"I'd say purple glue stick on glass. You can pop it in the freezer when you're done and the part will pop free pretty easily." I don't remember the last time I used blue tape or kapton tape :-D, a good leveled bed with purple glue it all i use.. Let it cool down a bit and to the fridge for few minutes, that all it's needed. Even for larger parts.by ggherbaz - General
Check the following 3 things : 1.- endstop switch (it might be wrongly wired and stuck triggered) 2.- cold solder, if you have a solder iron reheat all the pins. 3.- without the driver, check for voltage supply to the pins, look on the ramps diagram for them and verify correct voltage..by ggherbaz - Reprappers
Sorry for late response, most likely the tools would be expensive, that's why I'm having the manufacturer make it all for me. It will take about 2 - 3 weeks to arrive, but will upload pictures when I get them.by ggherbaz - General
Here you can see samples of machined quartz and fused silica tubes :www.indquartz.comby ggherbaz - General
On another note, it's friction coefficient is better than stainless steel, and in theory wouldn't suffer the problems that ss have with PLA. Will see if that is true.by ggherbaz - General
You are right, it will be used instead of the ss throat. Quartz is better insulator than stainless steel, allowing you to see what it's happening inside, and it is alot more structurally sound than Peek. Quartz it's also machinable with diamond tip tools and it is not expensive to get it. 2 pieces already tapered for $ 12.00 each. Maximum operational temperature 1100 degrees and do not suffer frby ggherbaz - General
Good morning everyone, I'm about to experiment with a hotend design that utilizes a quartz tube as insulator. Have anyone had already experimented with this material before ? If not, i will post results as I start experimentation. Regards, Gerardoby ggherbaz - General
Poor infill will also accelerate the breakage of a printed part. Once you replace the part, crack open the old one and check infill quantity I can bet will not pass 10%.by ggherbaz - General
If you are planning to print only small parts I will recommend go for the top projector since the amount of resin will not be a great factor, but if you planning for bigger parts then go for the bottom one.by ggherbaz - General
The difference is in the amount of resin needed, bottom projector requires less resin, but uses complicated and some time expensive translucent containers, top projectors are simpler to make but requires a lot more resin in the container since the built plate moves down into the container. It a matter of cost vs simplicity.by ggherbaz - General
Use valve grinding compound, wet a piece of cloth with it and rubbed the part.by ggherbaz - Printing
There is not much to do regarding this issue but to play with the orientation of your parts in the plate, the separation between them and the printing speed and retraction . Keep them close, try to print parts of closed to same hight and increase your retraction settings.by ggherbaz - Printing
Go to the machine control panel and be sure to select the right tool, I have had the same issue with a different printer and that solved my problems. Most likely your fff profile conflict with the actual tool used on the g-code generated.by ggherbaz - Printing
Simplify3d worth every penny, I used all the time just because I can select were I want support. You can use meshmixer from autodesk if you don't want to expend the money, but it isn't as easy as simplify3d.by ggherbaz - General
Check your firmware for the type of endstops you set (maximum or minimum) also need to check if you are allowing for axis to move beyond endstops. It looks like you mixed your stepper direction with the type of endstopsby ggherbaz - Reprappers
Pronterface will allow movement pass your endstops , your problem is in marlin, you need to switch you endstops type. Verify if they are normally open or normally close and adjust them in marlin firmware.by ggherbaz - Reprappers
One last thing, what size nozzle are you using? I have found that small size nozzles don't like fast speeds. So the smaller the nozzle the lower speed you need to use to get good results. For those types of parts I use 0.5 size and print at 50 mm per second, trying to go faster than that will reduce the quality of the print.by ggherbaz - Printing
Do you have a laser point thermometer? Point it at your heater block and check your real temperature, you might think you're extruding at one temperature but reality can be something else. I usually extruder PLA at 225 because of that.by ggherbaz - Printing
Hello, For what I can see from the picture, you most likely need to do 2 things: reduce your speed a little and increase the top solid shells. The faster you wanna print, the hotter you need to go and the extrusion needs to be adjusted to supply the demands. Regards.by ggherbaz - Printing
Hello, I just finished my own design printer, I'm in Woodstockby ggherbaz - Atlanta, Georgia RepRap User Group