Quotefauxsoul Aaaaand now that I have the dimensions figured out I realized I don't have enough 2020, so this will be put on hold for a while, but hey, at least I will have more time to deal with making the models though. aw doh! well, a positive spinby lkcl - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Quotefauxsoul The whole moving Y axis really seems non-ideal in the first place, but I'm working with what I have here for now. it seems... odd, doesn't it? however the alternatives are that something else has to move in both X and Y. whether it be the printhead or the printbed. i've seen both. if you move the printhead you're looking at ultimaker-2 style, H-Bot, CoreXY and blah-blah-blahby lkcl - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Quotefauxsoul Was thinking something like this. I don't mean to sidetrack your thread here but this printer is pretty close to what I want. not a problem. hmmm... in the proposed design diagram, i would find it hard to design an x-carriage that fitted say 2 horizontal rods separated by 70mm in between them, plus say 15mm extra each side for the LM8UU bearings plus a bit extra for separation.by lkcl - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Quotefauxsoul I was thinking a horizontal layout for the x as well I'm just not sure how I am going to mount my extruder setup. well, whenever i've started to think about a design, i make sure that i 3D model it - in as much detail as i can stand. i grab STL files if there are pre-existing components and drop those in (saves time implementing them.... or worse, making mistakes in their length.by lkcl - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Quotefauxsoul No idea, I'm just about to throw my duplicator i3 onto a 2020 frame and I liked how it has 2 beams in the z axis it seems like the best design for sturdiness aside from just building a box (which seems excessive on an i3 style printer). Just need to go about designing the parts around the existing hardware I have and was looking for inspiration. huh, cool. well you'd be interestby lkcl - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Quotefauxsoul Does this printer model have a name? ha, no, not yet: i need to set up a reprap page for it. any suggestions? nothing based on a pre-existing (commercial / trademarked) name, nothing for example with the phrase "i3" in it....by lkcl - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Quotewrapperz Is was is being tested and discussed here is the same flsun as shown here: If so could someone link me a working, tested configure.h and indicate what version of Marlin it applies to ( apparently they have not maintained compatibility and older configs no longer work with more recent Marlin versions. ) Shame that the chinese supplier can't manage to provide something which worby lkcl - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Quotenumber40fan For that money, I'd jump to a Tevo Tornado. Can be had for $309. plus shipping? we have quite a tale of nightmare parts to tell on this one - i think the only original parts left is the metal frame and the NEMA17s! there's a bit about it here have to go, packing up to cross the border where maybe we will not get stopped for carrying "cargo" into china...by lkcl - Extruded Aluminum Frames
okaay so the next one, much better (this is with an atmega2560) a few quirks, the capacitors and on-board (ATMEGA) pullups work well but previously i was used to no pullups, had to work out the endstop configuration: all good now. 4 of the steppers are working great, i had messed up with the names of the NETs so had X and E0 DIR and STEP reversed... doh. 4 large MOSFETs all good: reduced the inby lkcl - RAMPS Electronics
Quoteobelisk79 Can't make an omelette without cracking a few eggs right? *sigh*... apparently not i may be able to recover some of the components from this board, but after the experience of messing up due to re-soldering some of the connectors i'm inclined to just chuck this board and start completely again. nggggh! 2 days gone! and i'm leaving for SZMF on the 5th!by lkcl - RAMPS Electronics
i really should have paid attention to the fact that one of the 0.1uF capacitors went up in smoke and produced a small flame. the one that i put on the main power rail also decided to go up, this time because it had the full power of the PSU (350 watts) behind it, and it was also right next to the fuse, the fuse plastic caught fire and it's badly damaged the copper tracks on *both* sides of theby lkcl - RAMPS Electronics
ok so SN74LV125 for the MOSFETs is working. managed to smoke an 0805 capacitor.....by lkcl - RAMPS Electronics
ok so that's all the ICs (except the EEPROM, why the heck is that needed anyway??), resistors and capacitors, plus the inductors, MicroSD, power connector and fuses. if i put on the 3-pin 5/3.3->VCC connector on i can test it powering up an arduino, then try some things like switch on MOSFETs (without MOSFETs) and confirm that the SN74LVC125 is working, and so on. i've made absolute minimalby lkcl - RAMPS Electronics
Quoteobelisk79 That is a lot of holes. Wow! It's one thing to see in the files, another entirely too see them on a physical board. tell me about it. it's why i want to split this board into upright daughtercards (like the old PCs from the 1970s / 80s), even for the MOSFETs. that way people can pick 2-MOSFET boards, 3 MOSFET boards, different power levels etc. so, i'll put 3 headers on the lefby lkcl - RAMPS Electronics
new revision board arrived, this one with a THOUSAND drill-holes in it. more hole than board. makes swiss cheese look tame by comparison.by lkcl - RAMPS Electronics
Quotedc42 The load won't get anything like 1A in normal use. More like 200mA or possibly 250mA. it's for the peripherals as well, so it's including powering an LCD, the MicroSD card, W5500 SPI Ethernet, steppers and so on. on the RD3D, power is routed as follows: * 12-35v DCIN -> * 8v MC7808 -> * Arduino 5V/3.3v -> * 5V/3.3v back up to RD3D -> path 1: * RD3D power-jumper selectorby lkcl - RAMPS Electronics
