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I recently purchased an FLSUN G and I've been looking at modding the display to an OLED.
I already brought an I2C display before opening up the controller and seeing that it's a MKS Gen L V1 which I don't believe expands on pins 20-21.
I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions on how to go about this? Should I buy a newer MKS Base board with an I2C port or buy a serial OLED module?
Are I2C
by
ohfurryone
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Controllers
If an artist paints a picture of a famous clock tower, does that give you permission to scan that picture and claim it as yours?
The original bell may not have any copyright clauses, the work that was put in to creating that specific file is a completely different story.
Remember, all 3D design is naturally considered a craft. Artistic reservations and allowances do not apply here, especially w
by
ohfurryone
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General
I like your idea and thinking however I think the survey form might be a little misleading. I understand that many filaments release chemicals that have to be removed however you can still buy unmodified PLA filaments designed specifically for use in enclosed spaces. A majority of PLAs nowdays are modified with chemicals to improve their properties, they were originally offered as safer alternati
by
ohfurryone
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General
Is it a new printer build? Have you tried new stepper drivers? Perhaps there is an issue with a driver, shorting out as it warms up internally or feeding back current through the Mega. Maybe the extruder motor has an intermittent short.
Try to pair all wires close to their respective grounds, they don't have to be twisted but optimally within 1cm without other wires crossing in-between. Power ca
by
ohfurryone
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RAMPS Electronics
Make sure your parallel rods are the exact same distance from each other from top to bottom, this is critical. Then do the following..
Quoteohfurryone
- Make sure your end-stops are fairly accurate by measuring from the base of the printer.
- Place a piece of masking tape on one side of your bed along the X axis from center to edge.
- Lower nozzle to the bed and scribble around it with a penc
by
ohfurryone
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Delta Machines
68 to 70°C after an hour is a fairly normal operating temperature for stepper motors, especially for a delta. Try looking at any end stop signal lines and make sure they are paired close to their grounds. Maybe try twisting them together to prevent any interference causing stray signals.
by
ohfurryone
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RAMPS Electronics
I am attempting to connect a cheap Pendo Chinese tablet to my RAMPS based controller. While the Pendo is off or in standby it keeps pulling down the voltage every 5 or so seconds, it doesn't do it if the tablet is on AC.
I can keep the screen lit while on AC but I'm worried if the charger gets unplugged during a print. Is there any way I can prevent the tablet pulling down the voltage?
by
ohfurryone
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RAMPS Electronics
Openscad uses the CPU to actually create and render the model, and the GPU to display the model on screen.
If you can find out if you're maxing out your card then maybe a newer one would help, but aside from that the FPS is limited by Openscads rendering system.
by
ohfurryone
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OpenSCAD
A 0.5mm difference in spacing between the top and bottom of the parallel diagonal rods is massive and will easily cause 3-4mm of deviation from the plate. I had a similar situation as you, flying high at two towers and digging in at the other. The closer I get the diagonal rods the flatter it travels. Someone suggested cutting tiny washers out of coke cans if need be.
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ohfurryone
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Delta Machines
I solved this issue by providing a separate power line for lighting directly from the power supply. Switch-mode power supplies can only regulate voltage at their terminals so it can vary a lot at the end of the run.
If the mean well is in good working order it should solve the issue.
by
ohfurryone
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RAMPS Electronics
Rich Catell's firmware branches haven't been updated in nearly 3 years. It was never known whether the auto-leveling even worked properly. Perhaps you are looking for the version from the Marlin dev team.
Marlin Firmware Github
by
ohfurryone
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General
Even if it's a different spec it should still heat up OK past 128° unless you are maxing out your power supply. Perhaps your RAMPS isn't up to scratch but usually Sintron boards can handle decent loads. I'd check to make sure you have a decent connection to the cartridge then check to make sure your thermistor is working properly. Is it measuring room temperature properly? Don't rely on an infrar
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ohfurryone
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Delta Machines
Just to note, adjusting the feedrate on the front LCD slows the whole process down not just the rate at which filament is fed. The filament rate should scale perfectly up and down regardless of the speed.
I just viewed the video and it is definitely trying to overextrude, what is the value you have set for DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT for the extruder in your firmware?
I have some suggestions fo
by
ohfurryone
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Delta Machines
Never mind, if you haven't needed to use it it's not relevant.
I had to lower my extruders steps per mm to about 83. I end up with some pin holes in top and bottom solid layers but I can print a 1.75mm cylinder perfectly.
by
ohfurryone
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Delta Machines
QuoteOnly slight problem yet to fix, the hotend over extrudes occasionally, I have stripped it down, cleaned it right out, redrilled the nozzle, the extrusion rate is bang on 100mm, but every now and then....gloop....?
Are you adding an offset on the end of Delta Radius to make the effector travel flat?
by
ohfurryone
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Delta Machines
Well hey, would you look at that. Replace all of Sintrons frame with cheap moulded parts and magically it prints perfectly!
