This page has some information on how the planner works that helped me understand accelerations. http://www.extrudable.me/2013/04/02/the-myth-of-z-speed/by blt3dp - Printing
You're using RAMPS 1.4? Make sure you have the jumpers for microstepping installed under the stepper drivers. Also make sure you have your motors wired up correctly. Check here Basically the 2 wires for one coil should be next to each other in your connector as well as the 2 wires for the other coil should be next to each other. For the endstops, at the RAMPS end put them on the X,Y,Z-min pinsby blt3dp - CoreXY Machines
If you did it right. The compound pulley would multiply the detent torque and could support the bed unpowered. For example. The Tripple Length Nema 17 located here has a detent torque of 3.5oz at 1 inch away from the center of the motor shaft If you setup a compound pulley similar to the Double Tackle shown here, that would quadruple the detent torque to 14oz. Convert to grams and it shouldby blt3dp - Printing
Also if the bed dropping when powered off is a concern, you can look for a stepper motor with higher detent torque (holding torque when not energized) as well as look into setting up a compound pulley to increase that torque. Get the numbers right and it might not move at all when powered off. Check out the talk of the compound pulley in this thread here.by blt3dp - Printing
QuoteMongrel_Shark Z screws keep getting out of sync after a few prints I had this problem. It came down to a number of things. 1. One of my couplings was slipping. I used to have Nophead's design then I switched to these. I tried the split aluminum ones for a bit but didn't like them. I suspect that since it all hangs from the motors on my setup, that there was an amount of bounce with theby blt3dp - Printing
I only ask cause I was looking down similar mounting methods for the motors in my design and wondered if they were going to flex all over the place. I may end up either just buying these or over engineering something involving getting some welding help.by blt3dp - CoreXY Machines
I'm wondering about your motor mounts. Are those made from square tube or L angle? How thick are they and do they flex at all?by blt3dp - CoreXY Machines
DD, I've got a couple of questions. My XY stage is shaping up to be pretty similar to yours (after modeling multiple variations, it really seems best). Having the X rail anchored on one end and floating through a bearing block, when it comes to tensioning the belts, I would think that having one end of the X rail floating would allow the entire idler assemblies to tilt inward towards the carrby blt3dp - CoreXY Machines
I'm thinking about using these. http://www.rcmart.com/3racing-stainless-steel-shim-spacer-03mm-thickness-10pcs-each-3racsw05v2-p-28337.html?cPath=421_520by blt3dp - CoreXY Machines
I've actually found that there are precision washers used in RC cars that have a 5mm ID and a 7mm OD that might be good as spacers between the bearings as well as between the bolt head and the "hub"by blt3dp - CoreXY Machines
They say to choose a layer height not more than 80% of your nozzle diameter. So in your case no higher than .2 I'd also say to use the Prusa Calculator and feed it the info for your Z Axis and desired layer height. It'll calculate. I'd choose a layer height that's .2 or under, and a multiple of the step length it calculates, and one that has no error over 10cm It looks like the RePrapPro Menby blt3dp - Printing
I find that the stock values are way too high, even 2 may be too high. Try this: #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {500, 500, .5, 25}by blt3dp - Prusa i3 and variants
Yes, you have 2 states to think of The physical hardware, the endstops are Normally Closed. When pressed they Open The firmware side, the endstops report Open. When pressed they are Triggered With that state, if you don't have an endstop plugged in, it should report Triggered They're this way because if a wire breaks or something else happens, then the thing won't try to tear itself apart whenby blt3dp - Prusa i3 and variants
I've also had a similar problem where the pinch idler on the extruder was too tight. It wasn't deforming the filament, but cutting grooves into it big enough to catch on the edge of where it enters the hot end. Uusually a retraction would bring it up and back down and then it would catch. I ended up taking the hot end up to temp and decreasing the pinch idler until it was just barely touching.by blt3dp - Reprappers
