Quotevegasloki Once you get the hang of sourcing overseas you'll find it easy. Here's a small trading company on Alibaba that's a good place to start. I know nothing about them and looked them up when I was making an order from another vendor. A good way to start is by see who has similar items and contacting them about what you want. The messaging software translates fairly well and some plby RP Iron Man - General
Quotevegasloki You asked where to get them. It's up to you to decide how. Lol, I just wish there was an easier way... Then again, another option may be a higher temperature thermistor. The PICO guys on Kickstarter are now offering a 500C thermistor as an add on for their hot end. This would be much easier to support in place of a thermocouple but I have not heard anything about the specs of thby RP Iron Man - General
Quote3DogNate I've got a Panucatt Azteeg X3 controller with the expansion board. It supports thermocouples, but there's zero documentation and my requests for info on implementation and how to set it up in firmware have gone unanswered... I'm looking for someone with some info on how to implement. You should probably start a thread about this as there are probably other people who have figure iby RP Iron Man - General
Quotevegasloki QuoteRP Iron Man EDIT: It looks like the Ultimaker thermocouple also uses an M3 thread. I just need to find out where they source their thermocouples... Shenzhen. Any sort of electronics parts you could every need or want can be found in the markets there at prices much better than Alibaba or Taobao. I agree with Greg. I am not sure sure if you are talking about the the City orby RP Iron Man - General
Ok guys, Earlier on people were having some difficulty visualizing the various zone lengths in the pictures in my original post. I decided to annotate them to illustrate this concept. Here are the pics: CZ = "Cold-Zone" Length TZ = "Transition-Zone" Length MZ = "Melt-Zone" Length TP = Thermistor Position Just let me know if anything is still unclear Ericby RP Iron Man - General
Quotebstott Thermistor installation suggestion I like your thermistor installation, Brian. It is nice and simple I'll consider it. Quotebstott ---- My little hack was always intended to be active - there was not a passive to it. Almost all is good. Hey, you seen anything like this? My hot end nozzle split. Know why? Ha, Ha... The same reason my riser broke. Some claimed better design --by RP Iron Man - General
Quotegmh39 If you do offer the ability to switch between a thermocouple and thermistor, I think you should include both parts with the hotend. Yes, it increases cost, but if your goal is adjustability I think it is necessary. That's what I would like to do, but the thing is that some people would rather not have not pay for the thermocouple if they are not going to go over 300C. The thermocouby RP Iron Man - General
Ok, Brian. I think you misunderstood my response. FYI I assure you that I have read through your entire post and I do understand everything that you said. My response was NOT meant to "bully" you at all. Maybe I used too much ALL CAPS and bold type but this was just to bring your attention to certain point, NOT to attack you. I was not raging at you while I wrote that post I can be honest andby RP Iron Man - General
QuoteuGen One thing I am rather confused about is that about every all-metal hot end comes with a thermistor as default. This doesn't make much sense to me since the purpose of these hot ends is the higher temperature capability and while E3D also has thermocouples on stock, these are PTFE-coated, again limiting the maximum working temperature to 260°C. So, what I would absolutely love to see isby RP Iron Man - General
QuoteNewKidOnTheBlock Thanks, Eric. I saw the pictures of their prints on their website also. I'm really curious to hear about people's personal experience with the PICO hotend. They make it sound perfect and flawless... Would like to get more feed back from people that have experienced the PICO to see if it's worth the money. Apparently RichRap (Richard Horne) was one of the Testers but I couby RP Iron Man - General
Quotebstott Screw Thermistor? Just a quickie --- I've seen screw mount thermistors. Here's a picture. Would you be able to drill a set screw center and pass through the thermistor leads? Then silicone seal the device into the head? Hand tight? Oh, Eric --- I'm kinda beat today --- I'll respond to your hurt feelings. I know you are putting in effort - we all do. And I like the look. It is a jewby RP Iron Man - General
QuoteNewPerfection QuoteRP Iron ManUnfortunately, my hardware supplier does not carry M3x3 button head screws. These are actually pretty hard to find so I will probably have to get these from overseas Are you located in the US? If so: or ($0.04 each or $0.03 each) If you are concerned about looks, another option is to countersink the M3 hole and use a flat head screw: or ($0.06 each or $0.by RP Iron Man - General
QuoteNewPerfection QuoteRP Iron ManIf anyone notices a major problem with this design please let me know. The issue I see is that the set-screw cannot be tightened to stay in place, so would require a thread locking compound to keep it from working loose. Also, I could see many people not reading directions properly and screwing in the set-screw too far and shearing the thermistor leads. A possby RP Iron Man - General
QuoteNewPerfection QuoteRP Iron Mana set screw secures the thermistor in the heater block and eliminates the possibility of the thermistor falling out. I'm having trouble visualizing how this would work without the set screw shearing the thermistor leads or damaging the thermistor itself. Have you tried this solution in practice? Maybe I'm thinking about it wrong and it works just fine. Ok, Iby RP Iron Man - General