No more over-extrusion, holes slightly too small, large, scraping or having to level the bed every print. It only took 8 hours of setup to get it to work properly as opposed to the mess that was the other frame. When I first started the rebuild I wasn't expecting much, but
by
ohfurryone
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Delta Machines
I mean if you are popping so many over-rated relays so quickly there is probably an underlying issue. Either you have a loose connection somewhere or a length of cable section is too long or has a break in it. The wires shouldn't get warmer when you move them, they shouldn't really be warm ever. IMO it sounds like there's a very small air-gap somewhere promoting excessive arcing when the relay br
by
ohfurryone
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General
I have tried taking photos here but they keep coming out terrible and now the camera is flat.
The measurements on the effector are 38.5, 38.6 and 38.2mm. One of the cutout sections for where the nuts go is a visible trapezoid shape. They did offer a partial refund and spare parts after I left bad feedback but I didn't want to change it. Plus they obviously have zero ability to print legit parts
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ohfurryone
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Delta Machines
Try looking for a loose wire somewhere. If the transistor isn't switching it shouldn't make any noise at all, so either itself or a connection somewhere is breaking down.
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ohfurryone
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RAMPS Electronics
The relay burnouts could also have been caused by a loose wire. The power cable for the bed should be as sort as possible, 60-80cm max to avoid any issues.
I should note that switching from the RAMPs to even a cheap DC SSR may provide improvements even with the huge voltage drop. Just keep the switched portion of power cable supplying the heated bed is as short as possible.
You should always tr
by
ohfurryone
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General
Glad to see some people are still having luck with these Sintron printers, I would certainly be happy with the kit if it came like that.
However after spending many months studying 3D printing mechanics I have finally learnt that I have been scammed. You see, I purchased my kit from Sintron Australia on Ebay. I assume there are many kit suppliers, however I guess some are more legit than others.
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ohfurryone
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Delta Machines
The X and Y axis normally travel in a + shape. So facing the front of the machine, the X axis would move the effector left and right and Y would move it front to back.
Hope this helps
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ohfurryone
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Delta Machines
Can anyone here print completely flat across the whole build plate without the nozzle travelling too high or low with roller carriages?
I have not had any consistent long lasting success with rollers. If it's not the plastic bending after a few months it's the bearings wearing out. I'm looking to print at 0.1 - 0.2 layer heights.
I will also agree that the Sintron hotend is excellent, mine has
by
ohfurryone
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Delta Machines
Very interested in seeing the new revised sintron kossel parts that are being sold by them if anyone has purchased this kit recently. I have a suspicion that they might be slightly familiar to me already.. >_>
Although hopefully people are choosing better options than this printer now, I kind of hope not to see another picture of it.
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ohfurryone
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Delta Machines
I would have a look at the soldering and wires for the heatbed. The resistance test might come out OK on a multimeter but may struggle when moving current.
The solder joints on heatbeds are often just blobs of solder held on with dried flux as the aluminium cools the solder too fast. It will work OK for a while but will break down.
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ohfurryone
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RAMPS Electronics
From my understanding, the delta radius calculation should be left alone unless the actual bed is bowed. Marlin was initially designed with only a few printers in mind so the method of finding the smooth rod offset varies for others. The 'drawing-on-masking-tape' method I've found is a fairly decent universal way of finding that value, once found the nozzle should travel flat.
QuoteLarsT81
What
by
ohfurryone
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General
Make sure any terminals for cables are screwed down well, if they are loose they won't let much voltage through.
If you soldered the wires to the heat bed with a 25w soldering iron they may have dry joints as the aluminium sets solder near-instantly if it's not hot enough. If you have a multimeter try to measure the resistance between pad and wire.
by
ohfurryone
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Printing
You need to re-adjust the Smooth_Delta_Rod_Offset. It is an arbitrary value that doesn't properly apply to all types of delta so it has to be found another way.
A quick method I use:
- Make sure your end-stops are fairly accurate by measuring from the base of the printer.
- Place a piece of masking tape on one side of your bed along the X axis from center to edge.
- Lower nozzle to the bed an
by
ohfurryone
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General
You really need to include what brand of firmware you are using or find the specific forum section for it.
I am going to assume you're using Marlin as that's an issue, however it should only flash 3 * Z height like that for a split second.
The printer should also stop at any point an endstop is triggered, they should never be disabled by anything. It sounds like maybe the firmware is bugged. Ch
by
ohfurryone
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General
Openscad has similar functions to sweep known as rotate and linear extrude. It can also perform closed cross-section loft commands but cannot deal with open sections at all.
You can also download filleting scripts for openscad to blend sections together, however I have found that filleting is somewhat inefficient. In openscad if you want a filleted shape you create it with rounded objects or ext
by
ohfurryone
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General
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