Verkaufe hier meinen fast fertigen 3D Drucker, der auf dem kleinen Skeleton3D Drucker basiert (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:560353). Aus zeittechnischen Gründen komme ich leider einfach nicht mehr dazu diesen niedlichen Drucker fertigzustellen. Zuviele Baustellen Sämtliche Bauteile wurden nachkonstruiert und verstärkt. So einen hat niemand. Der Drucker der hier verkauft wird, wurde modifizivon ianmcmill - Schwarzes Brett
So these prints were printed with a retraction setting of 4.5mm @ 80mm/s. In the end of the print you can clearly see that retraction settings doesn't deal with the heavy oozing. This excessive oozing might result from the preasure built up inside the hotend and as there are no retraction commands once the print is finished or as there is no PTFE inliner inside the hotend, the (PLA) plastic meltvon ianmcmill - Mechanics
Quotedislegal After setting max jerk to 15, I still had layers shift. I have checked the tension of the belts - they seem right. Any tighter and it becomes difficult to slide the print bed. I have checked the pulleys and they seem tight on the motor axles. After setting max jerk to 10, I had a successful print of a test Marvin without any layers shifting. Although he is a little droopy on the rivon ianmcmill - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Don't jump at my throat but are the pulleys all fastened? Are the belts all tight and fixed? This layer shifting typically results from loose pulleys. Even though the cube printed nicely before. EDIT oops hit send too late.von ianmcmill - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Of couse I tried different retraction settings. I asked the vendor himself and he stated that they print with 2mm @ 35mm/s. I have turned it up to 40mm/s and haven't seen any improvements. I still haven't disassembled the extruder. 80mm/s is something I wouldn't have gone by myself. But I am always open to suggestions. Did some research on the interwebs and haven't found *any* information whatsovon ianmcmill - Mechanics
Okay. I will fall back to my good old DIY wade extruder. Also it is bigger then the Sintron extruder I have a bigger print area and prints come out in higher quality. I'll disassemble this MK8 extruder. The motor and the mk8 pulley should find another use. 50€ for a stepper and a mk8 pulley is quite the deal. Lesson learned.von ianmcmill - Mechanics
The thermistor came with a wire attached. 1) Solder joints look okay. 2) I crimped the connector at the end of the cable myself. I'll check on that. Maybe some bad connection there. 3) Wires to thermistor glass bead seem to be soldered. The connections are covered with shrinking tube. 4) Cable is okay. I just did a print without temp sensor defect issues. Also changing temperature while printingvon ianmcmill - Controllers
More pictures of oozing and now also with stringing. YAY. I am getting there. Retraction settings in Slic3r. Distance = 2mm Speed = 40mm/s Travel speed 80mm/s Print temperature= 200°C in the beginning. Then set it down to 193°C. Print interrupted because of Communication Timeout. Board = Teensylu v0.8 - I wonder if this piece is starting to die. Would have been a wonder if cheap stuff from overvon ianmcmill - Mechanics
I am not applying couple of hundred volts No. With "it reads nothing" I mean there is the same number on the multimeter as when both pins point into the their. I don't read 0 ohm. I just finished another print and I updated my first post above. At 200°C the thermistor reads 35kOhm on the connector to the board. Yes the thermistor on the new hotend is completely new. It came with the extrudervon ianmcmill - Controllers
Printer: Prusa i3 Controller: Teensylu 0.8 Thermistors: Several thermistors from different hotends. Software: Repetier Firmware: dunno. used to run for the last 1-2 years perfectly. I have this problem that sometimes when I want to print the printer says "Extruder 0: temp sensor defect" and switches into dry run mode. If I restart everything (e.g. power off the printer completely, remove usb, revon ianmcmill - Controllers
I have now set retraction to 2mm at a speed of 40mm/s. Looks better as far as you can say this after one print. Still, when the print finishes the hotend oozes out alot like shown in this picture I haven't had this issue with my E3D V6 clone on a Wades extruder. Any ideas?von ianmcmill - Mechanics
I had forgotten to set the z axis to 0 and this failed print came out. The nozzle started to print 10mm above the print bed. As of yet, this is my best fail print...von ianmcmill - Mechanics
Yes it's from Sinton. Dual extruding. Now I get it. I don't have endstops installed. O Lampe, what settings do you have for retraction? Before I used a geared Wade extruder and those settings clearly do not fit. It oozes alot and sometimes because of this the threaded hotend runs empty and air is being extruded. Nevertheless, when it prints, the results are okay. My setup before was a cloned evon ianmcmill - Mechanics
First print failed. Need to adjust retraction and cooling.von ianmcmill - Mechanics
Hello Community, I have ordered an All-Metal-Extruder : As I have realized the same extruder goes for less then 50€ what I have paid. But this only as a side-note. When it arrived part of the fan was broken out and one cable came loose. The vendor is very attentive and send a replace fan. So no big deal either. But when I wanted to install the extruder some strange feeling did overcome me...von ianmcmill - Mechanics
