Hello there, I have a Tronxy P802M, which has an acrylic frame. I have made it stiffer by screwing it to a sheet of wood and adding some braces so the X axis doesn't make the frame wobble the higher the printer goes in Z. Currently the aluminium (i think) printsurface is mounted on an acrylic sheet with the regular springs + screws. I still have a stainless steel plate, that I made a few yearsvon Diemex - Mechanics
I find it really difficult to change/mod the x axis when the bars are horizontal. I have leadscrews with T8 Nuts, an E3D Hotend, my own fan shrowd, a custom x-carriage etc. There are not many off the shelf designs or parts for the horizontal bars. I would like to move from my bowden setup using a BMG dual drive extruder to a direct drive. I need to reprint the x axis clamps for the rods anywaysvon Diemex - Mendel90
"Permament" (Saved) offset - move nozzles away from bed, + moves closer to bed M206 Z0.1; Or whatever your offset is M500; Save to EEPROM M503; Show EEPROM Settings Temporary G92 Z-0.1von Diemex - Mendel90
So there seem to be 2 different scenarios: Printer stops -> Heaters switch off. The cause for this was a loose connection on the power supply. I noticed by monitoring the power pins with the osci. Printer stops/pauses and heaters stay on. It is less frequent, but I am still scratching my head on this one. Should I monitor the 5V rail between the GND and 5V pins on the EXT or the ISP pin headvon Diemex - Mendel90
I have had an issue that has developed and gotten worse over the last 2-3 weeks. It started out that the printer just stopped occasionally (1 out of 10 or so) and wouldn't respond anymore. Now it is about every second time, with the likelyhood increasing the longer the print is. Yesterday I did 2 prints right after one another. It stopped after 10 seconds on the 2nd print. When the printer stops,von Diemex - Mendel90
While I stumbled upon the mechanical rigidity reprap wiki articles I have some questions. I was wondering why the bearing traps on the x-axis-motor-bracket and x-idler don't use cable ties to lock them down? Are they supposed to flex a little bit? The back follower bearing on the x carriage has these flex elements. I would assume these were designed to be printed in ABS and won't last that long ovon Diemex - Mendel90
I noticed that when I calibrate the bed height using a dial gauge that the frame isn't that sturdy. Just leaning on the table on which the printers sits has an effect. Pushing down on a corner of the base dibond sheet is visible on the dial gauge. Isn't most of the weight of the x-axis resting on the base dibond sheet? The leadscrews are connected to the axle of the motors and that should pressvon Diemex - Mendel90
I got the Mendel90 5 years ago and didn't really know what I was doing when I assembled it. I was only in my 2nd semester of my bachelors and didn't know what to do with the printer and also didn't get it to work properly. After the thermistor on the hotend somehow failed and it melted through a PEI sheet whilst heating up the hotend I had enough and it sat in the cupboard for 4 years. Now I am ivon Diemex - Mendel90
Thank you for your reply. I checked the connections and the soldering points at that small pcb next to the extruder motor were very bad. I was ashamed when I looked at it and resoldered all connections. It works perfectly now and I have the impression that the extruder heats up a lot quicker now.von Diemex - Mendel90
I have the Dibond Mendel90. All of a sudden the J-Head hotend has stopped working. Sadly I was not in the room, but it happened while it was printing. I came back and saw lots of extrusion prevented errors in pronterface. The hotend had stopped heating. How could I figure out what has broken?von Diemex - Mendel90
My inductive sensor arrived today. Datasheet is here. I had hoped that the metal in mirrorglas would be enough to trigger the sensor but it isn't. Works well with a 5mm sheet of aluminium though. So how do I connect the sensor to the board? I have noticed that there are 2 unused pins on that small extruder circuit board, but the sensor has 3 wires. It would be nice if I could only use the ribbvon Diemex - Mendel90
Hab meinen induktiven Sensor erhalten. Er erkennt das Spiegelglas nicht. Wenn ich das Glas umdrehe und die spiegelnde Fläche oben habe erkennt er es, aber der Sensor liegt dann fast auf. Mein Sensor hat einen Schaltabstand von 4mm, man bräuchte für Spiegelglas dann einen induktiven Sensor der weit über 10mm Schaltabstand hat. Oder besser gesagt es geht nicht ohne das Glas zu bekleben oder ähnlichvon Diemex - Projekte
Hab gestern einen gebrauchten Sensor auf Ebay ersteigert . PNP, 3-Leiter, 12-48V, 4mm, induktiv von Telemecanique, Datenblatt hier. Ich hab einen Mendel90, was ist die einfachste Methode um den Sensor anzuschließen? Wo kriege ich die 12V her? Ich hab die ganzen Ausgänge ausm Netzteil in das Melzi Board gesteckt. Hab auf ebay heute noch ein fertiges Set mit einem kapazitiven Sensor und fertiger Advon Diemex - Projekte
Funktioniert ein induktiver Sensor mit Spiegelglas? Oder müsste ich das Glas trotzdem noch mit Aluklebeband bekleben?von Diemex - Projekte
Das Ding ist totaler bullshit. Es ist überhaupt nicht steif wie z.B. Glas und verbiegt sich. Sogar beim drucken sehe ich wie das Ding sich durchbiegt. Das ist schlecht weil die Schichten mit Druck aufgetragen werden müssen damit sie zusammenhalten. Zudem ist die Platte auch nicht 3 mm dick sondern zwischen 2 und 3 mm. Ich muss also erst meine Z_Home_pos anpassen weil es sonst in der Luft druckt.von Diemex - Druck- und Heizbetten
Looking for some ideas for things to print. I'm interested in parts that actually fulfill a function and are useful. Do you print anything that you would have purchased before? Here are things I have printed so far, which are all my own designs. A holder (wip) which makes it easier to hold and write with the spen: Shower door handle broke off, so I printed a replacement: The part to hold tvon Diemex - General
Thanks for your help, seems like I misunderstood the manual. I was able to level the bed to about 0.05 mm accuracy. I added a m3 nyloc nut below the pillars at the back. They are rocksolid now and the pillars can't rotate from turning the screw. For leveling the bed right/left I did the following: In pronterface I moved the z-axis up the amount I needed to adjust. I noted the position of the motovon Diemex - Mendel90
I have spent far too much time on my bed leveling, I'm running in circles and achieving absolutely nothing. Seems like I fix it on one corner and then another corner is wrong again. I'm not sure how accurate it should be or what is even achievable through manual adjustements. I use a piece of aluminium rod as feeler and then move the z-axis up/down until it slides through and make adjustements avon Diemex - Mendel90
Finished building the Mendel90. What works: Extruder and bed heating Thermistors x axis movement x axis homing What doesn't work: Only one motor on the z axis moves, the other one is unpowered. I can move it manually without resistance z axis and y axis are swapped. Moving the printer up and down moves it back and forward y axis alignment doesn't work, the switch gets pressed but it doesnt stopvon Diemex - Mendel90