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If it is important to minimise the size of the bumps, then slowing the perimeter print speed by a lot can help a lot. The slower the print speed, the better the extrusion rate matches the nozzle position. Not only is there less movement per unit time, but also the nozzle pressure is lower so there is less extrusion lag. Obviously that increases the print time - but in general the slower the pr
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dmould
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Slic3r
Yes, it is very good software, though whether it is worth the money is debateable - depends on your needs and how wealthy you are I guess! As said, you'll find that a few STLs that work fine in Slic3r will cause it to do silly things, and their tech support will just tell you that the error is with the STL, not the program, so tough - and NetFabb repair does not always fix the issue. But when i
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dmould
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Slic3r
Slice the attached STL using a layer height of 0.25mm and upload the resulting G-code file here and I'll take a look.
Dave
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dmould
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Slic3r
Quotegyrex
I'll let you know if I'd like to try out slic3r. How would it work? Is it a personal computer I'd be connecting to?
Yes - I'd just install a copy of S3D and TeamViewer (or your preferred remote application) on a spare PC, transfer the S3D license to it and leave it on while I'm at work. AFAIAA that would not breach the licence conditions of S3D, and with no other devices operating on
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dmould
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Slic3r
I don't know for sure, but FWIW I am seeing very similar rendering times on two PCs that have the same (i7) CPU, but one of which has a cheap graphics card (+/-£30), and the other a mid-range card (+/- £250). Both running Win8. If anything the PC with the expensive graphics is a bit slower, though I have never timed them so it's very subjective.
Dave
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dmould
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OpenSCAD
This is where the expensive "Simplify3D" software comes into its own. It has better control of support material than any other slicing software I've seen, allowing you to add or delete support exactly where you want it, and it also generates supports that practically fall away by themselves after completion.
I cannot see any other advantages over Slic3r though, and it is *very* unforgiving of t
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dmould
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Slic3r
First see whether the issue is with Slic3r or your controller. Make a small print file using a text editor (or send the commands manually):
G1 X0 Y0
G1 X200 Y0
G1 X200 Y260
G1 X0 Y260
G1 X0 Y0
If that results in the head moving along each edge of the bed, the issue is with Slic3r. If not, it is with your controller (disable limiting via "M564 S0" command or set limits set using M208 )
Dave
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dmould
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Slic3r
My extruder kept stopping about every hour on a spool of new filament. I eventually discovered that this filament has periodic "flat spots" as if it has been slightly crushed at intervals several meters apart. The hobbed part won't grip the flattened sections and so slips & wears a groove. Instead of throwing away that spool, I decided to design and make a friction-feed extruder for my Orm
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dmould
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Ormerod
Quoteo_lampe
What if you set a nozzle diameter that is greater than the layer height and play with the extrusion width to match your dot size?
Exactly what I would suggest. AFAIK Slic3r only uses the nozzle diameter to set maximum layer height and the automatic extrusion widths, therefore if you set the extrusion widths manually (which you will have to do with an SLA printer anyway), it makes n
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dmould
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Slic3r
My Slic3r has always taken a minute to bring up its GUI on Win8 after launching. I have no idea what it's doing for all that time. Perhaps trying to find a meaning for its existence? Trying to bring World peace? Works OK once it's decided to finally make an appearance.
Dave
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dmould
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Slic3r
You can also edit the G-code pretty easily with a text editor - leave in the initialisation code and skirt (but edit the Z height of the skirt), then cut everything from there to end of the last layer you managed to print. Home Z (set nozzle height to zero), and then send "G92 Zxxx" where xxx is the height of the last layer you printed before.
Dave
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dmould
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Slic3r
QuoteMrBaz
I've found decent results with 0.5mm default widths for everything but the Solid and top infill--set to 0.6mm. Not perfect, but acceptable.
That's what I usually use as well (in fact I set it to 0.49mm to prevent rounding errors). I set the top & bottom infill to that width as well as it gives a slightly smoother finish that the default, thicker width (but makes Z homing a tad m
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dmould
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Slic3r
Assuming that it is the same SD card that was working before, there are a few possibilities why that happened.
Your SD card might not be making proper contact - clean the contacts with a pencil eraser and try again - make sure that all the rubber bits are cleaned off and the card is properly inserted and locked in place.
The SD card might have become corrupt. Ensure you have all the folders an
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dmould
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Ormerod
Many 3D design applications do not like fully enclosed hollow spaces - including OpenScad.