Thanks for the answer. So the "Extruder Cooler" is a different function from the default fan that cools the print itself ? Did I get you right? This is my clone It came with ribs. I came without PTFE inliner. When running the hotend one single minute without cooling by the 30mm fan, it jammed instantly. I actually ordered a new thread with PTFE inline and it worked way better (without coolvon ianmcmill - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Hey! You are not alone. I have found this feature (extruder cooler) right now but I am not really sure how it works. Configuration: I have an All Metal Hotend (E3D clone) 1.75mm with a PTFE inliner. Printing PLA on a hotbed. Teensylu controller. The hotend is cooled by a 30mm fan. The print itself is cooled by a centrifugal fan. So, two fans. Right now both fans are connected to the one defaulvon ianmcmill - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Okay so here is the complete Z axis. I hope I didn't forget anything. These are the parts for building the support platform for a (generic) build platform but are especially made for a bigger version of the Skeleton3D. I can add the parts that hold the smooth rods and the motor as well. I also remodeled the X and Y motor holders to a much stronger version. Also the pulley holders are remodeledvon ianmcmill - General New Machines Topics
This becomes more of a buildlog than a resourceful help thread so here you go with more pictures and printed parts. I assembled them and they fit perfect. NOW the build platform, no matter if it is a thin aluminium plate or a 1cm thick wall tile, is stury. The original one really was not stiff at all. Even in tiny and transportable scale. Maybe this one now is a bit overkill but rather over killvon ianmcmill - General New Machines Topics
Yeah sure. Taking the upsize in consideratin it is not that tiny anymore. Transportable ? Clearly. 30cm cube. I wanted to use the head bed but I already have removed the silicon head pad. Though as I don't have an aluminium plate around I thought I could go back to the basalt thing. Anyways I have now come up with a support platform that is rigid enough. Thanks !von ianmcmill - General New Machines Topics
Okay so I reduced the width of the arms to 10 mm and rotated the bearing holder 90° so that the bearing can be clamped in with two screws. The overall print time is now reduced to around 5 hours for both parts. I also increased the outer perimeter print speed to 45mm/sec from 30mm/sec. stlvon ianmcmill - General New Machines Topics
I'm in a dilemma. I'm building a Skeleton3D printer (link) but at a slightly larger scale. I want to use my 'basalt' heat bed from my old TwoUp. The original design of the Z axis is too weak for that build platform. It warps and bends, it wobbles and jiggles. I started to construct my own design in Fusion360. I now have two designs at hand but I am not really sure about them. I am by no means avon ianmcmill - General New Machines Topics
QuotePhilro Bei mir tut das Hotend nun auch was es soll. Das Problem war wohl eine Kombination aus mehreren Sachen. Das Hotend war anfangs nicht ordentlich zusammen gebaut, so konnte das Filament zwischen Teflon und Messing fließen. Außerdem war die Vorschubgeschwindigkeit für das Filament zu hoch. Mit 15mm/min läuft es sehr gut. allerdings habe ich nun ein anderes Problem : nach ca. 2 Minutenvon ianmcmill - Extruder, Hotends & verschiedene Materialien
So ich nochmal. Ich muss mir angewöhnen den Tag nicht vor dem Abend zu loben. Als erstes: Das Merlin-Hotend verstopft nicht mehr so wie vorher. Auch nach Abkühlung auf Raumtemperatur und erneuter Aufheizung kann man per Hand Filament durch drücken. ABER: Bei 3 Drucken ist jeweils bei ungefähr 3-4mm Schichthöhe kein Filament mehr aus der Düse gekommen, dafür aber aus dem PEEK Röhrchen. Das siehvon ianmcmill - Extruder, Hotends & verschiedene Materialien
So. Heizbett "repariert"... Also ich muss sagen, das Merlin Hotend läuft jetzt wie es soll. Verstopft nicht mehr. Auch nach Abkühlphasen extrudiert es wunderbar.von ianmcmill - Extruder, Hotends & verschiedene Materialien
So... Ich hab jetzt das PEEK Teil mal mit ner M5er Gewindestange "durchgeputzt". Gew.Stange in Akkuschrauber und vor durch das PEEK vor- und zurück laufen lassen. Jetzt ist der Widerstand weg (PLA Reste), den ich vorher hatte, wenn ich in das PEEK Röhrchen was einschrauben wollte. Das PTFE Röhrchen hab ich am Stoß sauber gemacht und 2mm tiefer reingeschraubt. Dann das Messinggewinde dagegengescvon ianmcmill - Extruder, Hotends & verschiedene Materialien
Hmm ja der Thermistor is mal rausgefallen. Aber nur sehr kurz und war aber nie über 240°C und schon davor hats verstopft. Jetzt kann ich ja versuchen das PTFE passgenauer an das Messingteil heran zuschrauben damit es besser abschließt. Anderenfalls ists wohl am besten ein neues PTFE-Röhrchen für 1-2 € bei ebay zu kaufen.von ianmcmill - Extruder, Hotends & verschiedene Materialien
Also der PTFE Inline hat ein Außengewinde. Ich hab einfach mal oben eine Kerbe in das PTFE geschnitten und konnt das dann ganz easy rausschrauben. Hier nochmal Bilder. Ich liebe Bilder. PTFE Inline by ianmcmill PTFE Inline by ianmcmill PTFE Inline by ianmcmillvon ianmcmill - Extruder, Hotends & verschiedene Materialien
Ich hab nochmal das Hotend aus der Tonne geholt. Das kann ja wohl nicht sein, dass ich vor dem Ding kapituliere... So also aufgeheitzt, auseinander geschraubt und die Verstopfung entfernt. Dieses Stück steckte im PTFE Inliner. Das rechte Ende zeigt zum Hotend. Genau da wo die Wullst mit den schwarzen Stellen ist berührt das PTFE den Messingteil. Ich hab nochmal das Innere des PEEK mit PTFEvon ianmcmill - Extruder, Hotends & verschiedene Materialien
Thanks Gordon, you are right about the wires. I have already swept them for 1.75m² wires (from old Iron). The ones in the picture were 0.75mm². Waaay to thin.von ianmcmill - General