Quotedc42 Busk converters are tricky things to get right, so unless you have the right experience, I advise against designing on one-board. yehh i've done them before: i just wasn't expecting to use one here. as it's something that can be optional (7-12VC In to the Arduino) i'm considering also making it optional. that has the advantage of using something off-the-shelf or doing several iteratiby lkcl - RAMPS Electronics
wanted to select the higher-frequency duck (quack) converters. top of that list is the AOZ1283 and AOZ1284. datasheet however is a leeetle obscure. taobao pricing on AOZ1284PI: around the USD $0.30 mark. recommended inductor: 22uH, peak efficiency 95%, VIN up to 36v which matches with the various MOSFETs and also being able to run A4988 (etc) steppers @ up to 365 as well. i saw you use theby lkcl - RAMPS Electronics
Quotexebbmw as dc42 mentioned Quotedc42 Does the Arduino Due provide sufficient 5V current without overheating the voltage regulator if you feed 24V to the power input pin (if it can accept 24V) and you are powering a 12864 LCD from +5V? I very much doubt it. One of the well-known flaws of Arduino/RAMPS is that if you use a 12864 LCD, the voltage regulator on the Arduino mega is likely to overheby lkcl - RAMPS Electronics
Quotefrankvdh This kind of voltage regulation sounds appalling to me. For 65c you can buy a DC-DC buck converter that is claimed to be 97% efficient. Worst case, you could have a couple of pins on your board to accept 5V, perhaps placed the right distance apart for the buck converter to be soldered directly to them. Best case, build the buck converter circuit into the board itself. Or am I missby lkcl - RAMPS Electronics
Quotedc42 Does the Arduino Due provide sufficient 5V current without overheating the voltage regulator if you feed 24V to the power input pin (if it can accept 24V) and you are powering a 12864 LCD from +5V? I very much doubt it. One of the well-known flaws of Arduino/RAMPS is that if you use a 12864 LCD, the voltage regulator on the Arduino mega is likely to overheat even at 12V input. when talby lkcl - RAMPS Electronics
Quotexebbmw Quotelkcl Most of the LCD controllers i've seen - actually most arduino-style shields - use 3.3v ICs that are 5V tolerant. I agree with you here, but my understanding is that a graphic controller would absorb a lot of current comparing with how much the Arduino Due might deliver ok so as promised i wrote up the design considerations for power provision: in short, the due providesby lkcl - RAMPS Electronics
QuoteTraumflug Quotelkcl ... and people still went ahead with sending them to factories, without any kind of announcement or communication along the lines of "i'm going to send these to a factory, is that a good idea yes or no?"? First of all, the point of a Gen7 is that one needs no factory. Interested people can download the design and make PCB and controller on their kitchen table. great! Quby lkcl - RAMPS Electronics
QuoteTraumflug Quotelkcl how exactly did you publish them? 'git push' of the design files, no Gerbers. ... and people still went ahead with sending them to factories, without any kind of announcement or communication along the lines of "i'm going to send these to a factory, is that a good idea yes or no?"? yeehhh they get what they deserve: not your problem if people don't communicate. the trby lkcl - RAMPS Electronics
QuoteTraumflug Quotelkcl not publishing what you're doing also makes your life incredibly difficult. Yes and No. With Gen7 I initially published work in progress, too. The result was, people etched and soldered PCBs from this half-finished work and found it not working (as expected). Asking to read instructions is asking too much from average users :-) how exactly did you publish them? did youby lkcl - RAMPS Electronics
Quotexebbmw Quotelkcl RD3D not RAMPS 1.4.2 Sorry, my mistake here Quotelkcl Most of the LCD controllers i've seen - actually most arduino-style shields - use 3.3v ICs that are 5V tolerant. I agree with you here, but my understanding is that a graphic controller would absorb a lot of current comparing with how much the Arduino Due might deliver look carefully at the schematic of RD3D. which -by lkcl - RAMPS Electronics
Quotexebbmw Thanks, I just realized I am already using that library. I am designing a 5 steppers board using Polulu drivers for Arduino Due, nice! have you published the schematics and pcb file so that i (and anyone else) can take a look? Quote but I did not checked before that library. yeh i didn't know it was there, i encountered it by accident when i found the stepstick (A4988) eagle fileby lkcl - RAMPS Electronics
Quotexebbmw Can you point me to an eagle library for A4982? In the allegro library i did not find one for tssop24 package... for some strange reason i actually seem to have one, and i don't _actually_ know where it originated! you can of course use the eagle exp-lbrs ULP to grab it. i've done that for you, it turns out to be something called RepRapjr.lbr, i remember grabbing a copy of that froby lkcl - RAMPS Electronics
Quotexebbmw @lkcl: why not use A5984 stepper driver for the dual stepper board? It can be configured up to 32 micro steps and it less noisier than A4982. In my opinion it is a better choice but depends on the actual cost for the chip (although at Digikey A5984 is less expensive than A4982). ... because i'm a fool that's rushed ahead with that particular board design without consulting anyone herby lkcl - RAMPS Electronics
QuoteDust Some mounting holes might be nice.... cant see any oh! on the A4982-DSB? yes sorry that's an out-of-date picture, already. funny. the z-height sensor, i figured it's so tiny that you just create a holder / clip around the 2x4 connector, instead. it's not quite the same size as the TMC2660-DSB, that one's quite a bit bigger. the STM8S programming / UART interface is in the middby lkcl - RAMPS Electronics