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Yes I just look at the photos in the description and it is a mighty board, be careful with what you replace, it is 24 volts not the usual 12.
by
ggherbaz
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Reprappers
On picture 8/11 from right to left you have: fan, heatsink, black plastic cube on top of hotend mount, stepper motor. That black plastic piece is your extruder, it doesn't have an idler tensioner so the idler is fix inside the plastic box (old makerbot extruder) the filament will get stuck if not perfect 1.75mm. Unless they supply you with something different than what is shown on the picture.
I
by
ggherbaz
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Reprappers
Go to any STL storage page and pick whichever Prusa I3 files you like the most, print them and replace the parts that came with your printer, on the board and thermistors go to Aliexpress and get a ramps/Mega some A4988's and some known thermistors, the rest just replace as needed, Prusa frames you can get the cheap plywood frame for about 20 dollars or the aluminum ones from 60.
One thing you n
by
ggherbaz
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Reprappers
Thanks dentist.
I don't like tapes as they rip easily and I don't want to damage my tooling plate, I use a 110 v heating pad and have enough power to heat up my plate and glass in short time. I haven't test for heat distribution but certainly I haven't have any print failures with this setting in over a year, I also have an enclosed chamber that helps a lot too.
by
ggherbaz
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Printing
Some use kapton tape, others use painters tape, but I have never used them I use elmers glue sticks either purple or the Xtreme. With ABS I either wait till cools down and pops by itself or do a cold bath, with PLA I wait till cool and pray the part.
I also use glass over aluminum plate and as you I hold the glass with clamps.
by
ggherbaz
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Printing
Look at "The digital dentist" printer and see how he set his print bed.
He used 3 supports instead of 4 for the bed allowing for thermal expansion of the aluminum plate without much warping or bowing of the bed.
by
ggherbaz
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Printing
I would say all of the above, you have also some mechanical problems too.
But first you need to give some more info:
Type of filament
Temperatures
Printing speed
Nozzle size
Slicer settings
Extruder type (direct or bowden)
Your first layer height is to big, looks like you are over extruding and way too hot for either the filament, the speed or the size of the part.
by
ggherbaz
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Printing
Best advise that I can give you is to buy a dial gauge, print an adapter and set it up on your printer X carriage, bring it down and measure your whole bed in X and Y axis, get them close to zero as possible and then heat your bed to printing temperature and run it again, if your bed is bowing as it heats up the ABL won't fix that and you will see those issues until you fix it with either a 3 poi
by
ggherbaz
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Printing
I use 22 mm for 608zz bearings.
3.2 for M3, 4.2 for M4 if I wanted a tight fit, if smooth 3.4 and 4.4 respectively.
by
ggherbaz
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Printing
An arduino due and RADDS board is a cheaper way to get into 32 bit controllers, smoothieboard is also another option and like JamesK mentioned the duet, then after if and only if you are good with programming a Beagle bone black with a 3d printer cape, this last one can actually become the true high end of the controllers once firmware development pass the birth stage.
by
ggherbaz
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General
If you can't find any info on Google for the ballast bypass and any other sensor bypass, the only option as I did is to follow the wires and traces, read voltages and figure out by yourself how to mod it (Mitsubishi xd250u).
For light source I'm going for a 405nm led, I purchased few different wattage for testing from 9w, 20w and crazy 100w, but as long as your light source have good amount of u
by
ggherbaz
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Polymer Working Group
Well they are very cheap right? That only means poor quality. That said it easy to fix using an SSR dc to dc. That way your mosfet only activate the relay and don't need to handle the current from the bed.
You need to check the wiring and amperage pulled by the bed, thin wires, poor soldering and the cheap connectors used by the ramps board are usually the mayor factors for dead mosfets.
by
ggherbaz
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Reprappers
Are you trying to print with flexible filament?
Those plastic extruders aren't reliable at all, I will recommend you to get some aluminum ones.
if you are trying to print flexible filament you need an extruder that will support the filament after they pass the gear. For your printer the Flexion might be a good fit?
by
ggherbaz
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Printing
For the test uncheck:
Wipe, coast, perform retraction during wipe, wipe only on the outer most perimeters and relative extrusion distance.
After implement each one individually and tune them up.
