Quotedc42 QuoteRTurnock I have an ANTEC 450W power supply, never having done this before, watched a couple of youtube videos, opened the case and started cutting wires off. bundled the yellow 12v and black ground for each rail, to get two 12v 18A circuits, that, in theory could power two 3D printers.... Be very careful! I don't know about the Antec in particular, however it may be that the 5Vanby RTurnock - Developers
QuoteAndrewBCN As I mentioned above and in the wiki, "Haswell Ready" ATX PSUs (in other words, most PSUs sold nowadays, in January 2015) do not require balancing load resistors, they are designed to provide good 12V regulation with small or negligible loads on the 5V output. Also note that practically all the ATX PSUs sold in the last 5 years or so derive the 3.3V output from the 5V output, so iby RTurnock - Developers
Update on DIYtechshop hot end. Even though their website is not updated, they told me they will stop selling their own hot end they called "Crayon" and will sell E3D hot ends. Not sure what they are actually doing now. The Crayon they sent me in the Prusa i3 kit, I could not assemble because of manufacturing defect so they sent me a Chinese clone J-head, not sure how long that will last. I have aby RTurnock - General
QuoteXCopter I'm finally sick of my E3d V6 jamming with PLA. Thinking about buying this hotend. What kind of speeds do you get with abs and pla? On my Mini Kossel, expanded horizontals to 350mm: As mentioned the E3D is better at lower speeds and there are many variables to get any hot end to work for DIY, Reprap machines. I have found that with Black PLA from Bumat, I use Cura to slice then priby RTurnock - For Sale
No obligation, vote on Massdrop for Prusa i3 from Makerfarm....HINT:.the 10 inch version has the best price per volume ratio.by RTurnock - Crowdfunding Projects Announcements
Quotemikefiatx19 I assume the Ramps board included is pre-programmed to accept the new auto levelling setup but again I am unsure. Specifically the Mega2560 board, that the Ramps board mounts on top of, is the one with the chip on it that accepts the firmware, called Marlin, that has the auto leveling code. You know to use Arduino IDE to upload the firmware? Quotemikefiatx19 2) Do i need to pby RTurnock - Smart_Rap
QuoteBackEMF I have a few suggestions: QuoteRTurnock Kits for the students to build, test, calibrate, print parts for another printer and then take the printer apart so that the next semester students can do the same thing all over again. Why not let the kids keep the printer and also teach them to work with the printer and CAD stuff etc. The printers keep evolving too, so just print new partsby RTurnock - Smart_Rap
OK, I updated my list of parts, sources and pricing for Smartrap and posted it on Google Drive as a public PDF. Any comments are welcome.by RTurnock - Smart_Rap
Here is my current list of parts and links for sourcing. I would appreciate comments because I hope to share this with the local high school teacher and maybe buy enough to start a printer farm.by RTurnock - Smart_Rap
Hi Smartrap users and developers, I have been building and using 3D printers for about 9 months and have a connection to the local high school teacher who wants to include building and working with 3D printers in his technology class. I have suggested he get Kits for the students to build, test, calibrate, print parts for another printer and then take the printer apart so that the next semesterby RTurnock - Smart_Rap
I saw a video of the Smartrap with the extruder working but the motor was on a table with the shaft pointing straight up and pushing filament through a bowden tube.........is that how you use your extruder?by RTurnock - Smart_Rap
I am following this BOM. Is there a better one or more current one? OK, thanks for the information on the threaded rod.by RTurnock - Smart_Rap
Quoteduranza I'm using 10-24 stainless from home depot. It fits the stock frame good so that is size #10 and 24 threads per inch. That is about 1/8 inch diameter threaded rod but the recommended 5mm rod is 60% longer diameter. I am planning on a 22cm long Z axis rod to get 150mm Z height for printing. Does #10 meet my requirements?by RTurnock - Smart_Rap
QuoteBackEMF Hmm, for some reason the Z axis is screeming especially during bedleveling. The small adjustments during a print are quiet. could this be the stepper drivers need adjusting to control the current going to the motor? Usually the noise from motors, except for vibration - i use dampeners, is from not having the sweet spot adjusted on the stepper drivers.by RTurnock - Smart_Rap
Where do people in USA buy M5 or M6 threaded rod? I have been looking at McMaster Carr and they have only inches in that small a size. I could buy a 1/4inch - 16 TPI or larger, and make changes in firmware to get the right steps per unit. I am interested in a specific hyperlink to a specific product that people have already purchased and that works for you.by RTurnock - Smart_Rap
Ordered plastic parts from MakerCoast. Will order threaded rod and then I already have all the other parts, motors, etc. I hope to make one before September to show at the local high school.by RTurnock - Smart_Rap
