Got any plastic explosive? Your question is a little vague.... Do you want to use it, fix it up, on sell it or commit to landfill?by Dust - General
Current latest windows FTDI drivers do not brick the clones, they have stopped doing that after the public backlash BUT they do still detect them and now they insert "NON GENUINE DEVICE FOUND" into the serial data.. This of course breaks anything its connected to.... but doesn’t brick the unit (as such)by Dust - Prusa i3 and variants
Most heated 12v pcb beds are about 1.1 ohm , cheaper meters can't read this low. But give it a try, then short your probes and subtract that value from your reading. Or you can just plug the bed directly in to your power supply, no controller needed, it will start heating, just don’t leave it like that with no temp control it will just keep heating foreverby Dust - RAMPS Electronics
Potentially end stops yes. Send a M119 to the printer, any that say triggered, you cant move in that directionby Dust - General
Under powered power supply? What are you using for a power supply? You need minimum 16A 12v (and most power supplies lie, and cannot provide the listed current) The heated bed is quite power hungry, most use about 11ampsby Dust - Reprappers
Even with a custom shield $99 is pure profiteering. I would guess 50% profit per unit.by Dust - 3D Scanners, Book Scanners, and Optics
Choose a pin control that ping with M42 P{pin number} S{value} where you want S of 0 or 255 NB D12 is miss labelled, its actually D4 eg presume your going to use D4 (labelled on most boards as D12) Connect D4 to the green power on wire, leave that ground wire it used to use disconnected, you don’t want it. add M42 P4 S0 in you gcode start file to turn on the supply add M42 P4 S255 in your gcby Dust - General
It amazing how cheap you can make something when you do zero software development and just rip off open source projects...by Dust - 3D Scanners, Book Scanners, and Optics
The replacement looks fine Im going to guess wiring, the different steppers all have different coloured wiring. Its best to just ignore the colours and work out your coils A stepper is two coils, you need to identify which two wires form one coil, use a multimeter and look for the connected wires. If you don’t have a multi meter see for other tricks The plugs on the controller board are 4by Dust - Controllers
At a guess the GND is the metal shell of the sensor (the missing black wire)by Dust - Reprappers
If you have brought 12v 3amps stepper, for eg it will never work with standard drivers. Which is why "we" need to know what steppers you have to give you the correct advise.by Dust - Controllers
Check the endstops are working from the controller With no endstops being pressed Send the controller a M119: Get Endstop Status They should all list as being open Then hold down each endstop in turn and resend M119, the endstop your holding down should change to triggeredby Dust - Reprappers
That is the basic idea, and yes it doesn’t work 9/10 due to other silly things (well for me anyways!) You also have to set the E to where it was... which is quite tricky to do as most slicers keep resetting the E position to 0 threw out the print. And bring the temperatures back to where they should be. You also have to reset your Z position without re homing (as homing would probably hit yourby Dust - General Mendel Topics
Make sure you have micro stepping jumpers installed (under the pololus) Make sure you are supplying 12v to the 12v 5amp plugs (not 5v, which seems to be a common issue) You do have pololu modules installed? Around the correct way?by Dust - Reprappers
Only if you have a Sanguinololou, and you also need a resistor to limit the current (1K ish), and the led has to be around the correct way. This shows the correct way around (on a standard ardunio) You just need to identify which is ground and which in a IO line on the pololu module Most boot loaders flash this IO line, but its not guaranteed. The only way to be sure you have a boot loby Dust - Sanguino(lolu)
Just cut D1 out of the ramps (one end is enough), then the mega is powered by USB only. GNDS are already joinedby Dust - RAMPS Electronics
The SAV_MkI has one advantage over the arduino, high speed virtual uarts (baud rates get ignored) This also means that you can't just drop on a replacement usb-serial converter If you take a look at You can see there are only 4 used lines on the usb... The outer two are power +5v and gnd, you can tap into the end of f2 for power and gnd are all over the place For the two data lines theby Dust - Prusa i3 and variants
depend on how high that is vs length of z travel, 2 will get squahed as Z rises.by Dust - General Mendel Topics
You have damaged the voltage regulator on the mega If you power the mega from a usb cable it doesn’t use the voltage regulator If you power the mega from the DC jack or the vin pin it goes via the voltage regular , the ramps applies 12v via D1 to the mega vin pin. Plug power into the mega dc jack (7-12V) and check that the 5v pins have 5vby Dust - RAMPS Electronics
Temp errors like that are normally hot end related, does that one read room temp?by Dust - General
Either you Z steps/mm are wrong (or Z just isn’t moving correctly) or your E steps/mm are wrong or you filament width is wrong.. Most likely the latter... image is to small to tell. Ie your extruding to much for some reason, re check your filament diameter (actually measure it, 1.75mm or 3mm is never 1.75mm or 3mm) Then re calibrate your extruder steps/mmby Dust - General
Fuses would generally stop all motors from working.... You have probably damaged the stepper drivers Luckily your board is modular, they can be replaced. First check this is the case While everything is off, swop the driver from X and Y positions, re test, does X stop working and Y start working? if so You have identified one dead driver.. repeat with Z drivers If the fault doesn’t move youby Dust - Controllers
Agreed... You can run without endstop, and set you position manual with g92 command But its a pain in the butt!!! you have to set this manually every time your turn on the printer as it thinks it as 0 when powered on, till its told otherwise via homeing switches. (X and Y aren’t so bad, it Z that’s the issue) And yes it sounds like your power supply is crap, get a better one.by Dust - General
Sadly people get taken in by fancy LED's and buy switch based endstops with leds, these use all 3 pins. Signal, Ground (marked as -ve) and +5v If you plug them in the correct way around, they work fine. If you plug them in backwards, you short +5v to ground via the closed switch and smoke the voltage regulator. Sadly there is no key on this connector... so people plug them in any way they want.by Dust - General
drv8825 have different micostepping, you should set it to 1/16th micro stepping using the following table Jumper off is LOW, Jumper on is HIGH For vref seeby Dust - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
no, I’ve never seen that board before. They have changed it without document it Where did you get this board? got a url? maybe there is some documentation there.by Dust - Sanguino(lolu)
Most flexible filament do not work well in a bowden setup.by Dust - General Mendel Topics
The dimensions will always be out... as the paths have allowed for the thickness of the extrusionby Dust - General
normally it would be like If your lucky they have just move the 4 pins over so the last 6 pins are what you need.. Your going to have to trace the board or find the manufacturers documentation I think what they have done is added the glcd converter on boardby Dust - Sanguino(lolu)