Show all posts by user

Re: HIC Prusa I3 marlin configuration question from a newbie - 8 years ago

Here is the firmware for the hictop prusa i3 I have received help from the supplier but you have to ask short precise questions.

by eried - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: HicTop Metal Alum Build Mods and Upgrades - 8 years ago

Quotebob414 I have been "PLAYING" with my HicTop metal Alum printer for about 6 weeks now. I have noted a major problem in the Z axis rod capture on the Z axis motor plates. They wobble badly, I reported the problem to HicTop and designed a solution. I added a thin plate to the outside of the Z axis motor plates, this stabilizes the lower Z rods. I kept the plate thin as to still used the ori

by eried - Reprappers

Re: Printing reprap parts/ help with delamination - 8 years ago

245C was really helpful for adhesion. I am printing at 0.24m now, there is a little strange layers at first but it is totally usable for my new prusa thanks <- more images

by eried - General

Re: Printing reprap parts/ help with delamination - 8 years ago

QuotePaul Wanamaker eried, I wasn't recommending going to .32, was recommending smaller, like .20 and wider extrusion width. But by all means do test! haha yeah I extrapolated the recommendation with the multiplication you wrote. I was using a not optimal .3, and .32 / .28 seems to be better for my 8 mm per turn rod, in terms of inter lineal precision

by eried - General

Re: Printing reprap parts/ help with delamination - 8 years ago

QuotePaul Wanamaker Temp is OK, you are in the range (about 135 to 160 depending on the filament). Speed is fine. Lets concentrate on the layer adhesion issue. Note that you are printing at just about the max sane layer height for that nozzle diameter. .40 * .80 = .32. This is going to limit adhesion unless a wide perimeter is used. Have you tried a lower layer height, say .20? That will

by eried - General

Re: Printing reprap parts/ help with delamination - 8 years ago

QuoteBill Clark I have printed ABS as high as 280c resulting in a significant increase in layer bonding and no noticeable ill effects. Not recommending you bandaid the problem with high temps rather don't be afraid to pour some heat to it. There are a lot of other variables at play here as stated above Hey Bill, have you tested the pieces empirically or it is just a perception about they increas

by eried - General

Re: Printing reprap parts/ help with delamination - 8 years ago

QuotePaul Wanamaker What DC42 said, and also: What nozzle diameter, perimeter width, layer height, print speed? These parameters, including what Shrek asked, together make a big difference in layer adhesion. Make sure your extrusion width is > nozzle diameter x 1.05, (and less than 1.7x nozzle diameter). The wider you make the extrusion width the more it must squish onto the previous laye

by eried - General

Re: Printing reprap parts/ help with delamination - 8 years ago

Quotedc42 You need to enclose your printer in order to print ABS prints more than a few mm high, to increase the temperature of the air around the print and protect it from draughts. You don't necessarily need active heating of the chamber, the heat from the bed may be enough. I have a delta printer, and putting two plastic bags over it was enough for me to get good ABS prints. Keep the electron

by eried - General

Re: Printing reprap parts/ help with delamination - 8 years ago

Hey, It is ABS, 235C/bed 120C, not enclosed

by eried - General

Printing reprap parts/ help with delamination - 8 years ago

Hi, I can't figure out why my pieces are printed so delaminated at the first centimeters of height. Is this a temperature problem? My printer is an old TOM, here are some pictures: Full size images:

by eried - General

Re: Flattening aluminium hbp - 8 years ago

Quoteetfrench A block of wood will probably not be flat enough. A granite tile might be, but check it first. This video has a good explanation of the lapping process: Thanks for the video! Quoteekaggrat if the bend is not so much you can sand it down using a course sandpaper attached to a block. then mount 4 mm glass ( 2mm will bend ) on top of it using silicone thermal pads to take care of

by eried - Reprappers

Flattening aluminium hbp - 8 years ago

Hello, I have an old makerbot thingomatic with a 12x12 cms aluminium bed. My original bed burnout and I bought a chinese replacemente, but now I noticed that the part is sightly bent and the adhesion is quite poor compared to my old bed. How could I straighten the aluminium part? Is a 2 part construction, pcb + aluminium but the old part is not exactly the same to the new like to replace the un

by eried - Reprappers

DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT for THSL-300-8D - 8 years ago