Hey guys, Over the last few days I have been making some last minute improvements to the design. I have recently made some slight adjustments to the heater block in order to improve a few details of the design. I think the most important improvement is that the thermistor will no longer be secured to the heater block by Kapton Tape! Wrapping Kapton Tape around the heater block is a messy, unrby RP Iron Man - General
Quotejameghino The Argento hotend is 2 years old and the current version is 4 and as you can see the design is quite similar. I've been through many battles against filament types, transition zone, temperatures, and much more. If you need some feedback on the design or even machining, let me know. Regards from Argentina Javier Thanks for sharing this Javier Do you have any problems printing Pby RP Iron Man - General
Haha! Brian, your post is hilarious Thanks for sharing your experience. What is the CFM rating of the fan you are using to cool the heat sink? Nice work Ericby RP Iron Man - General
Quotebstott Wow! Looks Good! Almost like mine! ;-) I built my new hot end from bits two weeks ago - End of Feb. 2014 - Motivated from a slipped out thermistor having created a Hot, Bubbling, Smoking, PEEK Melt Down!!!! Looking forward to see the Prometheus Indiegogo! Brian Pittsburgh, PA Thanks! I'd really like to see your hot end Ericby RP Iron Man - General
Quotetmorris9 I have a friend that is an artist and she saw a hinged butterfly that I printed in ABS She works with polymer clay and she wanted to know if she could fill the cavities with polymer clay and then bake it. The baking would be at 135c for 1 hour. This is above the glass transition point of ABS but it takes another 100c to print it (melt) so I am trying to estimate if it would hold uby RP Iron Man - General
Quotegmh39 Just a heads up, you cant do 100% infill with honeycomb. Oh yeah, forgot to mention that I have learned this the hard way many times over. There have been times when I am switching from honeycomb to solid infill and I forget the switch to rectilinear style infill. I spend 10 minutes rebooting slic3er and checking all of my settings trying to understand why it won't slice I feelby RP Iron Man - Printing
QuoteOhmarinus Okay, that sounds pretty good. But, on the site of digikey it says the resistor is 3W? How do you get to 30W? Oh, and I can't find a seller besides digikey. I am in Europe and Digikey rates me around 55 dollars for postage.. :O Oh god...that's insane! For me shipping from digikey is an $8 flat fee but I live in Canada. I didn't think it would be so expensive for you. Since thby RP Iron Man - General
Quoteayouden Looks like increasing the infill is the way to go, is there a good infill to use other than the default rectilinear? Thanks In this case rectilinear infill may be the way to go since it creates even spacing of gaps in the infill. However, rectilinear infill involves "weaving" layers together (you are essentially bridging every layer) so you may have problems with the infill messingby RP Iron Man - Printing
QuoteOhmarinus QuoteRP Iron Man Could be a fluke heater cartridge. Most heater cartridges come from China and many of them have incorrect specifications. I would just save yourself the trouble and replace it with a through hole resistor heater from DigiKey. EDIT: a 4.7ohm through hole resistor heater will provide ~30W at 12V which should be more than enough. I have used this one from digikey aby RP Iron Man - General
Quoteayouden I currently use 3 perimeters, upping that to 6-10, would that solve it if i kept the infill the same? As jamesdanielv stated above, that may not fix the entire problem. On the inner most perimeter you will have some bridging so you will have to either increase infill, perimeter width, or extrusion temp (though I am not sure if a higher printing temp will be enough to solve the problby RP Iron Man - Printing
Quoteayouden okay, what about it's little leg poking up, that went really bad. It looks like the same issue related to overhangs. If the angle is too steep and the infill too sparse you could have the same type of problem. I'd try 100% infill as that should theoretically solve all of your problems. Ericby RP Iron Man - Printing
Quoteayouden I tried to print the cute octo today with a 0.05mm layer height. As you can see, the majority of the print is perfect. However, the waving leg and the top is very bad! does anyone have any tips on how to fix this? I am using 1.75mm white ABS Thanks It's because at 50 microns the filament traces you are laying down are very very thin so they break if you do not print directly onby RP Iron Man - Printing
Quotejaak lab it's a magma hotend 40W i usually use ABS Could be a fluke heater cartridge. Most heater cartridges come from China and many of them have incorrect specifications. I would just save yourself the trouble and replace it with a through hole resistor heater from DigiKey. EDIT: a 4.7ohm through hole resistor heater will provide ~30W at 12V which should be more than enough. I have useby RP Iron Man - General
Quotekfootball15 Sometimes after I use my printer for a while, my electronics simply won't heat up my hotend. I'll let it rest for a while and it'll work fine again. Is this some kind of safety feature? Can I turn it off? I have had similar problem before. It may be caused by a poor solder connection between the MOSFETs and the RAMPS board. You should check the board to make sure all the connectby RP Iron Man - General
QuoteNewKidOnTheBlock Any new reviews, pictures of prints, etc regarding the PICO hotend? There were no pictures or videos posted on the campaign page, but I found some pictures here on their website. Ericby RP Iron Man - General
Quoteregpye Try using a cheap WebCam for taking the video. They are light, small and readily available. I bought a few for this purpose on ebay and they cost less than $10 each. That seems like a good idea for filming prints as it could be mounted to the carriage. How is the video quality? Quoteregpye I am using a similar design, but not all metal. To adjust the zones I also use the adjustmentby RP Iron Man - General