QuoteSanjayM Regarding the E3D and thermal analysis of CAD - I've done a fair bit of this stuff a long time ago outside of the scope of 3D printing, and I did run plenty of analysis in the design/verification stages. However I am also aware of when these types of techniques fail to produce useful results - this is very much one of them. The real design, analysis and calculation were done on a whby RP Iron Man - General
QuoteYvan Meh, not much of a surprise there, but I didn't know that. Will not be so gulible next time! Yvan, you shouldn't blame yourself. I am sure that the B3 guys have also done lots of empirical testing as well. I assume they included the thermal imaging as a way to establish some professional credibility with the Kickstarter crowd. While most people will be impressed by the fancy CAD simuby RP Iron Man - General
QuoteFloyd I just use a clean glass bed heated to 110c and right before the print I put a thin layer of the purple elmers glue stick down and it holds great! Clean up is just warm water and wipe it off, no scrubbing or anything. Normally I can get 5-8 prints before I build up enough glue to need cleaning. Yeah, me too. Elmer's glue works so well! The parts also pop off the bed by themselves onceby RP Iron Man - Reprappers
Quotebigfilsing Thoughts As the core is off center from the fins surely the cooling will cause the barrel to distort/bend due to unequal thermal expansion. Since it is machined from SS, I think the unequal thermal expansion will be negligible. Ericby RP Iron Man - General
QuoteFrans@France Eric, thanks for the help, much appreciated! Impossible to push the filament down by hand. It will hit the bottom of the hotend end that's it. I got the temp up to 300 and still no go! The filament will slide into the bore with minor (not consistent) resistance. On retract it will most of the time show a double melted tip of the filament with a long (very long) wisker. So wiskby RP Iron Man - General
Quotewaitaki Is there a 'thermal simulation' of the E3D to compare? There is no thermal simulation. BTW, shortly after Sanjay released the E3D hot end, he mentioned that he would try to come up with a SolidWorks FEA thermal simulation of the heat transfer. He said that the results were not very accurate/useful because the SolidWorks simulation cannot simulate the complex dynamics very well beby RP Iron Man - General
QuoteFrans@France metric prusa i3, wade extruder, tried every extruder spring tension that was possible. eats filament - printing at 220 - filament diameter is a bit weird! on one side very stable 2.97 but on it's other side it's flatter as flat as 2.91! internal bore seems to be 3.05 Ok, if your measurements are correct, your filament should be able to pass through the 3.05mm internal bore. Iby RP Iron Man - General
Quoteiquizzle Ah ok. Now I think we're getting somewhere. You should always measure the filament as it is extruded to get that number exactly correct. Here is what you do: 1. Leave that number as-is. 2. Take a permanent marker and make a dot on your filament a couple inches away from the extruder. 3. Measure exactly how far that mark is from the top of the extruder. 4. Open pronterface and extrby RP Iron Man - General
I didn't think of that. Now that you mention it, that makes a lot of sense! Thanks for clearing that up, Yvan Ericby RP Iron Man - General
QuoteFrans@France replaced the delivered fan with a larger one and still no luck at all! (ABS) That's odd, ABS is usually the easiest plastic to print with using an all-metal hot end as it does not require a super short thermal transition zone like PLA. It seems like you definitely have enough active cooling so the problem must be something else... Could you post your printing specs for me? -by RP Iron Man - General
QuoteSpyrakos Hello my friends. I think this is a big step in metal printing. What do you think? Wow! That looks incredible! It seems MUCH more manageable than hot metal extrusion. I just wish they would give more info about their metal clay mixture. Ericby RP Iron Man - Developers
Quotejzatopa Quotegreenman100 Quotejzatopa I am very interested in the PICO hotend, I just wish they would give more info about the melt zone. Does anyone know if there are beta testers out there that have reviewed it? There are - they're under NDA and not allowed to post openly. E3D all the way, in my opinion. If the beta testers are having positive response B3 should be having them share thby RP Iron Man - General
Haha! You were misbehaving, I thought you needed some schooling Ericby RP Iron Man - General
That's a pretty good reaction. I can respect that too. I have seen your posts in threads all over the forum and I think people find that you are a little too extreme/unfair in your posts. I think if you took a more diplomatic approach people would have much more respect and would be more willing to listen to what you have to say. From what I've seen, you seem to have a fair bit of useful knowlby RP Iron Man - General
I appreciate your humor on some level, but I think you should be a little more diplomatic when you are making fun of people. First of all, don't generalize. I did not buy the Prusanozzle MKI because I did not like the design (it was also rather expensive). Myself along with others on this forum noticed the lack of thermal control in the design and anticipated problems, of which there were many..by RP Iron Man - General