Hello, I am testing some changes in my prusa, but as a beginner I have no clue which value should I set for the THSL-300-8D threaded rods is there a defacto perfect value or should I use the prusa website calculator? My current values are: #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,2560,94.4962144} // default steps per unit for Ultimaker

by eried - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: HicTop Metal Alum Build Mods and Upgrades - 8 years ago

Neat, I straighten the rods but I am still playing around: Does the filament guide you made really works? How did you thighten the spring couplers for the z rods? did you stretched out the coupler first to keep it with tension?

by eried - Reprappers

Re: HicTop Metal Alum Build Mods and Upgrades - 8 years ago

I used a little dot of heat resistant silicone for the thermistor in the nozzle and bed. I hope it works well because in the makerbot they use a thing that goes screwed into the aluminium block (I have an old one) not a cristal thermistor that goes loose inside the block

by eried - Reprappers

Re: boro glass plate - 8 years ago

How fast does your hictop bed heats up? I bought normal window glass for mine but I am replacing the wire first because the wire is heating up badly

by eried - Reprappers

Re: HICTOP prusa i3 Printing weird - 8 years ago

Didn't your motor shafts had a small flat part?

by eried - Reprappers

Re: HICTOP prusa i3 Printing weird - 8 years ago

Where did you get the nozzle replacement for the hictop prusa?

by eried - Reprappers

Re: Can't tune Z height "endstop hit: z" - 8 years ago

No I mean: const bool Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false;

by eried - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Can't tune Z height "endstop hit: z" - 8 years ago

Invert the endstop logic in the firmware configuration.h file

by eried - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Delta heightmap (and more) Simulator - 8 years ago

I made the primitive approach of this for xy printers hahaha:

by eried - General

Re: Enderezando barras roscadas - 8 years ago

Claro, pero las que tengo no son endurecidas, son de un kit chino. Las puedo doblar con la mano y quedan así :/

by eried - RepRap Usergroup - Chile

Re: Bent threaded rods - 8 years ago

Quotetjnamtiw How did you manage to line up all the threads in all the nuts so that it wouldn't destroy your threads on the rod? Good video but music sucked. Much better if you were explaining it. Thanks to the pressure washers

by eried - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Enderezando barras roscadas - 8 years ago

No podría entrar si no estuviera derecha. Intente enderezarla manualmente y comprobando sobre un vidrio pero es muy complejo y me producía muchas vibraciones en la impresora

by eried - RepRap Usergroup - Chile

Re: Bent threaded rods - 8 years ago

My rod straightener worked hahaha!:

by eried - Prusa i3 and variants

Enderezando barras roscadas - 8 years ago

Hola, se me ocurrió una forma de enderezar las barras fácilmente, con un taladro, mdf, golillas y tuercas:

by eried - RepRap Usergroup - Chile

Re: Bent threaded rods - 8 years ago

Quotetjnamtiw Oh, Ok. I thought the rod was already in there and pushed the nuts into that position!!!!!!!!!! hahaha You actually have to bend the rod slightly past the correct position so it springs back to the proper place. It IS an interesting experiment, though. My idea is not that one, the concept I am thinking is that I will insert the rod and it will auto adjust. That's why I left som

by eried - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Bent threaded rods - 8 years ago

Quotetjnamtiw Holy crap! If your rods are bent that bad, it looks like they were torqued or wound up like a spring! The rods aren't bend that bad but in 2 places so I thought on making a block of wood with nuts that will force it to straight. I will insert the rod with a drill after I fix all the nuts real good in 1 direction

by eried - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Bent threaded rods - 8 years ago

Thanks! I'll order these, but I will also try to unbend mine haha!:

by eried - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Threaded rod vs leadscrew print samples? - 8 years ago

Thanks for the tips. My frame bends very little is all 2020 extruded aluminum profiles. But the nozzle danced badly with the bent rod. I got a metric 8 mm milimeter that is not bent at all but I still don't cut it to try it in the printer. However I was just wondering because my previous printer was an old thingomatic and I am just beginning to learn about rods :>

by eried - Reprappers