Ps impossible to totally eliminate in this design... Threaded rods are dreaded rodsby thetazzbot - Printing
The top of your z threaded rods are constrained. They should not be, or so ive read. Think of it like this. If top and bottom are bot constrained the only place for it to wobble is the middle. Threaded rods are never perfectly straight so we must put the wobble at the place it does no harm and that is the topby thetazzbot - Printing
Also, slic3r and cura do things differently. I have had issues with both on certain prints and switched to the other and it printed perfectly. strange but true.by thetazzbot - Reprappers
Printing 20x20 cubes does not mean your printer is perfect. You need to print bigger things with bigger dimensions to see if there is skewby thetazzbot - Reprappers
Could you imagine during development when that thing was slinging mud around the room... Endless laughs.by thetazzbot - Reprappers
You could print many of these things with a dual extruder and using HIPS plastic which disolves in a certain chemical. For the fractals, you should see the Inkscape plugins and then become familiar with blender to model it. The people who are making money at selling objects like that have become experts in using these software, not experts at downloading other people's original works. Just fooby thetazzbot - General
I have a question for the OP. Will you always be printing such huge items? The reason i ask is that for the complexity and size the payoff is not proportional. For example if i were printing tons of smallish parts i would rather go with multiple printers for redundancy and parallel printing. Or a printer with multiple print heads to print simultaneous duplicates. Curious abot the usage of sby thetazzbot - General
yeah i read the links. sorry for thinking out loud and wasting space. of course pla is not a metal, i thought it was funny thoughby thetazzbot - Reprappers
I still think when you combine materials the properties that make them unfavorable individually change to a more favorable set. Melting point of tin is 450 F. Combined with bismuth at the right proportion and you basically get a new element with melting point of around 200F. Is it stiff enough to extrude? Dont know. Can it be combined again? Heck can you combine it with PLA?by thetazzbot - Reprappers
QuoteQcks_ I've thought about reserving a slot in a multi-struder for a solder-struder, but there's issues with acidity and creep. In all honest, I'm probably better off using conductive filament for that. As far as metal objects, you'd be better off using PLA to produce an object, covering it in plaster or sand, and using aluminum to cast the object in process similar to lost wax. A low melby thetazzbot - Reprappers
I printed the T800 skull at 50% size, and it is really cool. Everyone loved it. They were all like "hey can you make me one" I'm like "no" haha j/k. The print took 5.5 hours. The purpose of this kind of challenge is not really to show off to others. It is to reward yourself for endless hours of tweaking to get an ultimate print that you can say "I made a machine that made THIS". And then toby thetazzbot - General
Yes ive soldered. And yes im overly optimistic. Im sure someone once said you can do what were doing now until some fool came along and proved em wrong.by thetazzbot - Reprappers
I made a short video of my printer printing your part. It was printing too slow so at some point I decided to increase speed to 150%. I also adjusted flow, which was a mistake because it made it a little wider. So I backed it down to 100%. I have some delamination issues as I didn't bother with putting the enclosure on (my enclosure is a plastic tote tub Thetazzbot printing a part (video)by thetazzbot - Printing
Yeah is this PLA? If it's ABS, I might bump the temps up to 240. That's my standard temp for abs. For PLA it might be ok. Overall i think the last change you made was a good one. Those filament roles can be a pain. Oh, man. I just saw in your slicer config you are running at 100% infill. that's wholly unnecessary. Back that down to 30% for your structural parts and maybe even 20% forby thetazzbot - Printing
I printed all weekend PET+ using my jhead at 260. I have yet to tear it down to see what it looks like inside. Concerned about the PTFE inside... but i had fan running hard. Another thought that i have on my list to vet it out is, use a larger stainless object. Here's the thing about stainless. It conducts heat very slowly. It is less thermally conductive than brass or aluminum. So insteadby thetazzbot - Printing
The best suggestion so far would be this 3d printer heated bed heats too slow But in all seriousness, from what you've told us so far: 1. You have a cheap chinese kit printer 2. That printer has a cheap PCB heater that cannot get past 100 (i have one too) 3. You're bored with the heat up time. (me too) What I've done to over come this: 1. As soon as I decide I want to start messing with myby thetazzbot - General
Some day, when I get all my other projects done, I'm going to do this. 1. Build an extruder 2. Buy some Bismuth shot and Tin inguts 3. Melt them together 62.5% Bismuth, 37.5% Tin 4. Extrude to 3mm filament 5. Print metal objects at about 95 degrees celcius! Who's with me!? In case anyone does this, you read it here first ! lol or maybe second... And since the fusible alloy has about halby thetazzbot - Reprappers
I use a bowden on my prusa i3 and get great results. i have also used a direct fed Polyprinter and it is blazing fast. it has a unique hot end that is nothing like what we use. it is also a $3000 printer...and mine is roughly $500by thetazzbot - General
PS this image looks good, the one on the right just shows some Z axis issue that I think is the whole X carriage thing is able to move slightly up and down, the nuts that go inside the plastic parts are loose. The ones that connect to the Z rods...by thetazzbot - Printing
so that last object you printed looks like an x axis part, is that from thingiverse? Give me your settings and I'll print it and let's compare. I'm curious to see if we see the same results. I'm printing one from a rework set I have. Speed: 45mm/s, 3mm layer, 35% infill, 230 deg hotend. 90 deg bed. Says it will take 55 minutes.. I'll upload a pick when its done. edit: ok i printed half thaby thetazzbot - Printing
I was expecting the lines on the top layer to represent more of a solid surface but what I'm seeing in your picture are unconnected lines. something similar to the attached i suppose.by thetazzbot - Printing
I think with pla it needs cooling on the part being printed. Best to search the forum for pla cooling... But yes clean the nozzle tip of any hard pla or other plastic prior to doing your leveling. But that depends on how you do the levelling... Servo or probe stick probably you dont need to... If using the paper method then yes. Clean it.by thetazzbot - Printing
I dont believe in the level before every print unless your bed is so loose. Yes heat up the hotend get that block out.by thetazzbot - Printing
Quoteggherbaz Is that t-glase? What's the name of the filament? What temperature, speed and layer height you used? Madesolid Sapphire PET+ 1.75mm diameter Printed in sprial mode, .2mm layer, 250-260 degrees hotend, 90 bed, probably around 40mm/sby thetazzbot - Printing
Ok, I'm not an expert, but I play one on tv.. j/k If your first layer is too thick and second layer gets mashed, a solution is to start a tad higher, thus z offset. yes, this is compensating for improperly setting z in the first place... but in my experiences recently, i was having this problem where the first layer dries and hardens, with some uneven surface, then second layer is too close anby thetazzbot - Printing
Well, maybe not the ultimate ultimate, but I'm sure this will be very challenging.. The T-800 Smooth Skull thing...by thetazzbot - General
I decided to give this tealight thing a try using a really nice Sapphire translucent PET+ filament. I was reluctant to print it because the high temp necessary and I have this ebay special jhead all metal hotend with a ptfe liner. It probably fried that liner (haven't taken it apart yet to see) but the print came out fantastically. this was printed on my DIY prusa i3 at .15mm layer, .4 shellby thetazzbot - Printing
Man I feel like an old salt! Even though I'm not... I just have really been beating my printer up and getting all these same problems. Here's what I did to fix this: in your settings, set z offset to something like .15 and try a print with all other settings normal.by thetazzbot - Printing