Hi Jai, You will really need to explore this entire website. Really. I am completing a large format delta. - I recommend getting 32 bit electronics if you can - like a Smoothyboard. See here and here. - Info on steppers here. Almost all repraps use Nema 17s. I used much higher torque, double precision Nema 23 steppers from here for the three towers and the direct drive extruder. I recommenby Paul Wanamaker - Delta Machines
Hi Hans-liu, This sounds like something I have seen. Please check the following: - Open Cura - Click the plugins tab - Are there any plugins showing below under "Enabled Plugins"? The one to look for below is "Tweak at Z". If this is down there (and so it's enabled), even if nothing is filled in, then it can mess with your g-code at a certain height. For me it turned the extruder off! If it'sby Paul Wanamaker - Reprappers
Gabriel, Perhaps someone here that has your model printer can compare the configuration.h. I doubt that's it since your printer was working, and now not, with no firmware or hardware change. Good idea to try new drivers. While you're waiting for them, since you've tried lower current, and now it's failing in 2 directions, try higher current (clockwise a bit).by Paul Wanamaker - Reprappers
3DRapidClone, Yes. I do have a string of 4 25w bulbs behind one tower that provides a bit of heat. Sometimes I let a bit of extra heat out! jaguarking11, I've been planning on adding much more pictures, just been working on the printer a lot. The heated bed is made out of a piece of 5/16" cast aluminum tooling plate - very flat and will not warp. I got it as a remnant fortunately. I added aby Paul Wanamaker - Delta Machines
James, If you are not sure if the pinouts are correct: With the power off and wires disconnected - use an ohm meter to check which pin on the driver board goes to the output connector. There is a discussion of dual Y motor wiring here. Can you put the 2nd motor on another driver? Frankly I'm surprised repraps are run this way (2 on 1 driver). Advice from CNCzone: 1. Running two steppers offby Paul Wanamaker - Reprappers
Hi People! Lots of great input here. Good luck with the build. I am finishing a large format printer and I have a few thoughts about mariechuria's comment. Heating the chamber is no problem, the heated bed will do that all by itself nicely. You will of course want to have the electronics and motors outside the chamber if possible. A delta printer makes that a bit easier. Power consumption iby Paul Wanamaker - Reprappers
Ulkan, I've used Autocrete- Hi-Temp Ceramic Adhesive when building my hot-end. It worked very well. I really like the tri-color hot-end. Great Job! I am planning one for Raptosaur, and water cooling may work best.by Paul Wanamaker - General
Thanks! I was thinking about the fumes, and I like your exhaust fan idea (something I've planned also). Having an enclosed chamber does contain some of the fumes, but you have to open the door sometime! The exhaust fan won't need to blow much, just lower the pressure inside the chamber a bit, and get the fumes outside. BTW, the insulation I used was 1/2" R-matte Plus 3 from Home Depot. It canby Paul Wanamaker - Delta Machines
Gabriel, The symptom you are describing is exactly what happens when a stepper driver does a thermal shutdown. That axis misses a bunch of steps. One of mine (extruder) was doing that this morning for instance. It was sitting still (preheating) and I heard a clunk sound about every 15 seconds. I pulled on the filament and waited a few seconds, and when it happened again I could move the moby Paul Wanamaker - Reprappers
Gabriel, I recommend getting an LCD with an SD card slot. You will have much more reliable printing, and you computer does not have to be dedicated. Note that it would be pure luck if your firmware ran your printer well as-is. The person who posted up the firmware very likely had a different setup. For all major firmware flavors you can adjust the acceleration settings in the Configuration.hby Paul Wanamaker - Reprappers
Verystrong, I'm not familiar with that build of Marlin, but... It is very common for the configuration.h to be incorrect for your hardware, who knows what hardware the person had that uploaded it? So, probably something wrong in configuration.h, perhaps the motherboard setting is incorrect? Can you compare it to the old version you had? Or try another firmware like Repetier. -Paulby Paul Wanamaker - General
Hi there Gabriel That's a lot of steps. I think it's one of the following: 1 - Like you mentioned (and you have a fan now) a stepper driver may be doing a thermal reset. Less likely now that you have a fan on it. Make it a strong fan. When I had this problem it was about a second reset on one driver. 2 - The print head may be hitting. You didn't mention what kind of slicer you use, but in Slby Paul Wanamaker - Reprappers
Chris, Did you get it running? I had a similar error related to "prog_char" not being defined. If that is your error, then add the following at the top of ui.cpp: #define prog_char char For some of the settings: #define DELTA_ALPHA_A 210 #define DELTA_ALPHA_B 330 #define DELTA_ALPHA_C 90 These are the angle in degrees to each tower. For my printer (Raptosaur) its like this: Tower A is the toby Paul Wanamaker - Delta Machines
Hi Bruno, I've been finishing up my large format delta that was designed with a heated chamber. See here. I'm finishing up the electronics for bed probing at the moment. When you enclose the printer the heated bed may well provide enough heat, especially if you use insulation, so you probably won't need a heater. The solution I used for cooling the hot end was using a blower fan mounted outsiby Paul Wanamaker - Delta Machines