Quoteohioplastics LOLOLOLOLOLOLOL Troll? Please explain yourself. Ericby RP Iron Man - General
QuoteYvan Life? I think it does that to everyone! I'm curious so see how the Pico hot end will do in the real world. The Pico is also shown at 260°C, well above typical. I think it is at the oposite end of the Prusa design, where the thermal break is not effective enough(too short), and too much heat is soaking up to the aluminium heat sink. The nylon printer is on pause, I've been building aby RP Iron Man - General
Quotetjb1 Up and printing again, no damage from what I can see. The insulation on one of the thermistor wires was melted. Not sure if the thermistor failed and let the temp run up and do it or if it shorted to the heater block causing the failure. Still doesn't change the fact that the resistor is only rated for 300c. Yeah, NTC thermistors get less accurate as the temp increases and nobody haby RP Iron Man - General
QuoteYvan Hey Eric, how are your projects going? The Pico guys on Kickstarter have a nice thermal map of their hot end. In my mind is shows how things should be, heat flow wise. For that general style or layout anyways. I should add the Pico heat zone is very long, so we will see how that works out in the real world. Yvan: Unfortunately, life has been getting in the way and my projects haveby RP Iron Man - General
QuoteYvan Isn't it rather evident why the Prusa design is so prone to jams? Seems rather apparent to me...? That is definitely the case with the Prusanozzle MKI due to the very long and uncontrolled transition zone. However, Prusa added a heat sink to the MKII design and reduced the transition zone significantly, so from the theoretical perspective I would assume that it would work fairly reliabby RP Iron Man - General
Yvan: Yeah. Their precision smooth rod in insanely expensive but everything else in reasonably priced... I forgot to mention that, sorry. They are a good supplier if you need any kind of metric nuts/bolts/threaded rod etc... but unfortunately not smooth rod. Ericby RP Iron Man - General
Thanks for the info guys Despite the fact that Canada supposedly uses the metric system, it can be very difficult to find a comprehensive supplier of metric hardware You can find odds and ends at the brand name hardware stores but unfortunately these stores are not a one-stop-shop for all of your RepRap metric needs. Back when I was looking for a good metric hardware supplier I stumbled acrossby RP Iron Man - General
Yeah, being able to see what is going on in the transition zone would be very interesting. The hot end would also look really cool while it's printing Be sure to keep us informed of your progress! Ericby RP Iron Man - General
Hey George, Your design is very interesting and I encourage you to experiment with it! However, before you get your hopes up, I would like to mention that you may have problems with the plastic sticking to the inside of the glass tube. As we know, PLA sticks very well to heated glass (many people print PLA directly onto heated glass), so I imagine that you would get frequent jams printing withby RP Iron Man - General
It's best for all thermoplastics to be printed with chamber temperatures just below their glass transition temp (Tg), because all warping occurs when the plastic is being cooled from Tg to ambient temperatures. Tg of ABS is about 105C and Tg of PLA is about 60C. I have heard that once you get the chamber temp to about 80C, ABS warping is completely undetectable. Since PLA has such a low Tg, mostby RP Iron Man - General
I don't own a qubd extruder myself, but I have heard that they can't print PLA very reliably due to the lack of internal polishing in the Stainless Steel heat break. I imagine that the qubd extruder design would be okay for printing ABS as it is much less likely to jam when compared to PLA. Most all-metal hot end designs can print ABS easily even without a polished "transition-zone" within theby RP Iron Man - General
@A2 The 60 degree angle leading up to the orifice is to minimize the amount of heat that is radiated to the part (which causes the plastic to curl up). In addition, this 60 degree angle decreases the chance of the nozzle catching on any plastic that has curled up. The J-Head nozzle has a 30 degree angle and it has problems with edges curling, getting stuck to the nozzle, and being dragged aroundby RP Iron Man - General
QuoteA2 EDM = Electro Discharge Machining. You can get a mirro finish with an EDM machine. But I'm not sure if it's possible in a deep small ID pocket. I've only seen it done in shallow pockets. Can you post a cross section of your extruder? What did the machine shop quote you for the surface finish in RMS? 4 RMS is a mirror surface. What SS are you using, did the machine shop make any recommenby RP Iron Man - General
QuoteA2 Electropolishing: Electropolishing the ID of a SS filament guides might work if you can direct a stream into the orifice. You might be able to do this at home with a battery charger, and water pump. I am currently prototyping an all-metal hot end design that features an electropolished 1-piece Stainless Steel nozzle/heat break, so I can tell you that this is definitely possible. This isby RP Iron Man - General
QuoteJGR it's on the todo list, Ok, be sure to post your results here when you do get around to it. If coating the filament in Teflon works effectively enough, the manufacturing of all-metal hot ends would be made much simpler Ericby RP Iron Man - General