Matt, this isn't about the structure of thingiverse. It's a fantastic website that I would like to use. I used it in the past and would use it in the future. Right now I just can't until they change that last line in 3.2 to something acceptable. If richrap, Johann and nophead are cool with people taking their designs and commercializing them without attribution I cannot argue with that. Iby akhlut - General
Did you read any of what I wrote? I know that reading is hard, but the concepts expressed in sentences are sometimes worthwhile. Actually, you kinda did say it was OK to steal. Quote"Who cares if they own it?" Maybe the creator of the content cares. I'm not saying that objects that you upload won't be taken and used by others - of course they will. That is the point of sharing them. Wholby akhlut - General
I was just trying to clarify as to why someone might not want to use thingiverse. I didn't say anything about fair use by individuals of uploaded content. That's pretty much the point, isn't it? So that you can share things with others so that they can use them and change/improve them? But attribution is pretty important in such a transaction, isn't it? It's the least someone can do for frby akhlut - General
Quotetjb1 I'm guessing he/she is one of the "DEATH TO THINGIVERSE" crowd that all went nuts when they claimed to change the TOS and now are sticking it to the man (Makerbot/Stratasys) by not using it. All I can say is, good luck with that. None of the other repositories have any amount of following and as you'll see, everyone here recommends a different one. Pretty much. They never fully exby akhlut - General
Don't use thingiverse. youmagine.comby akhlut - General
Yeah, it'll be an 11 hour drive for me, and I HATE driving.by akhlut - General
Look for ULTEM PEI sheets as well.by akhlut - CoreXY Machines
Two weeks to go... I've got to convince the wife to ditch World Maker Faire this year, but I'm pretty sure I can make it happen. Who's going?by akhlut - General
Yup - the nuts in the x-ends come out, and the isolators do all the work pushing the axis up and down. I'd just keep the cube for consistency.by akhlut - Reprappers
Check this video out. And these threads:by akhlut - Reprappers
If you do decide to go to M8, choose M8 fine pitch (1mm/turn) rather than the standard (1.25mm/turn). Those anti-wobble bits could work, but I have concerns about their actual efficacy. With those you're trying to decouple the X and Z axes. Unfortunately, you have the threaded rod that can't seen to help but touch the X-end. Maybe something like these , coupled with those M8-sized X-ends miby akhlut - Reprappers
How well-calibrated is your extruder?by akhlut - Reprappers
That high-pitched whine is the stepper motors being over-driven. Lower your Z-axis motion rates to about 1/10th of what they were.by akhlut - Reprappers
Well, it's not that it would cause inaccuracy, its that the additional resolution is meaningless. Think about an old truck with manual steering - with one of those steering wheels that you can turn through 90 degrees and it has no impact on the direction of the truck. A friend of mine had an old Bronco that you could do this with (fun times). You can turn the wheel 90 degrees in a single motioby akhlut - Reprappers
Marlin currently supports dual-x. I don't know if any ARM firmwares do yet.by akhlut - General
I want to do the same thing, so I rolled my own electronics. It's going out to fab soon.by akhlut - General
Are your z-axis motors disabled when not in use? // Disables axis when it's not being used. #define DISABLE_X false #define DISABLE_Y false #define DISABLE_Z false #define DISABLE_E false // For all extruders What are your z steps/mm? Assuming M5 with 200 step motors and 16x micro-stepping, should be 4000 steps/mm. For a layer height of 0.2 that's 800 micro steps. As an experiment, you shoby akhlut - Reprappers
How certain are you that your screws are 2mm pitch?by akhlut - General
Quotejbernardis I'm looking at this idea as a nice enhancement to my shapeoko rather than to my 3d printers. The LCD/encoder on my printers gives me somewhat clumsy control over local movement, etc, so the need is less there. xpix has been working on this exact issue over on the shapeoko forums.by akhlut - General
The cap under the driver doesn't look happy. Did it touch the bottom of the driver?by akhlut - General
@ Bobc, you're right on the money. Keystone 3568. And I'm re-visiting the diodes. Eliminating them actually and moving to something else, maybe a MOSFET for reverse polarity protection. @Cefiar, thanks for the pointers! Maybe I'm a curmudgeon, but I like the USB-B connector. I'm kinda leery of those mini and micro connectors. And since I've got the space for it I might as well use it.by akhlut - Controllers
Thanks! Yeah. I've followed Roy Cortes and Panucatt for a while now. He makes these drivers that have the fault, decay and vref pins broken out on the board. Might as well use them. I saw that post. I've done the exact same thing. I finally got wise and ordered a ceramic slotted screwdriver from amazon. For the price of a stepper driver it's a no-brainer. But if you can set the vrefby akhlut - Controllers
So I like this x-axis design :. The dual-X carriage idea is pretty nifty. Only problem is that I would need to break out some pins and solder up a drive board for the second X-axis. But with access to cheap PCB's from Hongkong I could make my own board, which would be much more satisfying. I could have just bought a RUMBA, but where is the fun in that? So I whipped this up to give me a seconby akhlut - Controllers
Yeah. I dont bother with microstepping on z because there is no point. As far as calibrating z that is exactly what im advocating - dont measure, just plug the ouput drom the equation pitch/(stepper resolution×microstep rate).by akhlut - General
It's Neri Oxman, with the Mediated Matter group at the MIT Media Lab.by akhlut - General
Like OP, I too had this issue. I thought it was a bent leadscrew as well, so I replaced them. When that didn't work I added x-z decouplers. This helped eliminate z-wobble. Beefing up my Z-axis to 10mm rods helped as well. But I was still getting banding. Then, like OP I figured 'better screws'. So I went and ordered 1/4"-16 ACME screws from McMaster. Installed them and still the banding.by akhlut - General
+1 for mcmaster. Best source in the US. That and it can get a little addictive shopping there...by akhlut - General
ACME rod is not good. If you want problems use ACME. M6 or 1mm pitch M8 is all you need. If you really want to use a high quality screw on z get a 10mm trapezoidal screw with a 2mm pitch and use a decoupler to isolate the screw from the x-end. You do not want the screw to touch the x-end, ever. You want to decouple the x and z axes so that any unwanted motion in z isnt transmitted to theby akhlut - General