Thank you, could you explain what is wrong about speaker wires? I have a 4mm² here, so I could use this one. Again only the right side on my sketch. Which cables should I get and what is the difference?von h4nc - Prusa i3 and variants
I'm a little confused now, because I got different recommendations. I attached a sketch of my setup. The silicone heatbed cable is 2,5mm², length about 40cm. The cable from the XT60 connector to the power supply is a 2,5mm² speaker cable. The length is approximately 120cm. So the total length is about 1,6m. Wouldn't it be useless to use bigger cables at one section, while leaving it at 2,5mmvon h4nc - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi, I upgraded to a new heated bed with a silicone heater with 300 Watts at 12V. Before I had about 200 Watts at 15V. The cables have a cable cross section of 2,5 mm². Doing the math the new one will draw 25 Amps (old one 13,3 A). The bed is well insulated and at 50°C its not on very often, so the cables don't heat up. When the bed is set to 100°C the cables get a little bit wormer after a fvon h4nc - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi the bridges are 0.5 mm wide. I attached a new version with 0.6 mm width, maybe this one works with your settings.von h4nc - Printing
I i tried cura and you are right the results are better. I also tries the prusa edition but it does not show better results. I designed a bridgetest that should show if its possible to print the sun dial. (it is not an important part that i need, but now it's a challenge ;-) ) I attached this bridgetest file. Maybe you can test if you are able to print it. I printed a lot of them with several dvon h4nc - Printing
I finally managed to print in a better quality with ABS. It was indeed underextrusion (mixed with to small width values). There is still a problem with details. In the picture attached you can see that there are small gaps between the detail perimeters and the infill. How can I avoid this? Also I'm trying to print the sun dial again. I attached another picture showing the first layer. Is this ovon h4nc - Printing
Hi, I'm updating RC8 to bugfix 1.1.0. I got a error while compiling that says: SanityCheck.h:521: error: #error "Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN requires Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING to match Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING." #error "Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN requires Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING to match Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING." //changed Thing is if i set those parameters bovon h4nc - Firmware - Marlin
Where can I find this pull request area?von h4nc - Firmware - Marlin
Hi, how do you upgrade to a new Marlin version? Is it necessary to compare the configuration files by hand or is there another way? Thxvon h4nc - Firmware - Marlin
I'm starting to think that the problem is underextrusion. I got good prints with my none auto setting (0.4 width with 0.4 nozzle) and I calibrated my printer with this settings. Calibration object was a thin walled cube (without top and bottom) with 0.4 wall thickness. Maybe this calibration process was my mistake. Now even PLA prints don't turn out good. Perimeters have gaps and infill looksvon h4nc - Printing
Thank you for the explanation! I used 0.2mm layer height. I will try that.Thx!von h4nc - Printing
Hi, are you able so close wider infills (4mm holes) with one abs layer? I can't. And this influences the next layer. Four top layers in the picuteres attached. And I think this is my (hopefully) last bigger problem with ABS. The top layer cracks while printing and gets gaps and holes, because its not able to bridge between those small distances. I tried to reduce the hotend temperature, but tvon h4nc - Printing
Thanks you! Could you explain ghosting and ringing? The whole thing is about printing the populat sundial. So after all of your help I tried it again (with auto mode). The infill looks much better now, but I still face problems with short bridging (see picture). I looks like the extruded filament doesn't stick to the starting point. But maybe it's underextrusion again, it could be that the avon h4nc - Printing
Hi, I played with the width settings. I tried 0.4, 0.44, 0.48 and automatic. All other settings stood the same. Honeycomb 20% infill. See picture attached. The 0.48 and the automatic look good to me. The question about what exactly the automatic mode does is still open to me. It says that it depends on the layer height. For me that is to less information to figure out how calculates the widthvon h4nc - Printing
I printed a lot of pla parts with the 0.4mm setting and they came out really good. You say "it will sure lot work". So why did it work? Do you always set the width to a higher value (10 -20% higher?) Do you use the autmatic mode? What does it do exactly?von h4nc - Printing
Thanks for your help. I will try less retraction. I never understood why the standard setting in slicer for the different flow settings is set automatic. Why should the software be able to change the width while the hardware isn't able too? I set all those values to 0.4 because one time I printed a thin wall calibration print (0.4 walls). In automatic mode the walls got much thicker. Settingsvon h4nc - Printing
Hi sry for my late reply. Your cubes really look good. Thank you. Maybe its a problem with the filament. But than this would also happen to the perimeters. I printed a lot of pla parts the last days withour any problem. All came out perfect. I actually use a chinese e3d clone. Again PLA perfect, but maybe there are some problems with ABS and this clone. Thank you again!von h4nc - Printing
Thanks! That would be nice. Here is my ABS config (slic3r).von h4nc - Printing
The last picture I attached is printed with honeycomb infill.von h4nc - Printing
Sry for my late reply. I attached another picture. Maybe stringing was the wrong term. I hope you can see what I mean in the picture. Each infill layer looks like it is not attached to the layer before. The perimeters look good.von h4nc - Printing
The 25% does not show the problem good in a picture so I did one with 15% (honeycomb). See picture. If you look close enough you can see stringing between the intersection. It looks like there is to less material. This also effects briding. I want to print the digital sun dial but the details are not possible.von h4nc - Printing
good guess rectangular, 20mm cube, 10% infill. Now I will try it with honeycomb, 25%von h4nc - Printing
I'm sicing with Slic3r. I had these problems with high ifill percentage (30%) too. I'll try faster infill and a lower temperture. Thanks!von h4nc - Printing
Hi, I'm still new to printing with ABS and have problems with the infill (picture attached) and even bridges. It seems that the first infill layer doesn't adhere good enough to the layer below. This creates small gaps and the next infill layer does not build up as it should, because of the gap below and the bad bridging behavior. Can someone help?von h4nc - Printing
Thanks so much, that helps a lot. Which temperaturdrop would you recommend? Even if you can't tell it for all printers and I have to find it out by myself, but which is the right direction? From 100°C to 90 or 80? Should I also drop the first layer bed temperature? And yes I have a thick thermal insulation on the underside of the bed.von h4nc - Printing
Thank you all! I did a calibration print with ABS and recognized another problem (see picture attached). The edges at layers that are near the heated bed bend inside. What could cause this? The bed temperature is 100°C.von h4nc - Printing
Thanks! Is it common to use sacrificial towers when printing with ABS? I also know sacrificial towers when printing with something like the Diamond hotend to wipe colors.von h4nc - Printing
Hi, I usually print with PLA. I tried ABS a few times but the print never turned out as good as the pla ones. Today I tried it again with a new ABS filament. I had no warping, which was the problem in former prints. Now I have a new problem. the print looks very good for most of the layers. But in last few layers of the print the model has a small tower and the ABS downwards the actual printvon h4nc - Printing
Thanks! I had auto cooling enabled in slic3r. Now I have it at 100% and it works.von h4nc - Printing