Ok, I'll throw in some curve balls. My Y axis rods were not the same diameter end to end. This was causing my bearings to grab tightly at one end and make the loud sounds that I thought were the motor, belt, current as well. I replaced my rods with some scrap rods from inkjet printers that i bought off craigslist and the problem went away. So, from this experience, I determined a couple of imby thetazzbot - Printing
Well, the rambo is still cost effective. I like the 32 bit boards but they are approaching my $$$ limit for one single part of the printer. I don't like the sandwich solutions. I'd rather have an FPGA based solution but I think that is a long way off $150 for a smoothieboard over an Rambo/Arduino/Ramps @ $75 complete... Is there enough of an advantage there? I suppose it depends on theby thetazzbot - General
Are you sure your hot end is actually 210 degrees? Just because the LCD or Prontrface says it is does not make it so. Get a second opinion You need a way to validate the temp reading. I use my multimeter with a K type thermocouple probe. I found that I was using the wrong thermister table and I was off by 16 degrees Testing other values, I could see variances from 75 degrees up to 5 degreby thetazzbot - Reprappers
I would suggest putting the PCB under the aluminum top plate. The PCB will warp during heating.by thetazzbot - Reprappers
Import the svg into 123d design, extrude to .3mm, then export stl. set your slicer to .3mm layer height, temps to zero bed, zero hot end, print.. sounds good in theory But i'm sure the inkscape gcoder plugin would work, but i think you may be missing a step. Like, did you convert all your objects to paths? Do your objects have strokes? The gcode follows the strokes, not the fills.by thetazzbot - Reprappers
Separate hotends means separate heat controls. Could be useful....by thetazzbot - General
Having just survived this process myself, I would highly recommend the Rambo board at a mininum. Dont go the ramps road. The connections just result in a hair ball of wires sticking out and the power connector sucks.by thetazzbot - General
Settings i. Firmware dont matter. Its the slic3r settings that matter. You have first layer temp and after layer temps. 235 min for abs for hotend. 90 min for bed. And i dont preheat so the firmwar settings do not matter for me. I let repetier do the preheat when i press Print.by thetazzbot - Reprappers
Under extrudi g. In slic3r try upping the extrusion multiplier 5 percent at a time. another way is the extruder steps per mm calibrationby thetazzbot - Reprappers
Something I wanted to mention for your thermistor issue. I had a problem finding the right table ID value to use. When I first plugged it in, it was way off. Read like 120 when the actual temp was off the scale. That's how I melted the plastic lock ring. The correct setting for marlin for my e3d v6 full kit that I bought was: // 5 is 100K thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan &amby thetazzbot - General
Yeah im about to do some tweaking too.by thetazzbot - General
Im actually only doing abs right now. Do u have a bbq probe thermometer the digital kind? It will go that high and accurate.by thetazzbot - General
oh, well here is my assessment based on testing what I have seen, is when i pull out the filament, it has a section about 30 mm that is swelled to 1.92 mm, after that it goes to normal 1.73 mm. so that tells me that the "transition" section is getting too hot, and causes the filament to swell. This causes the clog as it cannot go into the "melting" section properly. It is going to take moby thetazzbot - General
Are you sure the H pattern/Corexy design can handle the speed? There has to be something said for independent axis of motion... EDIT: You also have theoretical extrusion limits..by thetazzbot - General
Quotegabrielcr78 that's right tthetazzbot, one time I failed to connect the heatsink fan, i realized soon enought so i removed the PTFE tube and it was ruined, luckyly I learned my lesson with no more damage than that. but the thing is that i printed several stuff with this e3d v6 in pretty good quality before swaping to this new extruder... that's the reason it thought it was related to that chaby thetazzbot - General
Quoteo_lampe Quotedc42 Interesting idea! Another approach would be to use a geared DC motor for the extruder drive instead of a stepper motor, with an optical rotary encoder to provide feedback, and measure the motor current to determine the force being provided. You want to use a dc motor to do the work of a stepper? Good luck with stopping the motor precisely. Even if you had a 3600 steps/revby thetazzbot - Developers
