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3D printer Y axis carriage plate replacement blueprint for standard MK3 aluminium hotbed.
The reason I had to switch the carriage plate is that I have built an enclosure and due to high temperatures inside the enclosure, the original acrylic plate deformed and became unusable.
Drawn in CAD app, ready for CNC machine. Download files from links in the video and have the plate laser-cut in a shop
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79dusan
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Object repositories
had similar issues. dismantle endstop wires from motor wires if you have them in a bundle. cross-talk is the issue
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79dusan
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General
Hi all,
I am getting very good results with 3D Factories ABS PrintPlus material. Now, questions:
1. I have a hard time to buy 1kg reels (white or natural) of this material, any reason for such outage?
2. Some shops offer 3D Factories branded material, some offer "OEM ABS PrintPlus material" and they say it is manufactured by 3D Factories. Any reason to call it differently? Is it the same mater
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79dusan
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General
I have an MK3 heatbed and it reaches 110*C and even beyond. Of course it takes time, but it does. Put your printer in a corner to avoid drafts or make an enclosure. My MK3 heatbed came with an insulated bottom, its some sort of a foam, like "EVA foam". I am printing ABS with 100*C on a heatbed and its fine, I even plan to lower it to 90*C.
ABS sticking/not sticking. You can find countless forums
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79dusan
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Reprappers
Hey guys,
I got some time to go back to the 3d printer and I totally solved all my problems!!! TL;DR Never underestimate endstop-motor wires cross talk!!!!!! Do not bundle them together.
Thanks for everybodys´ help.
First, I thought I could try to unbundle the z endstop wire from z motors wires wrap to see IF AND ONLY the cross talk couldn´t be an issue. All of the sudden, my z axis homes perf
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79dusan
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Reprappers
I wanted to get the thing running today, adjusting things from suggestions. Upon turning the printer on - silence. Power supply is busted and its got white goo leaked all over the insides its definitely dead. I wrote to vendor asking for replacement, although I do not expect much support from their side (Or they will indeed send it but at a full price)
Any ideas where to get a replacement power
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79dusan
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Reprappers
Skus downgrade Arduino IDE. Mne to robilo tiez pri tej verzii, potom som presiel na 1.0.2 a zakazal som upgrade. Ta 1.0.2 funguje vyborne.
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79dusan
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RepRap Usergroup - Slovakia
Quotegforce1
Are you printing from sd?
Turn the poti on the stepper (x-axis) a little bit clockwise.
Have you still got the problem with homing the z-axis? If So set the retract while homing to 5 mm instead of 2 mm
in CONFIGURATION_ADV_H
//homing hits the endstop, then retracts by this distance, before it tries to slowly bump again:
#define X_HOME_RETRACT_MM 5
#define Y_HOME_RETRACT_MM 5
#defin
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79dusan
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Reprappers
I lowered the setting to 30mm/sec and it helped just a bit. Instead of staircase, I get a cube in 2-3 pieces shifted. Should I lower it further? I tried other slicer (CuraEngine) but it does the same thing.
I have spotted though, that before the printer shifts to new erroneous coordinates during print, it pauses and thinks for a split of a second and THEN shifts over to the wrong coordinates. Co
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79dusan
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Reprappers
Quotegforce1
I have watched your video and i think the speed for non printing moves is to high.
What are your settings in your slicer? Set them at app. 30 mm/ sec if it works you can try raising them step by step.
That is set to 130 mm/sec!!!
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79dusan
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Reprappers
Quotegforce1
Slow down your accellaration in the firmware.
which of these?
#define MAX_ACCELERATION_UNITS_PER_SQ_SECOND_X 1000
#define MAX_ACCELERATION_UNITS_PER_SQ_SECOND_Y 1000
#define MAX_TRAVEL_ACCELERATION_UNITS_PER_SQ_SECOND_X 1000
#define MAX_TRAVEL_ACCELERATION_UNITS_PER_SQ_SECOND_Y 1000
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79dusan
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Reprappers
Quotegforce1
Slow down your accellaration in the firmware.
will try that
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79dusan
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Reprappers
So I was impatient and got hold of 2 photograph frames, removed the glass and put it onto printer bed. Set a z offset to 1.6 and heated to 110 (it went up sloooow), but in the end it has reached 109,6 which my printer evaluated as 110 and begun printing a 1x1cm test cube. Extruder at 240
Applying a bit of UHU glue and it sticks just great, thus this is gonna be my way. BUT...
In the middle of p
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79dusan
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Reprappers
There are videos where people print over bare aluminium bed and it seems to work for them.
I tried with bed at 110 and extruder at 235 degrees, but no luck. I found out applying UHU glue stick to aluminium creates a thin layer of very slick area, nothing is able to stick to that, so I am getting glass to cover my alu bed.
With a rental XYZ printer, UHU glue on heated glass bed works like a charm
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79dusan
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Reprappers
Hi all,
I made a significant progress over the last weekend. Leveling the x axis by adjusting z motors with digital caliper has helped greatly as far as the entire bed leveling process goes. I also leveled the bed in a way that paper test was perfect in all 4 corners.
Next thing I need to do is to get even more drag on the paper (either by raising the bed or by setting a z offset - which is by f
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79dusan
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Reprappers
@orictosh
1. I will level the bed by your instructions and reconfigure z home.
2. I will try to level the x axis with a digital caliper I just bought. I did "level" it indeed when building it, but using a simple construction ruler with bubble water level. Seeing the tolerance required, I realize the construction ruler is not quite appropriate for this.
3. I have printed the leveling tool (on a re
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79dusan
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Reprappers
So, here is how it went.
I lowered the endstop until z axis was perfect with the paper test.
Then I have pressed z-home in Repetier Host 12x times to check on consistency. No luck :-/
12x total
4x wrong
8x correct
- wrong leveling among correct ones, no pattern whatsoever.
Attached a video here
Evil machine, living its own life.
It seems that sometimes it enters this panic mode when it stops i
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79dusan
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Reprappers
yes, if I manually activate the switch, it does show triggered state.
I will try to do as you say and come back with feedback. Thanks for your comment regarding cross-talk.
BTW, do you think it makes sense to remove the small metal lever from the endstop? It was instructed so in build videos. I understand that it could eliminate some of the "extra" axis travel caused by the lever material bendi
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79dusan
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Reprappers
Quoteorictosh
An update after watching your videos
when the nozzle is at the home position, grab upon paper 0.2mm
the lever of the z end stop switch (shown in the above link) should be just touching the printed part and show HIGH when triggered when printer is sent a M119
much the same as the x axis end stop
- I did that a couple of times already, but no luck. It always homes differently.
If
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79dusan
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Reprappers
@bme My endstops are mechanical switches, per instructions wired to "C" (closed) and "NC" (normally closed) pins.
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79dusan
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Reprappers
I got an error while uploading
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79dusan
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Reprappers
I got an error while uploading
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79dusan
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Reprappers
it says z_min:L
which is correct, I think
when it is triggered it says z_min:H
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79dusan
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Reprappers
PLEASE HELP! I am desperate with this issue.
Despite being a total newbie, I have bought HE3D Xi3 kit and after a couple of hickups, I managed to complete it. Instructions are dreadful, but that´s another story. Their support is just as bad, or even worse.
My main problem is that I cannot get the printer to home z axis correctly and consistently. Every time I tell the z axis to home, I get a di
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79dusan
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Reprappers