If it's 4-point leveling (AKA all the corners) that is the cause. Changing one corner affects the diagonal, and having them all anchored will cause either the bed or the support carriage to flex when heated. 3-point is the way to go. You may have to make a change to the way it's mounted. But for the bed you'd level 2 corners. And then you'd level a 3rd point on the opposite side of the bed,by blt3dp - General
I've never laid hands on one, but all the pictures I see are the cables wrapped in a loop, I would have thought they'd be rather flexible. I did see that they way the cables were wrapped inside would probably be best for turning one way. My thought was that as long as the forward direction for the extruder turns it that way, that it could handle a little retraction the opposite way, and then onby blt3dp - Mechanics
I was wondering if anyone's tried making something similar to a Flex3drive or Nimble using a Speedometer Cable. Looks like they can be had fairly cheaply. Couple it to a motor, and the other end to some type of worm gear attached to a filament gear and might work?by blt3dp - Mechanics
I believe the G28 after G29 clears the probe calibration. Try doing: G28 G29 G0 X0 Y0 F1800 (F=whatever feedrate you want, /60 to get mm/s)by blt3dp - General Mendel Topics
Calibrate it http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter's_Calibration_Guideby blt3dp - Printing
My knowledge is that when you power on the printer it assumes it's at 0,0,0 If your carriages are elsewhere, that's what it thinks are 0,0,0 until you home it I think technically the workflow is to home it before you power it off, I don't do that. I had the same type of problem until I changed this option #define min_software_endstops true I changed it to false and I could home without a problby blt3dp - Firmware - Marlin
Looks like github disabled my profile thinking I wasn't human, seem to have gotten that resolved and it should show up now.by blt3dp - Firmware - Marlin
It links directly to it when I click. Edit: That's interesting, it doesn't show up when I've logged out, wonder if that's why no one's commented or not been merged.by blt3dp - Firmware - Marlin
Looks like maybe over extrusion is causing back pressure to build up in the nozzle. The ridges and scar where the nozzle dug through them says over extrusion. Calibrate your extruder, http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter's_Calibration_Guide And make sure the print bed is level, and the nozzle is not too close to it. It should barely grip a piece of paper between the bed and nozzle.by blt3dp - Prusa i3 and variants
Figured it out and created pull request #4345 but it hasn't been merged. I have a fork with the necessary changes. https://github.com/darrelhunt/Marlinby blt3dp - Firmware - Marlin
You can figure out if the X End is bad. Measure the distance between the smooth rods at the top of the printer Measure the distance between the smooth rods at the bottom of the printer They should be equal Then take the couplers off of the motors so you can see the motor shaft Measure the distance between the left smooth rod and the center of the motor shaft Measure the distance between the rigby blt3dp - Reprappers
I've long thought about a sealed small stainless steel or copper tank with rounded edges and a heating element either attached beneath or just under. Something to get it up to the right temperature to temper. I'd have an inlet on the top to which I'd attach a pump of some type via tubing to pump air IN to pressurize the tank enough that the chocolate would come out of the outlet tube. The outlby blt3dp - Developers
If 7mm od would work, you could use shims from Misumi http://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110300237240/?Inch=0by blt3dp - Mechanics
Are the endstop switch wires bundled with the stepper motor wires? They've been known to crosstalk and trigger the endstops.by blt3dp - Printing
Try adding this to your end gcode G4 S120 ; wait 2 min M140 S95 ; set bed temp to 95 G4 S120 ; wait 2 min M140 S90 ; set bed temp to 90 G4 S120 ; wait 2 min M140 S85 ; set bed temp to 85 extend as needed Though slowly dropping the heated bed temp would only affect the layers closest to it that the heat is actually radiating up through. For anything higher than that, the top layers will stillby blt3dp - Printing
Your servo settings are off #define NUM_SERVOS 3 That should be 1 #define X_ENDSTOP_SERVO_NR 1 #define Y_ENDSTOP_SERVO_NR 2 #define Z_ENDSTOP_SERVO_NR 1 These should be like this //#define X_ENDSTOP_SERVO_NR 1 //#define Y_ENDSTOP_SERVO_NR 2 #define Z_ENDSTOP_SERVO_NR 0 Index starts at 0, so if you only have 1 servo, it's 0 for your Z Also you might wanna enable safe homing, and choose coordiby blt3dp - Reprappers