A little late to the party but I was experiencing a similar problem. In my case it was nozzle drag from a jenky nozzle. The bad nozzle was plowing the fresh plastic creating the ripples. Initially it was only happening in the y direction when printing single wall cubes. When I rotated the part 45 degrees the pattern was consistent on all 4 walls.by stabbs - General
Quoteajayre "What specific Slic3r settings are you using for: - tool change - nozzle wiping - nozzle priming Thanks, Andy"] I use T0, T1, T2, and T3 for tool change. During a print I have a 4mm retract with a .4mm hop. When I change tools I use an 18mm retract- so while the filament are idling they are retracted 18mm. Retract speed is 65mm/sec. I get a very small amount of ooze from the iby stabbs - Crowdfunding Projects Announcements
Hey everybody- For the past 2 years I've been developing quad- extruder called Multistruder. Its compact and weighs 2 lbs. It only requires one stepper motor and one hot end, so it will work with most electronics. And it works really well with Slic3r and Marlin. The prints in the image above are 4 color PLA. They are printed at .15mm layer height, 175C, 50mm/sec perimeter 55mm/secby stabbs - Crowdfunding Projects Announcements
Hey Everybody- For the last 2 years I've been developing Multistruder- a compact, lightweight and low-cost quad-extruder. Multistruder is available as a pre-order for Mendel Prusa i1, i2, and i3 and the Mendel Max. Please check out my Kickstarter campaign: Multistruder Kickstarter Thanks!by stabbs - Crowdfunding Projects Announcements
Here's a picture of a print with a similar problem. My esteps were off by around 100.by stabbs - Printing
Your still over extruded. What are your current esteps? Print about 10 layers and drop your esteps by 10% using eeprom. Let it go about 10 more layers and drop again. Keep doing this until you start getting spotty deposition. You may have to drop it down quite a bit. Use the estep value that looks the best. Your parts look very nice dimensionally. If you do have an issue with your z axiby stabbs - Printing
Sorry for the repost and typos, I am posting from my phoneby stabbs - Printing
Measuring the filament going in is only a loose estep calibration. You have to fine tune your estrps further. I have a pile of parts that look like your pictures- but the good news is you're almost there. Did you print a single wall empty cube and measure the wall thickness with calipers? The wall thickness should match the thickness specified in your slicer program. If you don't have caliby stabbs - Printing
Your e-steps are too high. Basically your extruding to much plastic and it smooshes outward causing the banding. Print a few cubes, lowering your esteps 10% at a time until the banding disappears. I did see that you calibrated your esteps based on the amount of plastic feeding into the extruder. This method is good for getting your esteps in ballpark but is not a great measure of the plasticby stabbs - Printing
Quoteswoozle I would not be surprised if some paper towels have small amounts of surfactants applied to speed wetting and water absorption. These may interfere with adhesion. I have not had much luck with cleaning alone using paper towels either and it could be the brand I use. But I'm very happy with glue stick so haven't had reason to investigate more. I hadn't heard of people using glue sticby stabbs - General
QuoteA2 Would acid etching the glass substrate be an improvement, and has this been talked about before? If the plastic does adhere well, it might be very difficult to remove. I would think that would help prevent the edges from lifting, or warping. One problem comes to mind, if the plastic grips the glass tenaciously it might encourage spalling due to the object shrinking. I have read manyby stabbs - General
Quoteayouden stabbs, are you using a heated bed? or is the glass at room temp? Thanks I use a heated bed. I print PLA first layer at 55 degrees and drop it down to 46-50 for the remainder of the printby stabbs - General
Quotejamesdanielv I think that the layer you place needs to be very thin to work. thick layers will liley cause parts to warp because you are relying on the adhesion material for strength and it is flexible. very thin layers with excess wiped off likely have very little elastic properties and all the properties of material bonded to which is glass. I've had better luck wiping acrylic on with papby stabbs - General
I'd like to share how I got PLA to stick to the glass on my heated bed. I was experimenting with different cleaners and nothing was working. I tried white vineger, mineral spirits, nail polish remover, straight acetone, windex, lemon, running the plate through the dishwasher, and scrubbing with a sponge and soap. No matter what I tried the parts refused to stick. After much frustration I wasby stabbs - General
I think I've narrowed down my problem. I control my second extruder off of an uno using i2c. I am calling for a tool change before marlin does it's look ahead. I'll post over in the marlin section for help there.by stabbs - Slic3r
