But to be honest, it could have been a fluke. There are tons of people (myself included) that bought the $85 E3D V6 but had constant jamming issues. I still cant print with it. So I'm using my $20 jhead. But the customer service is inexcusableby thetazzbot - General
OH, yes I second that! Please, switch to Kossel/Deltas. They are so much sexier and fewer "moving parts" to go wrong. I couldn't imagine having more than one Prusa to babysit I've got mine purring now (knock on wood) and I am awaiting parts for my Mini Kossel. After that I am building a CoreXY heavy metal machine. Industrial style with multiple independent nozzlesby thetazzbot - General
Dentist, your printer is awesome. I also really like the write up you did. Many people including myself thought you could just throw some parts together and start printing. Luckily I have a mechanical, electronics, programming background so I have all the ingredients to keep myself out of hot water. I'll vote ya up!by thetazzbot - General
I documented my approach to hardening the Prusa i3 in an article on my site. For any Prusa builders out there, this is good info. If you have any suggestions for additions please post them here! In summary: Constrain the X axis bearings in their printed-part sleeves Constrain the Z axis captured nut that rides in the X axis motor and idler parts Replace the linear bearings with tighter fittingby thetazzbot - Reprappers
Quotemilkypostman is there a link to this design to print ourselves? I like the spacing on these. Have you tried with PLA? If you have a Prusa style cartesian printer, use these for the X and Z axis: Use these for the Y axis Use PLA, PET, or HIPS. Don't use ABS. You can use abs but they will wear quickly. NYLON would be ideal...by thetazzbot - Reprappers
Sorry mate but ya lost me. Two layers parallel is not same as two layers at 90 degrees. Example: = parallel. + is 90 degrees rotated.by thetazzbot - Printing
Well, I see problems in the good print too. You should disassemble your x axis and check the bearings to see if they travel smoothly. Before you do that disconnect the belt from the x carriage and see if it travels smoothly. Also check for play. Hold the x carriage and try to twist it against the rods like ledt to right.by thetazzbot - Printing
Wouldnt flex, backlash, and other undesirable movements have more negative impact than belts and pulleys? Inkjet printers use belts and they get pretty nifty resolution but they also benefit from multiple nozzles firing off at precise timings. They also use dc motors with encoders so there are some parallels but big differences too.by thetazzbot - General
Or something like these printed lm8uu Thats my listing btw. Not advertising but just making a suggestion. Anyone here with a working printer can print these, but for folks sourcing bearings for new build, its a cost effective solution. And they work wonders... Btw they take about 3 hours a dozen to print, im using HIPS ar .2mm layer heightby thetazzbot - Reprappers
So, I decided to upgrade my auto bed leveling system Once I had everything else calibrated besides the bed, which includes: X Axis bars parallel to the bed, all the way across Bed parallel to the base, left and right, front and back Legs secured to the base Frame secured to the base X motor mount and X idler secured to the Z nuts that the Z threaded rods go through Y rods secured to the legsby thetazzbot - General
Some good comments. perhaps we can liken the current tech to bubblejet vs color laser. These things do seem to have a long curve.by thetazzbot - General
Any one else feel like they are five years behind this trend? I'm not sure how I missed this boat, because the hobby sure is fun. With the advent of cheap consumer printers, and the patent craze that Stratisys is on, I wonder how much life the hobby has left... Where's the next trend? Where will this hobby take us? Are we already a dinosaur?by thetazzbot - General
There are folks selling screw sets for specific printer kits on ebay. I saw one for 19.95 for kossel mini screw set. I calculated the local cost for the same assortment and it was 15.47 but you have to buy boxes of 50 and 100 which comes out to 70 ish. Worth it imho to save time and money.by thetazzbot - Reprappers
I've tried endlessly to prove my first theory wrong, that the Shaxon abs filament is crap. I bought a spool of Neon Green. And it has been no end of headaches. What I've pretty much determined through non-scientific methods is that there are two types of Dye for filaments. Liquid and Powder. The better filaments use liquid dye, or basically dyed plastic pellets mixed with nuetral during theby thetazzbot - Printing
It goes hand in hand with posting before searching. People with the answers tire of repetitive questions from first time posters. Just dont show up at the party loaded with the same question that has been asked dozens of times without putting forth some effort on your own part.by thetazzbot - General
What do these lines of code look like in your marlin configuration.h file... and where did you get Marlin from? These are all from my working marlin configuration.h for Prusa i3. X/Z endstops are on the left side of the machine.. Y is back center. // Mechanical endstop with COM to ground and NC to Signal uses "false" here (most common setup). const bool X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // setby thetazzbot - Printing
Let's say you have two cubes side by side [ A ] [ B ] the [ ] are the perimiters. If the slicer wants to go from A to B, it could sometimes calculate a path from the left [ of A all the way to the left [ of B. This will cause it to cross the right ] of A. This is "crossing the permiter of A" So this tells the route planner to look for a way to go from A to B without crossing. So it will trby thetazzbot - Printing
Its hard to tell, but with that front skirt line looks like it disappeared, I'd say your bed is not adjusted properly and the nozzle is dragging through the first layer.by thetazzbot - Printing
What kind of hot-end are you using? Some are more jam-prone than others. I disagree with the Fan always on concept. I let Repetier control the fan during my prints and I do not get jamming (anymore). I don't want the fan on during the first layer. Here is how the automated process goes with Repetier, and Prontrface: This is the process that works for me without fail now: Load STL. Selectby thetazzbot - Printing
As far as electronics again going with a beginners outfit like arduino and ramps might be conventional wisdom but there are better all in one boards that are still marlin based for about the same price as arduino and ramps. Reprap wiki has the list.by thetazzbot - General
I use a modified $20 all metal jhead hotend. Im getting consistent feeding with abs hips nylon and pla. I wouldnt wasted any time making my own hotend until i got the printer rock solid. For me my problems are the endless supply of settings in slicing and print speed vs qualityby thetazzbot - General
Attach your configuration.h fileby thetazzbot - General
I have a prusa i3 also. I've had crappy prints (that looked like yours) until I decided to completely tighten everything up. Replaced my horrible ebay metal bearings with these put set screws in the X axis motor mount/idler where the Z threaded rods go through, rebuilt my Y axis and attached the hole thing to a 5/8 inch piece of mdf now its solid and i get good layering. I have other issby thetazzbot - General
I want to print this dragon I've tried 3 times with some red HIPS which I thought might look cool. Right now its printing in ABS flourescent green. But I'm seeing holes in the shells. And a lot of "pimples"by thetazzbot - General
Just an FYI, I get that with STLs downloaded from thingiverse sometimes. Seems some people aren't paying attention and exporting low res.by thetazzbot - Printing
Pic or it didnt happen typically that kind of stuff could be the y axis skipped, snagged, or stalled.by thetazzbot - Printing
Those files are too little for me to see. attach the svg.by thetazzbot - Reprappers
Here are three pieces printed separately that exhibit the same odd behavior. holes in the layers at the same spot...identically... Thoughts? Repetier host, .2mm layer height, Cura slicing.by thetazzbot - Printing
Don't trust assembled hot ends. You should re-assemble them following the official instructions. Clues: Like Riann said, but you need to heat the hot end up to properly assemble it because metal expands and will loosen. So heat it up, tighten the brass nozzle all the way in (official instructions say back it off 1 turn, but meh...) make sure the heat sink and the heat block are not touchinby thetazzbot - Printing