother this caused.
I've switched the axes over one at a time. Makes like easier.
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UkIan
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General
QuoteQuackingPlums
It's called an Insulation Displacement Connector, Ian. They should probably shorten it to... I don't know... "IDC" maybe? ;-)
Available here: http://www.rapidonline.com/Cables-Connectors/IDC-39-D-39-Connectors-63714
Yes, I've noticed a cunning theme where by the acronyms actually stand for something. That said, my brief hunt on RS was a disaster. Some of them seemed to have I
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UkIan
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Mendel90
The Mendel 90 uses a type of 15 pin D connector that you slip a ribbon cable into and squeeze. Sharp things connect it and everything is good. Amazingly good, you should see the mess I got myself in trying to solder up a normal one pin by pin...
I can't find both male and female versions on (in this case RS Components).
Does anyone know what they are actually called and point out where to get t
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UkIan
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Mendel90
QuoteOhmarinus
Curious, so they are a 'drop in' replacement?
Yes and no.
Yes, but I had to configure Marlin to invert the axis that was being driven. So far I've only done Z and Y, both had to be inverted (no idea why I thought just one would, but there you go).
Second, it doesn't honour the microstep setting on the RAMPS. So my Z axis used to be set to 8X microsteps, but this is ignored by th
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UkIan
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General
Ok, I'll give it a run through and see what comes out the other end
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UkIan
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General
OMG, quick everyone drop everything and go buy these things!
Two awful videos, my phone didn't do a good job:
Noisy
not noisy
It doesn't do it justice though. My Y axis was screaming before, now it is silent.
So, some weirdness though.
First, they go in back to front AND upside down. Here is the one I soldered up next to the old driver. As you can see (or not) it is in the default silent
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UkIan
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General
Hips - 9 years ago
Accidently bought a reel of HIPS. Was thinking PET but missed :/
So I can use it as support material, does it have any other uses? I mean I assume I can just print with it as it works like ABS, but is there a reason to use it instead of ABS/PLA, or reasons not to use it instead of ABS/PLA?
ta
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UkIan
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General
I have just been through all the options for heated beds including building my own from scratch, so here are some thoughts for you.
I use Marlin firmware and RAMPS electronics mostly. Different boards have different capabilities regarding heated beds. DUET for example has a pin to drive an electronic relay so you can power a bed from a separate power supply. RAMPS is limited to 9 or 11amps for t
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UkIan
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General
okie dokie, so here's the page for the chip itself. See, I'm learning It has some useful information and I think I should be able to map their BOB board to the Watterot ones?
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UkIan
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General
Well it helps a bit. Interestingly they're designed to operate upside down which actually makes perfect sense. What I didn't understand was how to apply what he says in the first video to what how the drivers look in the second video.
So in simple terms, what do I need to connect to implement Tom's preferred stepping mode? Url set to where he discusses it on the first video.
Keep it real simple
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UkIan
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General
QuoteTraumflug
c) TMC2100 based Pololus got very good reviews recently:
They arrived and they're flat packed. Do I just solder the connecting strips on, or do the three holes at the front need anything? Also, in the third picture, it seems to be upside down in the board... Is that right? How do you cool the thing?
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UkIan
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General
Quotegordonendersby
Im using 3mm abs from 3dfilaprint. They do 1.75mm and lotsof other materials as well.
The diameter is pretty stable through the roll.
Prices are quite good as well.
Not involved with them except as a customer.
Gordon
Gak, their website doesn't work properly on the 1930's browser we have at the office. I'll have a look later. I've ordered a reel from Rigid.ink for now as hop
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UkIan
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General
Quoterhmorrison
Walter White would however only make it as blue transparent.
Yeah, but it would never warp and probably smell faintly of happiness
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UkIan
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General
I did a quick search of the forums but couldn't find any ABS recommendations only PLA. I'm about to finish a spool and it's not the best quality. It varies in diameter along its length from about 1.72 to 1.76 which is noticable in prints.
So where do I get the sort of filament Walter White would make?
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UkIan
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General
QuoteOhmarinus
Do you have a real E3D v6 or a clone? If it's a clone, good luck, I haven't seen anyone printing PLA successfully with it yet. However, you mostly only see it on forums when things go wrong so that's when people open topics to complain, so I'm not a 100% sure if nobody managed to print with PLA with it.
Good luck!
I've printed a fair bit of PLA with an E3D v6. It works fine as l
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UkIan
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General
QuoteTraumflug
a) tell them, likely they don't read this forum
b) use the delivery address as invoice address
c) TMC2100 based Pololus got very good reviews recently:
That was easy. bucket o chips ordered
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UkIan
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General
I'll let them know, it's probably the nice thing to do
Cheers guys, I'll try the SilentStepStick from Wetterott as well. Might be a better alternative actually as I questioned the sanity of having a second dial just to have to turn it always to 0 :/
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UkIan
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General
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