@A2 Oops, I didn't see the annotated picture that you included in your post. Ok, in your diagram, BOTH of the arrows should say CONDUCT. The hex nut in contact with the heat sink needs to dissipate heat that is transferred through the SS nozzle and the hex nut in contact with the heater block is actually a part of the MZ ("melt-zone") so that needs to conduct heat as well. The length of uncoveby RP Iron Man - General
QuoteA2 This doesn't make sense to me, have you conducted a thermal analysis of the heat flux from the barrel, into the nut, to the heat sink? Thermal analysis is not very accurate for these types of complex scenarios. I think we discussed this in the PICO hot end thread. There are too many factors (ie. thermal radiation, air flow turbulence, etc..) that are not taken into account with computerby RP Iron Man - General
Quotewaitaki I hope this thread is not going to be another drawn out E3D affair.. Haha! I hope it doesn't put you to sleep... While the E3D hot end thread did go off topic many times and was the battleground of some petty arguments there were still a lot of interesting ideas that were discussed in that thread. I hoping to recreate the interesting discussion WITHOUT the off topic posts and pettyby RP Iron Man - General
QuoteuGen Can confirm: 0.3mm layer height with 0.4mm nozzle is possible and looking good (I am using an E3D v4.1) From what I can see, you are using standard nut sizes. How about using half nuts for finer adjustability? Or are they too costly? One thing I am not too sure about is the nut below the heatsink. Judging purely from intuition, I guess that having a cooling fin in its place would constby RP Iron Man - General
QuoteSublime On a side note about the license. I truly believe an NC license hurts your sales. If you look at RAMPS vs. Gen7 you will notice the one with the NC gets very little attention and you do not find it being recommended for any reason other than you can make it yourself. I can't recall ever reading "you should buy a gen7 board" only "you could make a gen7 board". This is nothing againstby RP Iron Man - General
QuoteNewPerfection I had this thread reported for the following reason: QuoteThis is an Indiegogo campaign promotion, it should be moved to "Crowdfunding Projects Announcements". For now I am going to leave this thread here, since this thread is asking for advice and critiques on a product that hasn't yet been placed on a crowd funding site. A more appropriate place may be the Plastic Extruderby RP Iron Man - General
QuoteOhmarinus I think your hotend is very interesting. Not going to criticize anything, I see others do that enough already so I hope you take it as constructive criticism and maybe one day I'll be able to order your hotend! I would like a 1.75mm version please, and one that prints PLA well, this is mandatory! I like to print my 1.75mm PLA with a 0.5mm nozzle. If you are able to provide me wiby RP Iron Man - General
QuoteA2 Some one might argue that the extrudate behavior is dictated by the orifice land length, orifice diameter, temperature, and extrusion rate. I forgot to mention that I was also very careful about designing the Orifice length and Orifice landing diameter of the nozzle. If you look at the technical drawings, I designed the orifice length to be 1mm (for a 0.4mm diameter orifice) as this hasby RP Iron Man - General
Ok, I will try to answer the rest of the questions now: QuoteA2 Are you removing (honing) or reshaping (burnishing) the metal to achieve a near mirror finish on the barrel? Removing vs. Reshaping: Burnishing: reshapes the peaks of the tooling marks into the trough. Polishing: reshapes or removes material, typically the finish of the surface is dictated by the size of the medium. Honing: removesby RP Iron Man - General
@A2 First of all, thank you very much for taking the time to write this critique. I will try to answer every one of your statements. Maybe not all in this one post, but I will work my way through them. QuoteA2 Your new business is going to receive a lot of reviews. Employ some one with a degree in English, is a native English speaker, and has experience editing advertising copy. I am not sureby RP Iron Man - General
Quotetechshop ...The stainless steel nozzle could lead to some problems, as it did with the Prusa hot end... I overlooked this before so I should respond to it now. The reason the Prusa MKI has so many issues was not actually a particular result of the SS nozzle, but rather a consequence of the completely uncontrolled "transition-zone". If you look at the Prusa MKI design, you will see that theby RP Iron Man - General
Quotetechshop I apreciate the need for protecting your intellectual property, but the heat sink looks to be about 25mm long. Is the transition in the middle, the top, or the bottom? I don't know if this can be considered an "All Metal Hot End." The PTFE liner is a critical part. In this design, the PTFE liner is not subjected to high temperatures so it is not a problem. If you look at the firsby RP Iron Man - General
Quotecfy7 Looks pretty neat. What is the cost going to be? Not exactly sure yet as I am still sorting out some pricing details. I am trying to make this hot end as affordable as I reasonably can so that it can be accessible rather than a luxury. I will get back to you as soon as I have sorted this out. QuoteNewPerfection First off, and I want to get this out of the way because someone will inby RP Iron Man - General
Hey Guys! I am super excited to finally post this! Over the past several months I have been working on developing a unique hot end design that I think will encourage significant innovation within RepRap. In short, the Prometheus Hot End is a customizable all-metal hot end that will allow users to configure the “melt-zone” length, “transition-zone” length, and thermistor position according to tby RP Iron Man - General
What printer setup do you have? Prusa I2? Prusa I3? If you are using threaded rod for the z axis, calibration should not be necessary. You just plug in the numbers. My steps per mm for z axis are 3200/1.25 because I am using M8 threaded rod and standard 1.8 degree steppers with 1/16th microstepping. Also, if you are hearing a sqealing sound, you should add lubricant to the threaded rod so that iby RP Iron Man - General