Shadowphile, Chrome plating is a pro job only. The residues are highly toxic. Note that there are several kinds of stainless. 303 stainless is better for machining, but not easy to find in the tube dimensions I wanted. It has slightly higher thermal conductivity however. 304 is considered nearly un-machinable (although very common) - it is difficult to get a smooth finish, but with careful reby Paul Wanamaker - Developers
Dexterousfolder, It sounds like you need to do a PID auto tuning. Then it won't overshoot like that. This feature is built into Repetier and Marlin, perhaps other firmware. After doing this feature, the results are reported, and you update the firmware with the new values. See This Regards, Paulby Paul Wanamaker - Reprappers
James, My 8825's also squeal. It's caused by the chopper circuit built into the drivers, which controls the current. I saw the following on Github about this by Ssendog, but I have not tested it yet. It could also be caused by improper component values as Nophead said there. I just mounted a DRV8825 driver onto my RAMPS board and I found no problems with my extruder. I have a homemade 3D prby Paul Wanamaker - Reprappers
"shaking with no net rotation" That's the place to start. Turn the power off first. Check the microstep jumpers, put them all on for 16 microsteps. If the motors are not wired correctly then all bets are off. Perhaps the connectors are wired incorrectly. Use an ohm meter and test the wires at the connector (with power off and the connector disconnected.) The first two should be a pair, andby Paul Wanamaker - Reprappers
Good video. What happens if only the 2nd motor is plugged in?by Paul Wanamaker - Reprappers
Like Andrew said, you need the microstepping jumpers on. The usual settings are 8 or 16 microsteps. This also figures into your steps per MM calculation. This may help: Triffid Hunters Calibration Guide FYI: Some drivers will do 32 microsteps, but you can run into problems with the motors stuttering when the microcontroller maxes out it's processing power trying to put out that many steps/sby Paul Wanamaker - Reprappers
mgooch, Many times the defaults in firmware are not correct or even helpful, since there are so many variants of printer. I found that with mine. It may help to have some more info: Which firmware are you running, what version? Which host? (Repetier, Pronterface, Etc?) Try setting your speeds and acceleration down by 80% just to make sure it will move and there is no overspeed/acceleration isby Paul Wanamaker - Reprappers
cpi11, I understand your frustration. You indicate it gets to line 25 and it stalls. Can you give more details? Is the printer entirely freezing, or is it moving and just no filament coming out? Are you using Pronterface, Repetier Host, other host, or printing from SD? Which firmware are you using?by Paul Wanamaker - Reprappers
There is a new thermal camera from a company called Seek Thermal. My brother ordered one that connects to his Iphone. It's supposed to be higher resolution that a low end flir, but only about $200. However his camera is a bit late arriving.by Paul Wanamaker - General
This was explained to me by a printer manufacturer a few weeks ago. The laser comes up through the glass and sets the thin layer of resin that is right there on the glass. It is necessary to move the printed object up and down to cool that layer or the print will stick to the glass.by Paul Wanamaker - General
Paarthurnax, Stepper drivers can get very hot and still run, however you should put a fan on them. If they get too hot they will cut out (thermal protection) BTW, the pot on the driver will adjust the current, not the voltage. Generally turning them counter clockwise will reduce the current. You should start with that. It will only reduce the amount of torque the motors put out. Make sure youby Paul Wanamaker - Reprappers
James, In addition to your electronics info, please provide the feed rates and acceleration you are using (you can attach your configuration.h) What do the steppers sound like when they are operating? Do they make high squealy sounds and sit there?by Paul Wanamaker - Reprappers
Icecats, That squealing sound and jerky inconsistent movements is one symptom of too high of a step rate. Its not a current issue. This could have several causes: Double check the board's documentation on the microstepping jumper settings, check the web to make sure it's correct. Check the microstepping your drivers are jumpered to. Check your steps per mm in firmware. Check your feed rate. Seby Paul Wanamaker - Controllers
I am finishing my large format Delta printer: Raptosaur. Some features: - Print area: 14" (355 mm) diameter (or 17" (431 mm) wide) by 24" (609 mm) tall. - Temperature controlled build chamber to allow building big without shrinkage problems - Double pane Lexan window - Carbon fiber rods - Magnetic ball joints - High temperature neodymium magnets in the carbon fiber rods - Heated build plate maby Paul Wanamaker - Reprappers
SethEden: I hope you are successful. The heart of the design will be the print head - why not just make that first (since you are just going to modify an existing hot-end) and see if the concept works?by Paul Wanamaker - Developers
Hi myk68, Disclaimer: I'm not an expert on this, but I've read about it. It sounds like its a time related thermal failure - sound like the cold end is getting hot, or the thermal break is, so the filament may be getting soft. Try adding a small fan blowing on the thermal break, or on the stepper. The other thing I've read is that if you have a teflon sleeve in the hot end it may have deformed.by Paul Wanamaker - General