There is a command somewhere that will reset the Z height.by RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
I thing the Arc function was supposed to solve or help with this.by RRuser - Slic3r
My 1.2.9 almost never crashes on XP with 500meg ram. Only when I try to re-load a big model several times, maybe.by RRuser - Slic3r
Interestin question... when does a wall become a roof. Maybe using a modifier on the roof would help.by RRuser - Slic3r
I use PETG and keep the fan off.by RRuser - Slic3r
I thought that swappable glass plates (using thermal silicone pads for ease) was the fix for all this. I learned that cooling to fast can chip the glass, so I just let it cool room temp.by RRuser - Slic3r
QuoteYou will see the need for this especially if you have a very large number of retractions close together This is where I make use of "Minimum Travel After Retraction". For small parts, like 3 cm x 1 cm, I make Minimum Travel After Retraction greater than 3 cm so that there is no retraction inside the part, but there will still be retraction for travelling to the next part.by RRuser - Slic3r
I don't think modifier info is stored in the config presets, so is there a way to save the modifier settings?by RRuser - Slic3r
Actually that is probably the problem. Max Vol Extrusion (at 5) worked so well that I have not even considered turning it off, and if it's speeding up on the outer walls then it's working great. After all, a nozzle can only heat up filament so fast, and so that should be the defining limit.by RRuser - Slic3r
Check your infill/perimeter overlap percentage; maybe set it to zero as a test.by RRuser - Printing
Must have been some really loose belts. I was going to say that is looks like an axis was sticking.by RRuser - Printing
On 1.2.9, I have always used 15% overlap with no problems and no raised walls.by RRuser - Printing
You did the main things to reduce it: faster travel, retract before travel, more retract. Should not be blobbing. Since yours is, a lot, maybe your retraction is too fast (50 is too fast for mine) and it's slipping and actually no retracting. Try 20 again. Also try "wipe before retract".by RRuser - Printing
Both motors run from the same driver, so the firmware only sees one motor. Probably a loose connector.by RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
A lot this can be done with modifiers. And I think the retraction issues can be fixed with "extra length on restart". The thicker first layer is done simply by increase first layer height. Thicker brim, and internal brim, can of course be modeled in. The towers problem should not be occurring, if the previous layers were printed right. This might be another retraction problem; if not retractedby RRuser - Slic3r
A bit dark ages, but you could use a windows macro to move the cursor to each model on the list and then set the rotation for each one, while you watch.by RRuser - Slic3r
Where do you set the debug?by RRuser - Slic3r
The nylocks work great for me. No bed movement in months, and no auto leveling needed. I even have two slightly different thicknesses of glass, and I still don't level the bed when changing them (the thicker glass just gives a wider first layer trace width).by RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
Soldering will always be more reliable than connectors.by RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
Next thing is to cut the speed in half, and see if it helps.by RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
Zero just means default. After you get your calibration done, you can try increasing retraction.by RRuser - Printing
I would say it's just over extrusion. Look at the brim... is way over extruded.by RRuser - Printing
I can't tell what side is up. Print a 20 mm test cube.by RRuser - Printing
Still looks like there is no retraction at all. I thought there was no bridging, but I see it there now. At 80 mm/s retraction speed, mine would just buzz (skip) and not retract much. Reducing to 40 helped most of the time, and reducing to 20 works every time. Yours might be skipping on retraction too, and if so, you are getting no retraction.by RRuser - Printing
First thing to find out is if it happens at the same height or place in the print.by RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
A video of using the lcd panel would help.by RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
You can change your speeds in slic3r, but not just in the Y direction.by RRuser - Printing
It has something to do with the the top end of the second tower. When it finished that second tower, it goes sideways. I'm not sure heat would cause this. Might be a problem with the model itself. Try cutting the top off of the model and printing just it, in larger sizes, so you can focus on if the model is correct. This will also tell you if there is a heat problem, but I can't see how heat wouby RRuser - Printing