QuoteNewKidOnTheBlock Eric: What would be the proper differential for a geared-stepper motor if it is to be applied to a bowden-style extruder? Would NEMA11's still be enough or would 14's or maybe even 17's be better? Distance from the filament extruder to the actual hot-end would be about 4.5' - 5' long. Hey New, I assume that you plan on using this bowden extruder on the huge BerryBot printeby RP Iron Man - General
QuoteNewKidOnTheBlock Vinny: Where did you purchase your magnets from (they look super strong), and with regards to geare- stepper motors, does a bigger differential difference mean better for filament extruder (ie, 10:1 > 5:1)? There is a trade off between torque and speed. I think vinny is talking about the 5:1 geared Nema 11 steppers that Werner uses for his direct drive 1.75mm extruder.by RP Iron Man - General
QuoteNewKidOnTheBlock Wayne: Thanks for answering my question. Eric: Not everyone has access to expensive software and knows how to 3D model, and despite all that great things are still made by those people. I'm not arguing that learning how to utilize software to assist in 3D modeling isn't a good thing, I'm simply stating that believing that you absolutely must know how to 3D model via softwby RP Iron Man - General
QuoteRad Racer It's a winter wonderland! The mid-west has been getting pounded this winter, lots of cold and snow. We haven't seen this since the 80's....so much for that global warming theory For most the winter we have been just walking through the snow to get to the shop, after the snow yesterday it just got too deep so we gave the snow blower a bit of a workout. Sure makes for a nice walkby RP Iron Man - General
QuoteNewKidOnTheBlock I appreciate your honesty, Eric. I'm currently learning freecad and sketch. Any other good programs you would recommend I check out? Open SCAD is a popular free CAD program, though I have never used it so I can't comment on how good it is. I actually use AutoDesk Inventor which (like Solidworks) is a very powerful, albeit expensive, 3d modelling software. Since this softwby RP Iron Man - General
QuoteNewKidOnTheBlock garylucas: Are you actually trying to say that I need to know how to use 3D model software first before I can build a 3D printer and start printing stuff? That's like saying I need to know how to write code before I can put together a computer tower LOL. Anyway, back to business. Rad Racer: How did you determine the proper distance from the edge of the platen to the sideby RP Iron Man - General
Quotew.harris87 Does anyone know if there are any implications to using an E3D v5 inside a heated chamber?; Will the cooling fan still be able to do its job if its blowing warm air onto the cooling fins, or do I need to look at some ducting which would feed cooler air from outside the build chamber? Cheers, Will The increased air temp will only be an issue if you are printing PLA as it has a vby RP Iron Man - General
Try this for ABS printing: - Glass bed with glue stick applied in a smooth layer (Elmer's, UHU, etc... ) You should apply a few layers and allow the glue to dry for about 1 minute in between layers. - First layer bed temp: 120C - Other layers: 90C - No brim required and I get no warping with ABS PS: I also wrap my printer in a clear garbage bag to increase the chamber temp. It helps a little.by RP Iron Man - Reprappers
OP's method works perfectly I actually have been using Elmer's glue stick on heated glass for printing ABS and PC for a long time and it works great. No warping! It works for Nylon as well, but I needed a brim to combat the increased warping. BTW, I use a bed temp of about 50C which is just at the glass transition temp of Nylon 618, though I could probably drop the bed temp another 10C withouby RP Iron Man - General
QuoteAlexBorro Plexus, what nozzle are you using?? Bear in mind you need a larger nozzle for TGlase, like 0.7mm. It is quite difficult to extrude and generates high pressures. Forget about 0.4mm or thinner nozzles. But I could print it with no problem at all. What issues are you facing?? Alex. I'll second that. I tried 0.4mm nozzle and I could only get it to work with 1.75mm filament. 3mm filaby RP Iron Man - General
@cope413 What size nozzle orifice diameter are you using to print your T-Glase parts? On their website, Taulman recommends 0.5mm to 1mm nozzle orifices for best results. I am experimenting using a 0.4mm orifice and 3mm filament and I find that it requires A LOT of force to extrude. I am currently printing at: 225C 0.4 layer height 0.6 layer width 12mm/s Thanks in advance Ericby RP Iron Man - General
Quotejamesdanielv if anything give him thumbs up in youtube, and thank him for his videos. they are well produced, edited, and professional. I'd actually like to see more videos!! thanks Werner!! Me too More videos, Werner! You have so much to teach us! Ericby RP Iron Man - General
Quoteplexus Either way you have to torque it together. using the current design, the filament entry of the nozzle butts up against the heat break tube. the nozzle is made of brass and the heat break is stainless. if you over torque then you risk deforming the brass nozzle. if the design of the heat block separated the nozzle from the break as I mentioned, then both components would not depend onby RP Iron Man - General
QuoteRad Racer Sorry guys....I don't have the STL files, Warner sent me the direct drive assembly for my machine. The stepper can be purchased at www.stepperonline.com. Thanks a lot for the link BTW, do you use the 27:1 geared Nema11 stepper? Do you know if Werner posts his STLs anywhere that is accessible (Thingiverse?). In one of his videos he designed an interesting printed worm gear extruby RP Iron Man - General
Quotemaralb great project I follow with great interest where you can find. exstruder STL Warner Berry??? I am also interested in the STL files for your direct drive extruder. I was wondering where you purchased the geared Nema11 stepper motors from? Ericby RP Iron Man - General