Dave
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dmould
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Slic3r
It is difficult to see on the photo, but it looks like there are only 3 lines of extrusion around the wall? If so, then it is a "thin wall" - i.e. a wall that is thinner than *(2*+1). In that case there will be gaps if the wall thickness is not an exact multiple of the extrusion thickness and you do not have "gap fill" and/or "detect thin walls" checked where available - though AFAIK there is a
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dmould
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Slic3r
As a guess, I'd say that you have thin walls that are not an exact multiple of the extrusion width, which cannot be printed without a gap except by using the gap fill option which I think is buggy. You have increased the extrusion rate so as to fill that gap, which is accomplished by over-extruding.
The extrusion rate is best adjusted using solid and 90% infill as I suggested. Then to achieve
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dmould
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Slic3r
Loading that into OpenScad shows a part that has 3 solid sections separated by an extremely narrow buried gap = probably less than 0.25mm. All outside surfaces are solid. The gaps can be seen only by cutting the object.
If a gap is significantly less than the extrusion thickness then it will often be filled - if not by Slic3r then by the perimeters touching and fusing when printed due to the f
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dmould
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Slic3r
As I understand it, it was all working until you changed the bed. It is therefore unlikely to be a firmware or configuration issue.
My guess would be that your bed heater or thermistor is shorting to the frame and causing spikes or noise that crash the Duet, or maybe the hotend wiring was disturbed. Try unplugging the bed heater and thermistor at the Duet and see whether the problems disappear
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dmould
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Ormerod
QuoteInventEd
Thanks. I am in sunny West Sussex on the south coast of the UK.
I'm a few miles East of you in Seaford, so getting the parts to you will be easy.
Dave
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dmould
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Ormerod
Changing the nozzle size does not directly affect anything - it just causes Slic3r to use a different default extrusion width for everything. Instead of changing nozzle size, you can input your own values for just the perimeter widths, which will result in faster infill (because Slic3r will still use the wider width for that), though that will not fix the original issue.
In fact the single wall
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dmould
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Slic3r
Quoteruggb
Well, the stl is solid. Noeither Sketchup or Slic3r has a problem with it. I removed all the inside structure and the slice was exactly the same in time and material for both models. Did anyone try slicing the model and looking at the result? If not, why did I post it?
Post the STL rather than a file that needs an application that many of us do not have. You now say that Slic3r does
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dmould
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Slic3r
QuoteInventEd
Thanks for the advice. When the filament is driven through by hand it leaves teeth marks from the insert on the filament and is fairly stiff to turn. Is that normal?. If I do need a new part, any idea where I can get one made as Replikeo is closing down so they can't give me any support. Catch 22, until I get the printer finished I don't have a way to make parts!
What country ar
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dmould
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Ormerod
As has been said, Slic3r will certainly do that, so it is your STL which is faulty.
Dave
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dmould
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Slic3r
Either set an explicit extrusion thickness (e.g your nozzle diameter) in "Print Settings"> "Advanced" instead of leaving it as default, and/or examine the generated G code with a text editor - the extrusion thickness that Slic3r has set is stated in the comments at the start of the G code file.
Dave
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dmould
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Slic3r
QuoteSardi
Next on my mind are the acceleration speeds, could they cause my problem?
You might try reducing the maximum Z speed rather than acceleration, although if the default is causing the motor to skip, I suspect it is a bad Z rod or nut.
Dave
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dmould
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Ormerod
The sensor board will work the same, but you will probably need to adjust or modify the tab to get it the right distance from the board to trigger the sensor. Use the LED on the sensor board to get the tab in the correct position. It may be possible to simply glue a piece of stiff white cardboard onto the tab.
Meanwhile you can home the printer by hand. After power-on, just move the X & Y
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dmould
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Ormerod
Quoteormerod168
My first try in OpenScad, seems to work, amazing....
Erik
That's done it! You won't want to design with anything other than OpenScad now!
Dave
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dmould
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Ormerod
Quote11edik11
I understand, I have been printing for a year now. I can perfectly configure the first layer, but it's always less than necessary. For example, if in the settings the first layer is 0.2 mm, then in fact it is 0.1 mm, 0.3> 0.2 ... where 0.1 mm is lost (approximately)? This situation is also in other slicers.
The problem you have is that your Z homing is not accurate. Which means
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dmould
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Slic3r
Double-check that your X axis is moving in the correct direction. After homing, send "G1 X200" to ensure the carriage moves to the end of the arm, and "G1 X0" to bring it back. One of the later firmware upgrades (I don't recall which one) reversed the default X direction so you had to add a line to the config file to switch it back again (or reverse the motor wires). It is the second time the
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dmould
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Ormerod
Quoteormerod168
Very strange, I don't see this and print just fine for me
Erik
In that case I'm even more critical of their lack of support. It was a while back when I was printing some parts for another forum member, so maybe S3D has been updated, or maybe it was to do with my settings (layer height would have been 0.25mm), but apparently the STL is not to blame. At the price, I expect suppor
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dmould
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Ormerod