I am having a hard time getting slic3r to prime the 2nd nozzle properly. Retract length = 4 Extra length on restart = 1 Slic3r, Printer setting, "Retraction when tool is disabled", Length = 10 Extra lenght on restart = 1 So when I start I have the 2nd extruder retracted 10mm to prevent oozing. But Slic3r assumes the filament is packed all the way into the nozzle. So when the 2nd extruder isby stabbs - Slic3r
This just happened to me last night. Ther is12V running to the resistor but it isn't heating up. I re-wired my hot end and connected it directly to a 12V line to test and it heated up fine. I'm getting no volts on the grey wire on pin 1. Were you able to fix this on your board, Rooski?by stabbs - General
I am still having trouble with this. I selected the board above which cleared up the errors when I compile, but now the upload hangs. I can upload fine using 0018, but 1.0.1 never completes. Any ideas?by stabbs - Firmware - mainstream and related support
So it turns out Slicer was working perfectly well all along. I was extruding fine in the air but the added back pressure when printing close to the print bed was causing slipping and a leak in the nozzle. Everything has been rebuilt and is working great now. Thanks so much for all of the help you guys provide on this forum. I am really psyched to be printing nowby stabbs - Slic3r
; generated by Slic3r 0.9.1 on 2012-08-14 at 20:58:32 ; layer_height = 0.4 ; perimeters = 3 ; solid_layers = 3 ; fill_density = 0.4 ; perimeter_speed = 30 ; infill_speed = 30 ; travel_speed = 130 ; scale = 1 ; nozzle_diameter = 0.5 ; filament_diameter = 2.8 ; extrusion_multiplier = .2 ; single wall width = 0.53mm ; first layer single wall width = 0.80mm M104 S190 ; set temperature G28 ; home alby stabbs - Slic3r
Thanks for all the replies- been busy the last few nights but I found some time tonight to experiment. I disconnected my hot end from the drive so the filament is uninhibited. Quotenophead What happens if you type G1E1F200 in Pronterface? Does it feed 1mm or 10mm into the extruder? It is feeding 1mm. I had to lower the speed though from F200 to F30. My moter whines and stalls at F200. Quoby stabbs - Slic3r
QuoteTraumflug Do you guys use an RepRap-enriched library updated for Arduino 1.0/1.0.1? Gen7 Arduino IDE Support 2.0 (click on "view raw") is one and should work with other electronics/firmwares, too. I added Gen7 to my arduino/hardware directory but it did not fix the compile errors. I tried selecting some of the gen7 boards but it tells me to select Sanguino.by stabbs - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I am having a similar problem explained more here, but I have to set the extrusion multiplier to .1. I am using a high-torque extruder so I had to set my E-steps to 6400. I wonder if the higher E-steps value is exaggerating the problems others on this thread are experiencing.by stabbs - Slic3r
QuotePolygonhell The only other thing I can think of that would throw it off by a lot is if it was set to inches not mm either during calibration or during the print, look at the GCode you are running and make sure there is a G21 near the top and no G20. Type G21 into pronterface then check it's extruding/retracting the correct amount. But again that would be off by 25x not the 10 you seem to bby stabbs - Slic3r
Turns out Marlin wont compile on the newer versions of Arduino. I used Arduino 0018 from the older software packs on mendel-parts.com and it compiled without any errors.by stabbs - Firmware - mainstream and related support
But it is correctly calibrated in pronterface- I am getting the correct measured amount when I manually extrude. It's when I print gcode that my extruder is running way too fast. Tonight I'll try setting the extrusion multiplier to .1 to compensate but from what I have read this will lower the quality of the print.by stabbs - Slic3r
Sorry if this sounds confusting- My brains are so scrambled right now trying to get this to work the past 2 days. According to this thread I can adjust the extrusion multipler in slic3r to compensate- but this can effect build quality. I had calibrated my e-steps in pronterface but maybe I should somehow calibrate it using slic3r?? Could somebody also please explain why extrusion speed is expby stabbs - Slic3r
I had the same problem last night trying to update my Gen6 board.by stabbs - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I'm trying to upgrade my gen6, mendel, marlin to Slic3r/pronterface from skeinforge/repsnapper. I calibrated my extruder so using the slicer is nicer tutorial. I arrived at 6400 steps/mm and the measured amount of filament matches the extrusion length in Pronterface. The problem is when I try to print a part generated in Slic3r, the extruder is moving way too fast causing jams. The extruderby stabbs - Slic3r
JakAtak I am getting the same list of errors. How did you, er your girlfriend resolve this?by stabbs - RepRap Host