One thing to note: if for some reason S3D doesn't want to take your printer Z offset from sensor, put it on the g code tab. (It does it to me once in a while)
by
ggherbaz
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Printing
Ok, few things to try:
Lower retraction to 1~1.5
Increase retraction speed to 40 mm/s
Bring first layer height to 100% or under
First layer extrusion width 100%
Infill extrusion width 100%
XY movements 60 mm/s
Outline and solid infill underspeed 80%
by
ggherbaz
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Printing
S3D have several settings that you need to set right, isn't as simple as you might think and it take some experimentation to get perfect prints.
If you can post the screen shots of your process so I can check it including g code start.
by
ggherbaz
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Printing
Block 2 channels with 2mm drill bits or filament, and run the wire from nozzle side (heat the wire), it might force the obstruction to move to the open channel or to get glued to one of the filaments?
by
ggherbaz
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Reprappers
Use a torch and piano wire, some metal guitar wire might work depending on nozzle size.
by
ggherbaz
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Reprappers
Usually nozzles have about 5 to 6 mm threaded section, heater blocks are usually 12 mm tall which allows for a 6 and 6 mm connection. You might have a 10mm block and maybe a volcano style nozzle?
You can get a thicker block or as you mention a volcano block on Aliexpress for few bucks.
by
ggherbaz
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Printing
From that picture, you have the nozzle too far out, that will make things worse, you need to screw in the nozzle all the way in and I would recommend you to cover the heater block with fiberglass or ceramic fiber.
SS nozzles will take longer to heat up, but once heated will be more stable than the brass ones, don't raise the temperature but rather let it heat a little longer before start printin
by
ggherbaz
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Printing
Looks like your hotend is losing heat or you are trying to print faster than what the hotend can pomp out.
by
ggherbaz
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Printing
Just set one or two line skirt few mm apart from the part in the slicer, once printer the code generated will retract before it moves to the actual part, any mess will stay away from the part.
by
ggherbaz
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Printing
Do you have EEPROM enabled? If so you need to save the changes with M500 otherwise it will keep using whatever is saved in the memory.
by
ggherbaz
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Reprappers
For $160 it's hard not to get one, I will pull the trigger after Christmas since they have been raising the price in the last two weeks.
I'm planning on change the board once I test it and consume the 2 rolls that comes with.
The main thing to work on is converting the non heated bed to a heated one, then I will be changing stuff as it wears off.
by
ggherbaz
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General
Have anyone tried to do the same with a cube 3d 3rd. Generation? They are cheap on eBay and thinking on dive with one.
For what I can see it uses linear rail and looks solid, but don't know what they use for Z axis sensor?
by
ggherbaz
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General
The only layer you need to print really slowly is the first one, that's why usually the slicer have a setting specifically for first layer speed. If too fast the print will not adhere well to the bed and filament will come out really thin.
Ok now since it looks like it's getting a little better but still need some tweak, the next step is getting more material extruded since it looks like it mig
by
ggherbaz
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Printing
Yes you can buy all the things needed for auto bed leveling and set it in your printer, but I asked because if you have it set and your Z offset was wrong it will create those artifacts.
by
ggherbaz
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Printing
The extrusion width is a setting in the slicer used to specify the width of the extruded filament, it can be set manually or automatically, for a 0.4 nozzle the auto mode will set it at 0.48, in manual you can set it to any value that the nozzle can effectively extrude although it is recommended to set it higher than the nozzle size.
For a nozzle size of 0.4 the maximum layer height should not
by
ggherbaz
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Printing
Ok, need some more info:
Nozzle size
Layer height
Extrusion width
Extrusion multiplier
While printing, does the extruder clicks, misses steps, or chew up the filament?
Are you printing from computer or SD card? Have you tried both with same results?
While printing your hotend temperature fluctuates a lot or is quite stable?
Are you using auto bed leveling?
by
ggherbaz
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Printing
Ok, lets move to the next steps:
What material are you using, what temperatures and what speed?
Are you using an old filament, a new one, did you switched supplier?
The problem began while using the same material or as you switched to a different material/supplier?
Have you test different speeds and temperatures and have the same result?
Have you slice the part again or with another slicer s
by
ggherbaz
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Printing