What alternatives are there to the Z axis M5 threaded rod? I can order one from McMaster Carr or ? What are people doing to drive the Z axis? Thank you.by RTurnock - Smart_Rap
umdpru, "The 3DR was a fun experiement and started me down the delta platform but I think tha'ts all it will be. I just can't bear the thought of printing an entire third frame to fix the issues with it without knowing if that's all that was wrong with it." Yes, me too. Just finished taking the 3DR Simple apart. Now I have all the parts to build a Smartrap by Smartfriendz. I will cut the 50cby RTurnock - Delta Machines
The original design was for fishing line. Now people are using belts and pulleys. Does the present release support belts and pulleys? v 0.4.9? OK, I will find out. Augh, he just updated the STL files on Github 19 hours ago. This design is moving very fast. OK, thanksby RTurnock - Smart_Rap
QuoteMelT I believe 4.9 is the most recent released version I looked what ubis hot end looks like and it seems a little too long. You probably need to customize your mount so as not to lose too much Z movement because of the extra length. Yes, they list it as 0.4.9 but the same thing as you posted. In the "dev" folder they have 0.4.7, 0.4.8, 0.4.9, 0.4.9.8, 0.5 and 0.6 Weird. I can not tellby RTurnock - Smart_Rap
Hi, New to Smartrap and plan to build one. I have a Printrbot Simple V2 and built a Mini Kossel that I upgraded to 350mm horizontals. I build a 3DR Simple as designed by JohnSL but took it apart to upgrade my Kossel and just this weekend finished taking other parts off to use on the Smartrap build. Questions 1. I downloaded the Github Smartrap Master folder. There is blender and openscad andby RTurnock - Smart_Rap
Quoteumdpru Richard, I found the issue with my 3DR simple, I believe. I gave up on it for a while and built a MK from ultibots that prints fantastically. During that build, I decided to print a "torture test" model on the Cupcake CNC that I had used to print both of the frames on the 3DR simple. Well, after the torture test model was complete, I examined it and found that the square box was outby RTurnock - Delta Machines
Quotedisneytoy QuoteRTurnock @disneytoy Yes,the motors stop and thehot end drops, all the time, every time, yet this is not important to the results. when printing the motors are always "on" when you are leveling the print plane with the nozzle the motors should always be "on" and the nozzle "HOT" because it gets longer/closer to the print bed when hot. look on Youtube for Jay Couture videos aby RTurnock - Delta Machines
@disneytoy Yes,the motors stop and thehot end drops, all the time, every time, yet this is not important to the results. when printing the motors are always "on" when you are leveling the print plane with the nozzle the motors should always be "on" and the nozzle "HOT" because it gets longer/closer to the print bed when hot. look on Youtube for Jay Couture videos about calibratin and levelingby RTurnock - Delta Machines
Your experience and mine run in parallel paths. Yesterday I took the Airtripper Extruder off my Mini Kossel and replaced it with the Greg's Wade Extruder off my 3DR. Earlier I had bought a Ubis hotend to replace the E3D. Last night it finally worked reliably for a 5mm pyramid test print. The 3DR Ubis hot end will replace the Ubis on my Simple that had a broken thermistor that I replaced but isby RTurnock - Delta Machines
Yes, I built a Mini Kossel before I built the 3DR and really liked it, except for the E3D hot end was very sensitive and so I printed another effector assembly from the 3DR Simple and bought a Ubis hot end from Prinrbot. Then I changed the 240mm horizontals to 350mm and made 340mm diagonal rods. Ready to test it out tomorrow and try printing. I want to print parts to build an Eggbot and the Cyboby RTurnock - Delta Machines
Wow, you have four 3D printers! And they are all different! Yes, the Delta design is different in terms of movement, calibration, leveling, alignment. Wish I could see what you have going on, but I am not any help with hands on things from this distance. My 3DR is really stiff. The 2020 extrusions plus the two smooth rods on each column work well and they fit very tight into the plastic frame paby RTurnock - Delta Machines
Oh, I see now. What you need to do is lower in firmware your MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS. This gives you the flexibility in the values of M666 and delta radius to get the print plane more level. I have to keep reminding myself that physical values are what they are. The values in the firmware are different in order to get a level print plane, even though the glass build surface is flat and level.by RTurnock - Delta Machines
1. One of the M666 endstop adjustments might be more than the other two when the physical endstop is tightened down at a different height. I would not worry about it because the end result you want is a flat build plane and you can get that with M666, and adjusting delta radius, plus one other adjustment below. The M666 value gets you close to a flat plane. Then adjusting delta radius makes thby RTurnock - Delta Machines
Great, glad it's working for you.by RTurnock - Delta Machines