Folgertech has unbeatable prices. They have drastically reduced prices on the kossel kit. You would be hard challenged to source all that yourself cheaper... Especially with shipping and frustrationby thetazzbot - Reprappers
hook it up in the order you have it red green yellow blue 2b 2a 1a 1b if it turns in the wrong direction, flip it, or set the flag in marlin to do the reversing.by thetazzbot - Reprappers
Wow I thought it was just me. i have been unable to survive an entire print with this e3d v6. i have almost the exact setup and problems. however, im running 16 microstep drivers. what I have observed is the filament is swelling in the threaded tube where it exits the ptfe. one thing to make sure of, is to bevel the end of your bowden tube so it inserts properly into the stainless steel threaby thetazzbot - General
i second the idea of manual z at power on. The switches suck, and any time you change bed material it needs to be manually set at optimal zero. Also depends on how stable the bed is.by thetazzbot - General
My .o2 cents... I sourced all my own parts for the Prusa i3 that I have now. Spent more money than most kits. But I have exactly the printer that I crafted. Kits will get you 80% there. you will spend more on that last 20%... surprisingly more.. These are my main gripes about Prusa I3 Y axis rods shake and move in their sockets. Need zip ties, but may interfere with Y axis motion. Acrylic fby thetazzbot - General
QuoteAndrewBCN QuoteBillHall Cheers Andrew, maybe I need to get a steel frame then...need to get the best bang for my buck as I said...still with the E3D though right? The E3D is a very good hotend, but you may want to go with the new E3D Lite to save a few quid (or bucks if you are in the US). no way. there is litterally no functional difference between e3d lite and the ebay jhead all metal fby thetazzbot - General
Quotecdru Quote691175002 Why bother with extrusion when the correct components are easily available?Short answer is reduced cost (hopefully) and complexity. Using extrusion allows you to reduce your part count. If you can use extrusion that is Good Enoughâ„¢ for both structural support and linear movement, you kill two birds with one stone. No it might not be the greatest and most precise, but forby thetazzbot - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist fatesalign- check your zero and leveling. The first layer needs to be squished down on the plate. Also, slowing down the first layer is good, too. How fast are you printing? I print ABS on kapton on aluminum. No juice, no hairspray, no glue. Works great. 105C bed, 235C nozzle. wish I knew the secret... not getting adhesion to kapton tape alone, even though I knowby thetazzbot - General
I have the same setup. Try this. Kapton tape plus ABS juice.. My temps are 240/90. Unless youre printing fast then 250 is too high. Also, what kind of hot end do you have? If it has ptfe tube inside then you are at risk of deforming it and causing a log jam.by thetazzbot - General
I'm curious, anyone have thought on what are the advantages/disadv. of having threaded rod on outside vs inside? Kinda hard to explain, but if you look at the Prusa I3: Prusa I3: You can see the Z axis threaded rod on the "inside" of the x axis, vs the opposite: Mendel 90: any thoughts either way ?by thetazzbot - Reprappers
Quotelunarkingdom digital dentist, I am only using ABS on this printer as it is the only material strong enough for my needs and I do not plan on using anything else on it, my old 8x8 prusa i3 is about to be rebuilt to take ABS and ninjaflex but I will not be doing that until I find a hotbed solution that works for this 12x12 printer, thus this thread. I am leaning hevily toward using glass as Iby thetazzbot - General
Did you change this setting: #define min_software_endstops false //If true, axis won't move to coordinates less than HOME_POS. it is true by default. you need to set it to false that so that after probing, marlin will let the nozzle go down below 0 up to your z offset value.by thetazzbot - Reprappers
I've read a lot about the folger i3 and looked at it's printed parts, they are very good. I like that they have a sturdy X axis adjustable belt end. The one i have has already cracked. look at the reviews on youtube, theres a lot of happy customers. ps avoid the "Prusa I3 Rework" variants. that's what I have and I'm not a happy customer lol. Slowly replacing them with the folger ones as iby thetazzbot - General
Man, If I knew now what I knew then.... 1. $19 hotends suck. 2. Sourcing my own parts was not cheaper than a kit. 3. Print replacement parts as soon as you get it printing. 4. If it bends, rattles, wobbles, chatters, grinds, it will probably cause you problems. 5. Clean all your metal rods thoroughly (break parts cleaner) and use a PTFE based spray lubricant. It won't attract dust and diby thetazzbot - General